eat or air) it trips out. Any advice?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

If you find the pump is shutting off or tripping when you press the heat button, we suggest checking the circuit being used. Please unplug other items on the same circuit for example fridge/freezers, washing machines, kettles as all of these items also require a lot of energy.
The electrical connections in your hot tub might become loose over time. This can lead to power fluctuations that cause your hot tub circuit breaker to trip. Professional electricians can inspect your hot tub and tighten any connections that are loose, which should fix the circuit breaker problem.
Your pump will require a reset occasionally during the use of the spa. Please follow these steps: Unplug the pump from the socket. Whilst the pump is unplugged press the thermal reset button in and hold for 5 seconds.
This issue can pop up if your check valve is bad or your hot tub is overfilled. In either case, water makes its way back through the check valve to the blower or ozonator. Drain some water, if necessary, then replace the bad check valve. If the blower is wet, you may also need to replace it.
Open the cover on the consumer unit to see which switches have tripped to the OFF position. Put them back to the ON position. If tripping occurs again, it is probably being caused by a faulty appliance. You need to identify which circuit is affected and which appliance on that circuit is causing the problem.
Electric motor tripping reasons and how to fix them- The electric motor tripping may be due to a couple reasons, it may be due to the circuit overloads, short circuits, ground fault surges, low resistance, over-heating, contamination, vibration, cable/wire is cut, due to the motor direction clockwise or anti-clockwise, …
Most pump issues are easy to fix and can often be resolved in minutes. Carrying out regular checks and maintenance can prevent persistent pump problems so you can get back to enjoying your Lay‑Z‑Spa.
A: Yes, you have caps that you put on the inside of the hot tub, and then remove the unit! However, you will have some water spill from the unit and from within the wall if the hot tub!
Clean the Pump

Flush out or backwash the pump using a garden hose and then tip the pump to make sure there is no water left inside. Dry the inside by connecting the inflation hose, aiming it inside the pipes and turning on the AirJets™. Then, give the outside a wipe down with a damp cloth.

Hot tub pump problems can usually be repaired: you probably don`t need a new pump! The two most common problems with hot tub pumps are the seals and the motor. The seals can be replaced usually for under $100 and the motor can be rebuilt for under $250, often less!
Since your hot tub pump circulates the warm water as well as the sanitizer, a general rule is to follow manufacturer recommendations or leave the pump on for a minimum of eight hours per day.
Pump Driver Overloaded

If the power drawn by the pump increases too much, it may ultimately lead to tripping or overloading of the motor. Some of the most common causes of pump driver overload include: The speed of the pump is too fast. An oversized impeller was installed.

Motors have vents in the back and a fan that cools them. This same fan can suck in moist air and cause the GFCI to trip. You don`t want to block the vent just keep it from taking on excessive moisture. -If the breaker trips as soon as you turn it on and the pump area is dry then you may have a bad breaker or motor.
The easiest way to fix this problem is simply to replace your GFI outlet. This is an extremely easy project that anyone can do in just a few minutes with basic hand tools and the ability to shut off the power to the impacted circuit (turn off the breaker at your electrical panel).
Circuit breakers can trip due to any number of problems. That can include water damage, frayed wiring, worn fittings, bad connections, faulty transformers or simply an electrical load that is more than the system can handle.
For safety reasons many pool pumps are designed to shut off if they begin to overheat. The pump uses thermal overload switches so if your pump keeps shutting off it could be because these switches are going bad. We don`t recommend troubleshooting an overheating pool pump without a professional.
Heater/Spa Shuts Down

Typically this is because too little water/too much air is running through the hot tub`s system. If the heater shuts down but everything else runs normally, you should see a warning on your topside control. Persistent flow trouble is likely, and you should not enter the water.

Expect to spend between $200 and $1,200 for a professional to come out to fix the hot tub pump. In addition, you`ll need replacement parts. Simple seals could only be a couple of dollars, but a new motor can cost $250.
Heater/Spa Shuts Down

Typically this is because too little water/too much air is running through the hot tub`s system. If the heater shuts down but everything else runs normally, you should see a warning on your topside control. Persistent flow trouble is likely, and you should not enter the water.

