98 Custom Act Paintball Gun

I installed a Stock on my Tippmann 98 Custom and after I put the gun back together, the Rear Bolt would cock in place. I can pull it back, but it wont stay. Everything in is its proper place, I need to know what's wrong and how to fix it.
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
It sounds like your bolt is upside down try rotateing it 180 degrees

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Usually, when the bolt doesn`t close, it is either an ammo or spring issue. An overloaded magazine will keep the rounds from seating perfectly, and the rifle will not go back into battery. Bad springs mean there isn`t enough force to close the bolt, and there will be a bit of space between it and the chamber.
In extreme cases galling leads to seizing – the actual freezing together of the threads and bolt lock-up. Continued tightening may lead to the breakage of the fastener or result in torn off threads.
A self-locking bolt is a bolt that has a locking mechanism designed to keep the bolt tight without needing a separate lock nut or lock washer. Its specialized design helps to prevent the possibility of unintentional loosening, even in high-vibration applications.
To loosen these, an ideal solution for this is to use WD-40® Penetrant Spray. Simply apply the Penetrant Spray over the affected nuts and bolts, then tap them lightly using a hammer. This will help the product seep into the nuts and bolts` fittings, allowing you remove the stuck fasteners.
Stuck hardware occurs when a bolt or nut gets corrosion between the threads and they won`t budge. Many times this leads to breaking the bolt off and having to drill and retap the hold or trying to remove it with a bolt extractor.
Bolts can fail by due to several reasons including (1) the bolt had not been sufficiently preloaded/tension during installation, (2) had lost its preload during service, (3) the applied cyclic loading had been excessive – far beyond the strength of the bolt and/or (4) the bolt had been understrength (quality issue/ …
Steel has some elasticity, so in a bolted joint, the bolt stretches a little bit when the nut is tightened. This stretching creates tension, which generates an opposing clamp force. It`s this clamp force that clenches the joint`s two sections together.
We recommend using WD-40 or a similar lubricant to help loosen up the bolt. Place the chisel on the heat of the bolt and use a strong impact to hit it. If this doesn`t work, you could opt for an impact wrench or gun which should free up the corrosion bond between threads using vibration.
Latch bolt An extremely common latch type, typically part of a lockset, it is a spring-loaded bolt with an angled edge. When the door is pushed closed, the angled edge of the latch bolt engages with the lip of the strike plate; a spring allows the bolt to retract.
Deadbolts are thicker and heavier than spring latches, and they are not rounded or angled at the end. They are normally comprised of steel, bronze or brass, and they extend deeper into the door frame–typically about one inch–than spring latches.
Simply put a drop of liquid onto the bolt`s threads and secure the nut. When the thread locker is dry, the nut will be secure. NOTE: thread locking liquids come in different strengths. Some thread locking liquids are so powerful that heat or machinery will be required to remove the nut once the thread locker has dried.
Locking Torque: A measure of the performance of a self-locking device, i.e. resistance to rotation. Typically in the “off” direction, not to include torque required to induce or relieve a parts axial load (pre-load).
WD-40 (Water Displacement-40) is a penetrating oil and water-displacing spray manufacturer based in San Diego, Calif. The company was founded in 1953 and has been providing penetrating fluids under the trademark name WD-40 since then. One of its best penetrating oils for seized bolts is the WD-40 Multi-Use Product.
bolts. And bolts can be unfastened with a coin, unless. it breaks apart – some items now have limited.
To loosen a rusted nut or bolt when you have no penetrating oil, soak a rag in a cola drink, club soda, or cider vinegar, then leave the wet rag on the nut for about 1 hour or until the nut can be loosened. Repeat if necessary.
If the nut or bolt still refuses to budge, try heating it up with a propane torch. Heating the connection causes the nut and bolt to expand and contract, which can help break the bond between them. Apply heat to the joint with the torch for several minutes, allow the nut or bolt to cool, then repeat.
Hydrogen Peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide can dissolve rust. Applying hydrogen peroxide to the fasteners and letting the sit is also an effective method to remove rust and loosen nuts and bolts.
Bolt heating is another method of creating bolt tension, but is typically only used in very large diameter bolt applications. In this time-consuming method, heat is used to stretch the bolt or stud while simple hand tools are used to turn and tighten the nut.
Fatigue failure happens when the bolts have not been tightened properly, or have loosened up during its service life. If enough force is acting on the loosened joint during use of the product, bending stresses can weaken the fastener, eventually causing it to fail.
Fasteners used for carpentry, construction, DIY, and marine applications. They come in a wide range of types, and each type in a wide variety of designs. Types of permanent fasteners include bolts, nuts, rivets, staples, and adhesives.
The most effective solution in this case is to use a heating tool, such as a blowtorch or heat gun. Applying high temperatures will expand the sound part of the bolt/screw assembly. The rust is compressed and, as soon as the metal cools, it breaks.
Everyone who has ever worked with fasteners has accidentally messed one up at some point. One of the most damaging ways to do that is by over-tightening, or over torquing the fastener. This can result in stripping screws, snapping screw heads and damaging pre-tapped threading.
The correct way to torque using rod bolt stretch is to lubricate the bolt threads (don`t forget to put some lubricant under the head of the bolt), then tighten the bolt until the recommended amount of stretch is obtained.
Rotational tightening (torque controlled, angle controlled, yield controlled), where the tensioner is rotated to directly produce the preload. Tensioning (hydraulic, thermal, mechanical), where the bolt is stretched without rotating the tensioner, typically by means of an external power supply.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

