starting and I can’t get it started. What do you suggest?
Sport & Outdoor – Others
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Most likely Mo Most likely something is stopped up.Check the fuel filter in the gas tank first.If you have two lines running to the tank ,make sure both are clear.Some times you have to disassemble the carb and blow it out with compressed air.
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Check to ensure that there is fresh, clean fuel in the fuel tank. Also check the fuel filter, because a clogged fuel filter will prevent the engine from obtaining adequate fuel supply.
Check the Tank Filter
If you can`t see fuel in the priming bulb, there`s a good chance your tank filter is blocking the fuel mix from moving to the engine.
If it is difficult to start the ride-on mower, the most common reasons include: Old fuel; make sure to use fresh fuel, especially after winter storage. Spark plugs might be dirty or damaged. How to examine and replace a spark plug on your ride-on mower.
The fuel filter might be clogged. A clogged fuel filter is most commonly caused by leaving old fuel in the hedge trimmer. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the fuel filter and prevent the engine from starting.
Turn on the ignition switch and pull the starting cord quickly. You should see a spark in the plug gap. Since the spark may be faint, it may help to do the test in a dark area. If there is no spark, check for a broken or shorted (bare) lead wire or bad switch.
Fuel pump failures can be caused by electrical faults, old age (wear) or fuel contaminants (dirt, moisture or bad gas). Fuel pump failures often occur without warning. Fuel pumps, injectors and pressure regulators are the three most commonly replaced fuel system components.
A failing/failed fuel pump will cause major performance and drivability issues with your vehicle. If your fuel to air ratio is off and the cylinders aren`t getting enough fuel, then the pistons aren`t firing and your engine is struggling to move the vehicle forward.
If petrol is coming out of your primer bulb, this means that it is backing up in your carburettor and flowing out of the primer tube. The float-valve in your carburettor has most likely got stuck and just needs to be adjusted.
A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the string trimmer for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
So, an air filter might clog over time. Once blocked with dust and debris, it cannot supply the required amount of oxygen to your trimmer` engine resulting in power loss. Find the air filter, take out this component, clean and reassemble it. Replace the part if you cannot reuse it.
Turn the high speed or main jet screw clockwise until the engine begins to slow. Then, turn the screw the other way until the engine begins to slow. Turn the screw back to the midpoint. Once adjusted, check engine acceleration by moving the throttle from idle to fast.
They are typically labeled L (low speed jet), H (high speed jet), and I (idler jet).
Check to ensure that there is fresh, clean fuel in the fuel tank. Also check the fuel filter, because a clogged fuel filter will prevent the engine from obtaining adequate fuel supply. Check the air filter to ensure that it is not clogged or dirty.
If the pull cord on a gas-powered weed whacker is stuck, it could be due to a dirty carburetor, a malfunctioning spark plug or recoil starter or a blocked air filter. It could also be the result of fuel problems, like a flooded engine.
The ignition module houses an electrical coil. This coil produces and fires off the high voltage charge. If all the wiring and spark plug check out through testing, replace the entire ignition module.
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I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.
2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
My 50cc mini bike starts then dies 5 secs after starting. why?
It sounds like you may have 2 problems
dpossible loose spark plug( bad compression) Solutiondump out the gas put new inRemove the spar plug and examine the plug if it is wet and black it is fouledif it is white ad dry it is not getting gasIf you can replace the spark plug if not just clean it with a wire brush put back in and tighten Finally make sure the spark plug wire is not loseBest of luck to you
I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter
Don’t know if it’s a primer failure or absence of powder. Primer CCI small pistol; Powder Bullseyie; Bullet 148 grain wadcutter; powder 3 grains, Gun S & W 14,This has happpened three times in the last month. The gun did not fire. I couiold not turn the cylinder. The bullet stopped the cylinder from turning.It was pushed back with a god and casing and bullet were separated. The primer was spent and there was no powder inside. The bullet seemed a little burnt.
Maybe there had been powder inside after all?
The popular theory is that I pulled the cssing after adding the powder, weighed the powder and then forgot to reload the powdeer before seating the bullet. But three times? Is there another possible explanation or explanations? I use a three-turret Lee reloader and there is an occasional primer seating problem; it doesn’t go in far enough always
I have seen this many many times before when I used to reload, my Remington M788 22-250. If inadvertently, didn’t add any powder, the primer had enough force to just break the seal, with the brass, and push the bullet out, just into the throat of the chamber… had to use my cleaning rod, to push the bullet back out. Sometimes, too the powder itself, just went stoopid, and it would burn? and not explode, if that’s at all possible, and every now and then, and this is over thousands of reloads, sometimes one or two, just didn’t work, would either jam in the barrel, or fallout the end ..lol I too used to use a Lee-loader too. You need to ensure that every case has powder. Also I have had “Bad” primers too. A primer has a large amount of force.. believe it or not.. and also 3 grains of powder is NOT a lot either. Well compared to the M788,anyway… It would be easy to “Miss” a Fill. We are all only human though.
I have a 1996 yamaha wave venture 1100….ran greatsat for 2 yrs..started but only ran for spray into carbs….drained fuel started and ran good. Started about month later and would only run as long as primed with starter fluids…checked fuel filter(ok)…fuel flow to fuel pump ok…output of fuel pump appears ok….but engine will only run as long as starter fluid/gas is sprayed into carbs. I don’t think it’s the carbs as it ran great a month ago…now it’s starving for gas flow….so it appears to be a fuel delivery problem…what would be the sequence of tests up to tearing into the carbs? is there a fuel filter inside the carbs? remember it fires off great when primed…until the fuel spray is consumed…
Check the on/off/reserve valve
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up