Should I leave my Lay-Z-Spa filter on all the time? Regardless of heating or not, we recommend that your filter is running for at least 8 hours a day to keep the water clean.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Hi, my tiger river spa does not heat. Filters are clean, jets work, no light installed. On ciruit board, green light for “Lim” , red light for heat, no other lights. Just bought house one month ago, no manuals.
Spa is a Bengal. Have noticed a symbol (can’t tell what it is) on the screen then most of screen goes blank with just the power light on. Is there a vacation mode or something like that?
Thanks for your help.
ANSWER : Spa’s are such that so many components can become faulty when left unattended to over a period of time. But most likely what your unit needs is just a regular service to clean up its systems and also ensure there are no leakages in the pipes. Bengal is a wonderful and durable product.The problem could range from low power supply to wires being eaten up by rats and other pests. Also it could be burnt out heaters thereby the inability to produce heat. The indicator on the screen could mean various things but the screen going blank usually would be caused by poor power supply.If you dont have the technical know how refer an expert to check it out and ensure the exact problem of the above mentioned is wrong with it before repairs can be carried out.Hope this solution has been helpful?

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I HAVE A YORK STELLAR PLUS,MODEL PEUDD12N09501C 15 YEARS OLD. THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR RUNS FOREVER. THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR COMES ON , THE THE THERMOSTAT CALLS FOR GAS, THE IGNITOR LIGHTS THE GAS, FURNACE HEATS UP AND THEN THE LIMITER SHUTS OFF THE GAS BEFORE THE BLOWER COMES ON AND THEN THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR RUNS, AND RUNS TILL THE DUCT WORK IS VIBRATING. THEN OTHER TIME THE FURNACE WORKS RIGHT THROUGH THE HEAT CYCLE JUST LIKE IT WAS DESIGNED TO.
ANSWER : This flame is not likely going off on a high limit due to clogged filters as suggested previously because the unit goes off on safety before the blower comes on. If it works sometimes and not others it is most likely a flame sense issue or an electronic problem. If the boards logic tells the inducer to keep running if it thinks the flame is lost this may be your clue. You can attempt to find the red LED trouble light on the circuit board(or in burner compartment) and this may tell you exactly what the problem is but you may need to tape the door interlock switch so you don’t loose the code when you open the blower compartment. You can clean flame sensor with very fine sandpaper or steel wool but replacement is usually the best.

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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2011 ninja 1000 fuel pump not coming on
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.

Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.

ANSWER : I would agree with the shop, as far as check the simply things first.while trouble shooting you want to start with the easy things, if you jump right into the pricey things and that is not it you have spent money and time and still have the problem. If you have a multimeter it will make this pretty easy. put your meter on the ohm setting and open and close the switch ( sidestand, clutch, ect.) if one of your safety swtich is not working right it will make your bike act up. start with that and if they are all working as they should please let me know and we can go deeper into it. I had a bike come into the shop that would cut out while riding, every bump every turn. I chased my tail because i didn’t start simple. i sent a lot of time and ended up paying for a fuel pump out of pocket because that wasn’t the problem. All the switches where working and nothing seemed right everything was working. after a few days while raising the bike on the left i notched the side stand moving a little with ever little bump on the way up. long story short the spring on the side stand had lost it’s ” spring” and won’t hold the side stand up right, every bump every turn the side stand moved a little letting the switch open and kill the bike .let me know what you find and if you need more help I’ll get and send you the wiring diagram and we can start work out the problem.M.Woodring

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I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.

http://www.spaguts.com/SpaHeaters.aspx

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Trying to install a new fluro light, pull out old light to find 3 reds and 3 blacks 1 copper earth. What do I do to connect it up the right way??? When I pulled the old Fluro light out the 3 Reds were joined together with a connector ,two blacks were joined to one end of light wire, the other to the other end of the light wire,earth wire to the light case,the third black wire was connected to the wire from the ballast? Does this all make sense
ANSWER : No, this does not make sense but I have seen strange wiring before. There is power going from the light someplace else. Just connect it back up exactly as the old light was connected. It worked before so it will work again. If it works it is wired correctly. Without being there to check which wire was the hot wire and which was neutral it is impossible for me to say what is what. Make sure you connect the ground wire to the light chassis.

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