Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
I recommend West systems resins. You can mold,repair and even color this material into any desired shape for any repair job. This material is very strong and durable. There are also additives that can be added to the resin, to make it even stronger for high stressed areas.
Click here; to read and get information about this product.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Two-Part Polyurethane Paint: The hard and glossy finish of this paint is extremely sturdy. It`s best suited for fiberglass and may crack if painted onto other materials. Multiple layers of its thin coats need to be applied by either rolling and tipping or spraying.
You can apply car wax to a boat, but it doesn`t last as long nor does it offer as much protection as boat wax, and requires more frequent re-application. Fun Fact: Because boats and RV`s are often constructed from similar materials, some boat wax is marketed as boat/RV wax.
Vinegar can remove oxidation from fiberglass. However, it`s typically only successful with removing minor occurrences of it. It`s not very effective against tough and severe instances of oxidation. It also won`t provide any extended protection for the surface and would likely need to be paired with a wax.
Let the baking soda remain on the tar for 10 minutes or so, and then rub and rinse with clean water. Older fiberglass boats may look dusty from oxidation. Sometimes you can renew the look of the fiber- glass by mixing about three or four tablespoons of vinegar with a gallon of water and applying it to your boat.
White vinegar is acidic enough to dissolve mold, mildew, grease and buildup—but it won`t hurt the fiberglass. Good for stains, smells and schmears.
If you`ve come into contact with fiberglass shards or you have a rash and itchiness after you were exposed to fiberglass, don`t rub or scratch the area. Immediately wash the exposed area with warm water and mild soap and wipe with a washcloth to remove the glass fibers from your skin.
The resin component is either polyester resin or epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is stronger. If the repair area is large and is in a high-stress part of a boat below the waterline, epoxy resin is the superior choice. This is because it has excellent bonding properties to an existing surface and is strong.
Extensive Cleaning

For really tough jobs, it`s best to use muriatic acid (or another acid-based cleaner) and a strong hose to clean your boat hull. Use the hose to thoroughly rinse your boat hull, making sure to remove any barnacles, weeds, or other slime. Combine the muriatic acid and water.

All-purpose cleaner

This simple mixture can be used for general cleaning purposes on your boat. In a bucket, add one cup of white vinegar to a gallon of water. Use a scrub brush or cloth to clean surfaces of dirt and grime. Rinse area with water.

Sand the boat.

Use an 80-grit sandpaper to sand the boat`s surface. Make sure that all the old paint is removed. If you are using Durabak boat paint, stick to roughing up the fiberglass surface with a 40-grit sandpaper instead. On the areas with epoxy, use a 36-grit and be a little more aggressive.

Ablative bottom paint is the most popular type; it wears away over time, which allows it to continually renew itself. This makes ablative bottom paint ideal for boats that are used frequently.
Usually, 80- to 100-grit sandpaper is best for the job. You`ll also need a sanding materials, such as Mirka GoldFlex Soft Foam Pads, that work well on irregular surfaces and can get to hard-to-reach places.
Sand the fiberglass using a coarse-grit sandpaper.

For the first sanding pass, use either 80 or 100-grit sandpaper. Mount the sandpaper to a long sanding board for large, flat components. For smaller areas or areas with intricate curves, a rubber sanding block works well to follow the shape of the piece.

Lightly wet-sanding the surface with 60 or 80 grit wet-and-dry paper wrapped over a sanding block will provide a key and help the antifoul to adhere well. Dry-sanding is not recommended because of the dust it puts in the air which can be inhaled, or get onto other boats` hulls and decks.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I own a 1998, 25hp Mercury short shaft tiller outboard engine. It is on a 15′-10″ Mirrow Craft semi V aluminum flat bottom boat. When I am running it, the steering handle pulls to the left making the boat turn right. I have to concentrate on keeping the handle steady when the motor is at full throttle. If I would let up the tension with my arm the motor pulls the boat to the right. I need to balance the motor so it runs without steering tension. How do I adjust it?
ANSWER : You have a tiller tab on the foot of your outboard, It has a mark on it, and should be cocked to one side, take note of the mark, and turn it one way or another, just keep notes on what you do, then try it. See what happens, you should be able to compensate for the over steer by moving this tab. Hope this helps.

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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Motor not pushing boat after two thousand rpm’s
ANSWER : The prop is cavitating. The outdrive is not trimed under enough or the prop is damaged (providing it is the correct prop.)

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What can i use to refurbish a fiberglass bottom in my boat
ANSWER : I recommend West systems resins. You can mold,repair and even color this material into any desired shape for any repair job. This material is very strong and durable. There are also additives that can be added to the resin, to make it even stronger for high stressed areas.
Click here; to read and get information about this product.

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How do I turn on the speedometer on a yamaha 212x boat? I’m using the boat but the speedometer isn’t working…
ANSWER : I have the same problem on mine. Did you ever find a solution ?

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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Hiya I have a fujifilm e-900 I have used the camera less than 20 times. The last time I used it I had no problems at all. I had left it sitting in it’s case for 6 months. Now when I try and us it I get the hand with lightning bolt on the lcd. Which I assume means the battery encasement is open. It isn’t open. The camera turns on no problem then when I try and use any function it shuts down. How do I fix this?
ANSWER : The hand with the lightning bolt icon usually means the camera is telling you that there is not enough light and you need to pop the flash up before you take a picture.
If you haven’t used the camera for a while have you tried fresh batteries or charged the 2 re chargeable AA’s that came with the camera?

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