Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
It would be most helpful to know the make and model of the rifle, or even have a picture of it.

I assume you mean the magazine tube cap at the forward end of the rifle nearest the muzzle.

Most modern rifles have a simple screw-off or push in and turn type release mechanism for the cap.
This is to allow relatively quick manual reloading and no special tools are normally required.

You may want to apply some penetrating oil to the joint area around the cap in the event that it is just slightly seized by mild corrosion. Allow the penetrating oil to sit for up to 12 hours and apply repeatedly if necessary. Try again to remove the cap by turning or pushing down and turning after the oil has been allowed to penetrate.

If the rifle is much older there may be some additional steps required.

Obviously ensure the weapon is unloaded and rendered safe before undertaking any maintenance procedures on it.

Please comment back on this page and provide some kind of additional detail concerning the rifle, even if it is just a website with a picture of it, and I will be able to provide you with greater assistance. Make / Model Number / Action Type / Calibre would be ideal.

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Thank you.


How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

It may take several years for some hunters to shoot through 300 rounds or for their rifle`s accuracy to begin to degrade. If that`s the case, he recommends cleaning the barrel at least once a year to avoid carbon corrosion.
A good rule of thumb is to clean your firearm after around 250 rounds, though you`ll want to keep an eye on debris build-up. The more build-up, the more risk of wear and corrosion. If you notice build-up happening, you may want to clean your firearm more frequently.
Clean the Barrel and Chamber

Place a cleaning patch dipped in bore solvent on the tip of your cleaning rod. Next, push the cleaning patch through the barrel and out the other side and saturate the chamber and bore surface. Avoid pulling it back through – this will redeposit dirt and gunk back into the bore.

Clean Your Oft-Used Guns After Every Use

As a general rule, it`s a good idea to clean your gun after every trip to the shooting range. Defensive firearms that don`t get used very frequently should also be cleaned on occasion. Try to give them a deep clean and inspection about once a month.

Lay the barrel on its side and thoroughly spray rinse the interior. Using a long-handled brush, scrub the interior. A mixture of vinegar and water, or a light bleach and water solution, will work as a cleaner. Rinse the barrel again and let it air dry.
While cleaning the outside of a gun is routine knowledge among gun owners, you`re not alone in asking, “Should I oil the inside of my gun barrel?” The answer is, yes, but make sure you`re doing it correctly.
Ballistol cleans and removes all types of bore fouling. Cleaning with Ballistol will save you time, minimize the need for brushing, and also form a protective film on your firearm. Due to its slight alkalinity, Ballistol neutralizes and dissolves black powder and corrosive ammo residue.
It needs to be cleaned and lubed prior to shooting. Also, most manufacturers have specific instructions for breaking in the firearm. It takes time for a new gun to “wear in” all the parts so they fit correctly; new guns (and magazines) will be stiff and the gun won`t be at its best until it`s broken in.
– Even with proper storage, moisture and dust can find their way to your firearms and lead to rust formation. – Clean and lubricate your stored firearms twice a year.
The importance of keeping dirt and disease at bay was recognised by the army authorities and by the men themselves. Keeping clean could help maintain morale and it was crucial that troops stayed healthy so they could keep fighting.
Buildup of powder residue and moisture can eventually cause the gun to jam, or lose accuracy, reliability and cyclic rate (rounds per minute it can fire). That`s why soldiers have to clean their rifles every so often, generally with a wet lubricant known as CLP (cleaner, lubricant and preservative).
The biggest thing, is that you keep the gun well lubricated, no matter what it is. An AR15 can go hundreds to thousands of rounds without a cleaning, provided that it is well-lubricated.
If you have an AR-15 pistol, it is as simple as pulling the brace off the buffer tube. The ATF has confirmed that you are legally allowed to leave the 6-position rifle buffer tube on the gun, however you need to be careful of constructive possession (see below for full details).
Balsamic Vinegar, a product of long tradition, is famous all over the world for its aging in wooden barrels.
For 55 gallons of water, add 4 1/2 teaspoons unscented liquid chlorine bleach (3 tablespoons if water is cloudy)
Mix one part salt and four parts rubbing alcohol and rub the mixture hard on the stain until it lifts away. After the grease is gone and your solution dries, vacuum up the excess salt and use a damp cloth to wipe away any marks left behind.
Break-Free CLP is the standard for gun oils. It helps you clean your firearm, it lubricates your gun, and it helps to protect it from rust. It is in use by militaries and police departments all over the world.
You need to use both gun cleaner and oil to improve your gun`s performance and longevity. Remember, never lubricate your gun without cleaning it first. If you`re looking for high-quality gun maintenance products and tools, look no further.
If you forget to re-apply oil and leave the solvent residue, there`s a chance parts of your gun will corrode. Once you notice rusting, it may be too late to fix it, but proper lubrication and storage will prevent it from forming.

Ballistol makes the list as another time-honored favorite. Its name is German for ballistic oil, and it`s been a trusted gun oil of the German military for generations. It`s great for cleaning and lubing your gun, and it also provides superior rust protection.

22LR ammunition doesn`t have a specific shelf life. It`s not time that degrades the ammunition but rather how it is stored. As long as the rounds are stored correctly, it will last. This is the same for any calibre ammunition as shelf life does not differ depending on the bullet size.
The most significant disadvantage of . 22LR for self-defense is the rimfire system. Rimfire rounds tend to be less reliable than centerfire rounds. A round failing to ignite can be a significant issue.
Excess oil makes the chamber smaller, preventing the brass from gripping the chamber walls as normal and increasing back thrust. In a weaker gun, it could be destroyed.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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I have a Daiwa 160X reel and I was taking it apart to clean it for the first time since I bought it at garage sale a couple years back and haven’t cleaned it before. Upon taking off the “flippy part” a spring came out. I can’t figure how to get it back together. Do you know anything?
ANSWER : Hello Mike. I suspect that the spring that flew out is the bail kick lever spring, part 14 on this schematic. Just click on this link

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I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
ANSWER : Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter

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Protruding tube the air was not let out of the tube during a hot time last year and the tube developed an acorn look, protruding in the center, can we ger a new tube? If so where and how much?
ANSWER : Never really got into river rafting sounds like fun though. Anyways if you seach on the internet you can find sevylor merchandise. You can just about purchase anything on the internet anymore. Here is the website, you can click on this link and go straight to it. If you dont want to purchase it online you can use the websites dealer locator and find a store in your area. Good luck hope you have fun.

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How to take apart a model 237 lantern. i removed the nut on top but the handle passes through the top into the sides and i cannot get it off. I don’t want to break it
ANSWER : Tough without pictures but this may be a model that has a spring base the lens is on. Try pushing down. If you post a picture I am sure I can help you out.

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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Cracks in the top
ANSWER : Nice solution should work, and yes bad design by coleman. you can also paint roof with camper roof paint silver with fiber

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