When putting bike in drive it goes but very slow and has like barly any power

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

On 2006 EZGO electric golf cart, 36 volt. Cart intermittently goes very very slow. Sometimes, after backing up then will go normal 19 MPH. Turn it off and the goes slow again. facts – batteries tested and show 6 volts each and full set tests at 36v. Cart never had this problem until ran out of power and was towed about 1000 yards. I was told by by the person towing the cart that he put the control switch from Run to Tow. Any ideas what the problem could be?

My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!

My 2005 predator is making a weird grinding noise. It runs fine and goes into every gear good. It’s a little slow on start up. And just when i let off the gas it makes a noise like a chain hitting the case of the engine any help? Also sometimes when driving it makes a noise like a chain is slapping something.

How to set up bars under slideouts of a popup camper

Mule 610 will not start. Was running fine, plowing snow and it starting acting like it was running out of gas and stalled. Put gas in put it won’t start and acts like it is not getting gas. Could the gas line have frozen due to the depth of the snow?

Torpedo FN-10195 Magnetic exercise bike ERROR E1