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I have a Mossberg model 185k bolt action 20 ga. shotgun.I bought it from a coworker and it was missing the bolt.I recently accquired a bolt assembly for it,but when I try to close the bolt handle it will not close.The bolt head has a steel lock ball in it that contacts the receiver when you try to close the bolt handle.Any suggestions?
ANSWER : The bolt you have acquired is either from a different model, or has been modified. With fire arms you are getting into dangerous territory, but I do suggest you have it looked at by a gunsmith. He will tell you what the problem is and you then make a decision based on that information.

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The rear plastic piece on the rear of my 1999
ANSWER : Try clear silicon sealant and tape in place till it sets, overnight, will bond to both surfaces, clear and flexible

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Kx 125 wont start
ANSWER : Try to clean out the Carberator. I had the same problem someone told me to clean my carberator which I never did before but i looked it up on youtube and tried it. All went well

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Head bolts torque and sequence
ANSWER : They are listed in all Chilton Repair books,available at any auto store

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I HAVE A TORO SAND PRO 14 TRAP RAKE. THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM WILL NOT CHARGE MY MECHANIC CHECKED ALL HOSES,PUMP AND TRIED TO BLEED THE STSYEM.WE EVEN BLOCKED THE FRONT DRIVE LINES TO SEE IF THE REAR DRIVE MOTOR ARE BAD DID NOT HELP .THE REAR LIFT ARM DOES NOT MOVE. AND WHEN JACKING THE REAR WHEELS THE TURN VERY SLOWLY.IS THERE ANY THING THAT WE MIGHT OF MISSED

THANK YOU SCENIC VALLEY G.C.

ANSWER : Hydraulics are based on Volume and pressure. You have to have both. Check all the seals and the outputs at the pump to see if you are losing pressure in the pump.

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I just bought a new tippmann 98 custom act platinum edition and it doesnt seem to be firing right. i upgrades the rear bolt and trigger and after a few shots the bolt lock in the firing position. if i pull the trigger forward there is a click and then it will fire, but imediatly lock up again
ANSWER : I would look in to the bolt and check that it moves freely, also check that is properly lubed, and finally that your upgrade bolt does not need a different spring. I would also check the batteries on the grip if it is an E-trigger.

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I just bought a Remington Model 742 Woodsmaster 30-06 at a large gunshow and noticed later that the bolt handle is only about 1/4 of an inch long, so it must have broken off at one point. Surely it was longer than that when new? How can I get a new one, and I need the manual and diagrams to take the rifle apart to fix that. Also there’s a plastic piece on the outside of the bolt, but just inside the gun. It slides with the bolt. Is this normal? The guys I bought it from said they took it deer hunting and that it shoots fine.
ANSWER : To remove the bolt, look at where the trigger enters the stock. There should be a little square/rectangle button right in front of it (inside the trigger guard, right in front of the trigger). Push that in and while holding it in, pull the bolt backwards (out). The bolt should come out pretty easy if you’re holding the button in. Most gun shops can order a new bolt. Likewise, many of them carry diagrams/manuals or can get them for you. You may also find one online for free if you hunt/peck enough. I’m not sure about the plastic piece you are referring to. My Remington is steel all the way. No plastic on the bolt anywhere. The other option is to take the bolt to Cabela’s or another gunsmith. Most of them (if they are competent) can repair the broken piece cheaper than buying a new bolt. They can also tell you if the plastic is normal. Just drop by with it and have them take a peek. estimates (and telling you if the plastic is normal) are usually free.

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