What would drain the battery when the power is off

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?

We have a pop-up with the sink that folds down. We need to replace the sink drain from the sink to outside, but the only flex drain hoses that I can find have a hose only 26 inches long. I know that will not be long enough to go from the sink to the outside of the camper.

Do you know if any place I can go to get a sink drain system with a longer hose. The contraption (I don’t know what it is called) at the base of the sink drain has rusted off so that the swivel part of the drain system is gone. We currently have a garden hose connected to the pipe coming directly from the drain, but when we close the camper, it pops off.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks

Michele

Water build up in the starter & Reqoil case of my Polaris ATV

I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?

My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c

I would like to hook up a 12 volt battery to the trailer. In the cupboard below the propane stove is a plug with white, black and orange wire to it.
In the AC power converter cupboard I have a plug with a black and orange wire. How do I hook up the battery so that it charges and runs the fridge while I’m driving, and lets me use the lights with the fridge on propane while I’m camping?