Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Engines with no spark or intermittent spark on one bank can be caused by a faulty stator. Nestled in with the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base).
A Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and rotational speeds of the crankshaft. Without the crank sensor, the engine control module (ECM) wouldn`t know when to fire the fuel injectors and ignite the spark plugs.

stalling: a failing ignition module can occasionally prevent the engine from getting spark, causing it to stall. 4. car won`t start: an engine needs four basic things to run: fuel,compression, spark and exhaust. if the ignition module has failed completely, the vehicle won`t get spark and won`t start.
Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.
If no spark appears, check for broken wires, shorts, grounds or a defective stop switch. Once you have confirmed that the stop switch is working, reconnect the spark plug lead.
If the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or otherwise fails while the engine is operating it will cut off power to the fuel pump and ignition system. This will cause the vehicle to immediately stall due to fuel and spark being cut off.
The problem is either a bad distributor pickup (on engines with a distributor), a stripped distributor drive gear (common with plastic gears), a bad crankshaft position sensor (on engines without a distributor), a wiring fault (broken or shorted wire, or a loose or corroded wiring connector).
Common signs include engine performance issues, engine stalling, the car not starting, and the engine not sparking.
To check if the ignition module is getting voltage, set the multimeter to AC voltage (VAC) reading and check for voltage at the thermostat input or 24VAC input to the Ignition Control Module. You should get a reading of 24VAC with respect to common or ground.
The relationship between crank and cam timing events can also cause no spark, especially on Chrysler products. On these vehicles, the PCM won`t trigger the ignition coil if the cam and crank are out-of-sync.
The least likely cause of a weak spark is a battery voltage of 12.2 Volts. Even though the battery voltage is less than normal, it should be enough to allow the ignition coil (s) to become fully saturated and provide the correct spark to the spark plugs.
If the spark is a big fat one, then the condenser is bad and needs to be replaced. 2. If no spark is visible, check to see if the points or wires are shorting to ground either at the points or at the primary terminal screw going through the housing.
Although “diagnosable engine management systems” are installed in today`s vehicles, a multimeter or oscilloscope must be used when checking ignition systems.
The ignition relay is one of the most important electronic relays found on modern vehicles. It is usually located in the fuse and relay panel beneath the hood, and is responsible for providing power to the vehicle`s ignition system, and some of the fuel system`s components.
Spark issues are the most common symptoms of failing stators, known as “Misfiring.” If you haven`t already known, stators are directly responsible for producing the required spark for your spark plug. Once they malfunction, the motorbike will receive insufficient – or worse, zero – sparks.
A manifold vacuum and/or barometric pressure, throttle position, engine RPM, coolant temperature, and vehicle speed sensor all modify the timing program.
The starter relay is one of the most critical and often overlooked components in any vehicle ignition system. The starting relay is a small electrical device located in the starting circuit of a large current motor. The relay is just a remote control switch that regulates the current in a high-current circuit.
If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
The starter will not have any impact on the engine`s ability to produce spark. There are a number of issues that may cause an ignition system to not produce spark. A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (on engines that do not have a distributor), or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.
Typically located on the firewall, the ESC module may be located any number of places in the engine bay depending on application.
Modern electronic ignition systems operate using the same principle of charging an electric circuit, however they use a capacitor charged to around 400 volts, rather than using the induction charging of an ignition coil.
How do I test a coil with a multimeter? To test a coil with a multimeter, you will need to connect the leads of the multimeter to the coil terminals. Once the connection is made, you can set the multimeter to the resistance mode and measure the resistance of the coil.
Distributorless Ignition System

The third type of ignition system is the distributorless ignition. The spark plugs are fired directly from the coils. Spark plug timing is controlled by an ignition module and the engine computer.

Turn on the test power cord switch to power the ignitor. Check for spark across the ignitor clip ends (see Figure 1). If spark occurs, proceed the secondary coil test below. If spark does not jump the gap, or if the spark jumps intermittently, ignitor is defective and should be replaced.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Yamaha vino 50 cc scooter
ANSWER : Hello, check to see if it is a switch (pull hand brake back when starting

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Spark plug wire boot grounding out on coil, 96 outback 2.5 automatic, just put new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and new coil on. ran great for two weeks, now spark is jumping out of boot at coil on one wire, put old coil back on and still does it in the same spot. replaced wires again, and still does it in the same spot. seems to do it only under a load. Is my new spark plug on that cylinder bad? Does the coil need some insulation under it? It is the coil that sits right on top of the motor. Any ideas? thanks.
ANSWER : Sparks are high voltage, and will always follow the path of least resistance. If you can visibly see a spark (whether in a lighted area, or in the dark), that means either that a plug wire (or coil wire) is open (non conductive), or your have a carbon track on the surface where the spark can be seen, but most likely you have BOTH problems!

If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of each wire involved, particularly spark plug wires … which means you must be able to connect to both ends of each wire at the same, and hopefully, FLEX those wires, to be sure they don’t have a break inside that is intermittent (comes and goes)!

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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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Turned poulan pro 42 inch 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton mower off after 1hr of use to move a board I was about to mow over. Tried to restart it but it just backfires. Removed spark plug and it looked fouled. Cleaned it up but when looking at spark it is orange in color. Bought new spark plug and now get white spark. Installed new spark plug and it still backfires. Plug is wet with gas. Any suggestions?
ANSWER : Check the valve clearances and especially the inlet valve to make sure that it is not riding (staying slightly open) B&S are notorious for valve problems as most of their motors do not have a valve adjustment on them, the valves stems have to be filed/ground down to get a clearance. Somewhere between 0.010 to 0.015″ is near enough for the inlets and about 0.005″ more for the exhaust. It is not critical.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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No spark to spark plug
ANSWER : Try checking the coil

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