Thompson Center Omega Z5 Rifle – Blue/Black

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I get my parts from , They have schematics for many diferent guns.

Hope this helps, Matt

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There are three basic components used when loading a muzzleloading rifle. In loading order they are powder, patch, and ball. If you are shooting a muzzleloading shotgun the components are powder, cardboard over powder patch, lubed fiber compression wad, shot, and cardboard wad to retain shot.
NEVER blow down the barrel of a muzzleloader. NEVER pour powder directly from the flask or horn into the barrel. NEVER use smokeless powder in a muzzleloader unless specifically designed for smokeless powder (see manufacturer`s recommendations). black powder have an effective range out to 100 yards.
You should be facing the underside of the barrel. The muzzle should be pointed upward and away from your body. Never work directly over the muzzle. Determine if the gun is already loaded by checking the barrel with a marked ramrod, which has an “unloaded” or empty marking.
The “short starter” is used to force the bullet the first one fourth inch. Then, the “long starter” gets it further down the muzzle. The ramrod is then used to push the bullet down to the bottom of the barrel.
The three basic parts of the muzzleloader are the lock, stock, and barrel. Other parts included on some guns are a set trigger, a sight, and a safety.
All modern firearms have three basic groups of parts: action, stock, and barrel.
Thoroughly clean a muzzleloader after each shooting session. Black powder residue can damage the barrel if left overnight. Clean the gun`s lock periodically. Normally it`s held in place by one or two bolts.
Unload a muzzleloader by discharging it into a suitable backstop. Do not fire into the air or into the ground at your feet in case the projectile ricochets. Use a CO2 discharger to clear the barrel. Percussion Lock Muzzleloader: Slip the discharger over the nipple.
Loading or charging a muzzleloading firearm presents some special concerns because it requires the muzzle to be pointed upward. For rifles, position the butt on the ground between your feet. You should be facing the underside of the barrel. The muzzle should be pointed upward and away from your body.
Some muzzleloaders have a set trigger that allows the shooter to advance the trigger and set it so that very little additional pressure is required to fire.
Hammer Forged – A mandrel the length of the barrel is inserted into the bore and a large hammer tool forces the rifling into the barrel. This process actually polishes the barrel in the process, resulting in improved quality.
Rifling: The spiral grooves cut or swaged inside a gun barrel that gives the bullet a spinning motion.
The action is usually held closed by a single locking lug, usually below the barrel in a single barrelled gun or between the barrels of a double barreled gun. The single lug must carry all of the force of firing the cartridge.
Modern muzzleloading firearms range from reproductions of sidelock, flintlock and percussion long guns, to in-line rifles that use modern inventions such as a closed breech, sealed primer and fast rifling to allow for considerable accuracy at long ranges.
Round Ball: This is the traditional projectile used in the muzzleloader. Rapid loss of velocity and energy reduces their efficiency compared to the bullet. Hunting success relies more heavily on skills and proximity to the game. These projectiles require the use of lubricated cloth patches, which slows down loading.
The more common parts include the barrel, magazine, hand guard, pistol grip, trigger and the trigger guard. All firearms have a receiver, which is comprised of springs, levers and pistons. It is important to differentiate between the key components of a firearm, and the other parts and components.
Slower velocity reduces the muzzleloader`s effective hunting range to 100 yards or less, while conventional rifles can take game at 200 or more yards. The muzzleloader fires large, heavy projectiles that have a reduced trajectory, making shot placement more difficult.
Modern muzzleloader rifles perform best with modern bullets. For hunting very large and dangerous game, especially at close range, heavy conical lead bullets are probably what you need. But for deer and elk, the modern . 45 cal bullets and sabots are the way to go.
Most modern muzzleloaders should be capable of shooting one inch groups at 100 yards even if every shooter is not.
50, or . 54 caliber muzzleloader firing 170-380 grain bullets at 1,500-2,000 feet per second. Those loads are extremely effective on game like deer and black bear. They`ll also work quite well on really big game like elk and moose.
Black powder is the only type of powder that should be used in muzzleloaders. However, synthetic substitutes, such as Pyrodex®, also can be used. Be sure to use only approved substitutes.
Most muzzleloading firearms should be sighted in so that at 50 yards the projectile is hitting around 2½ to 3 inches above the point of aim. Small-game hunters have a smaller vital area and must sight in more precisely. To sight in the firearm, move the rear sight in the direction you want to move your shots.
Unload a muzzleloader by discharging it into a suitable backstop. Do not fire into the air or into the ground at your feet in case the projectile ricochets. Use a CO2 discharger to clear the barrel.
Aside from the muzzleloader itself, bullets, powder, and primers, you`ll need a couple of other things to get started. First, you`ll need a good cleaning kit. Muzzleloaders get extremely dirty when you shoot them, so you really need to clean them thoroughly afterward.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

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I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

Missing left side saftey and attachment screw
ANSWER : Try Numrich gun parts america. They have parts for virtually any firearm you can find. Type in Numrich into the web. Allan 393

Yes, please advise where I can get replacement parts for our Stanley Cup Regent Air Hockey Table. I emailed them and Hedstrom has taken over Regent Sports ( Gone out of business ) and has only limited parts. Of course they don’t have the part I need, which is a Goal Sensor. It’s part #22 on model # 50457, any help would be Greatly Appreciated.
ANSWER : Were you able to find this part? I need one as well. It looks simple enough to just make a new one with a few parts from Radio Shack.

Help! Just bought a Remington 30 06 for my grandson that has a Bushnell Sportview U4124 4-12power scope mounted on it. I would like to sight it in at 100 yards using a 180 grain shell but I don’t have the owners manual and I don’t understand an on line explanation that I found. This is the on line message: “You’ll see two horizontal crosshairs, put the top one on the animals back then zoom in until the bottom one is on his stomach. Look at the numbers on the zoom dial there should be three lines they are D – deer, E – elk and A – antelope. The numbers are the distance to the game, you then turn the external elevation knob or turret to the matching distance and shoot dead on. No need to hold over for bullet drop. The sad part will be if you didn’t get the other turrets that would have come with it as they are calibrated to different calibers and bullet weights”
I don’t understand how to set the elevation knob to 100yards when its lowest shown number is 150. If I need other turrets how or where can I get them? Thanks, a frustrated grandfather.
ANSWER : You can contact the Remington directly who will ship you a free users manual. Here is the company’s Contact Us details:

You may also find the required answer in the official help center. It covers almost every fields. Here is the link:

Does the TC Omega have a problem using 150 grains of blackpowder or its’ eqivalent?
ANSWER : Hello jps…. No problem at all with 150 grains. In fact, that is the spec. max. amount.

The Thompson Center Omega Z5 was designed with simplicity in mind. It is easy to shoot and easy to clean. The breech seals the 209 primer from rain and snow and is easy to open with a simple forward motion of the lever on the trigger guard. The sealed breech plug design also prevents the crushing of Pyrodex pellets. The Z5 can handle a powder load of up to 150 grains for more power or longer range shooting.Technical InformationNotes:
Exposed hammer
Sling swivel studs
Rubber recoil pad
Fiber optic sights
Blue chrome-moly steel with a silver weatherguard finish

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