Why is my motor missing on my gas golf cart after I power washed the engine?

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

LX 188. Engine suddenly dies. The fluel in the bowel of the fuel filter is empty. If I crank the engine the filter becomes dry and is collapsing some but the engine does not start. When I remove the supply line from the fuel pump to the carberator and crank the enginge there is a strong stream of gas being pumped out. I tap on the carberator ??? is the float is hung not allowing fuel to enter. Cranking the engine with the line off refills the bowel of the gas filter. Reattache line to the carberator===engine starts. Ran perfect for 20minutes then suddenly died. Repeated all the above and engine again started. What to do to fix this? Thanks

I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.

My engine revs on high by itself and runs rough

I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.

Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again

I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?