Sport & Outdoor – Others
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Hi,
Many times the pin will shear and the ends are still there just as if nothing happened…if you are not transfering the power then run it slow and observe what IS running and where it is stopping….you might also be able to manual with the engine off turn the blower and see where it is turn to….
My gues is that you have a broken shear pin and the parts just did not come out and are stuck there…
Many times the pin will shear and the ends are still there just as if nothing happened…if you are not transfering the power then run it slow and observe what IS running and where it is stopping….you might also be able to manual with the engine off turn the blower and see where it is turn to….
My gues is that you have a broken shear pin and the parts just did not come out and are stuck there…
heatman101
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If a large object gets wedged between your augers and the housing, the pins break as designed to protect your auger gearcase from incurring damage. All two-stage snow blowers have at least one shear pin on each side of the auger gear case.
Shear pins are designed to break in half if the auger hits a rock or chunk of ice to prevent damage to the engine. If the shear pin breaks, the auger won`t be able to turn.
The shear bolts keep breaking in the auger or impeller of my snow blower / thrower can I use a regular bolt? NO, The fact that the shear bolt is broken is an indication that the impeller or auger has impacted against something that the machine is not designed or capable of processing.
Can I use a grade 8 bolt to replace the shear pin? No. Damage to the unit will occur if a higher grade bolt is used in place of the original.
Typically, two shear pins (shear bolts) connect the auger to the auger shaft. They feature specially designed grooves, allowing them to snap if there`s too much torque.
These shear bolts are classified as a grade 2 bolt, which are hard enough to maintain auger rotation, yet soft enough to shear if the auger is prevented from rotating.
If one or both of the bearings have seized, the auger will have trouble turning. You should always lubricate the auger bearings as part of your regular snowblower maintenance to ensure the axle can turn easily, but you may need to replace the old bearings with new ones to fully solve the problem.
On a cool grill, remove the grates, drip pan, heat baffle/shield, and hopper to see the auger parts. If the auger has pellets stuck inside the auger shaft and is not turning, it is most likely jammed.
Shear failure usually occur in the bolt (it could be single, or double shear surface depending on the number of plates) while the bearing failure occur in the plate.
The Industrial Fastener Institute (Inch Fastener Standards, 7th ed. 2003. B-8) states that shear strength is approximately 60% of the minimum tensile strength. “As an empirical guide, shear strengths of carbon steel fasteners may be assumed to be approximately 60 percent of their specified minimum tensile strengths.
Bolts will fail when shear stress supersedes shear strength, which is around half the tensile strength.
Shear bolts are typically not reusable, whereas regular bolts can be reused if they are not damaged during removal.
Shear strength is defined as the maximum load that can be supported prior to fracture, when applied at a right angle to the fastener`s axis. A load occurring in one transverse plane is known as single shear. Double shear is a load applied in two planes where the fastener could be cut into three pieces.
A snowblower auger should not spin freely when the auger control lever is off. A free-spinning auger is a symptom of broken shear pins. Shear pins are a fail-safe feature designed to break when the auger hits a solid object.
Two-stage snow blowers have a self-propelled transmission with forward and reverse speeds that propel the unit in order to assist the user. Different than a single-stage, there are two distinct stages of snow removal, thus the two-stage name.
A 2-stroke engine combines the compression and ignition steps on its upstroke while combining the power and exhaust on the downstroke. Because there are fewer moving parts in this engine, easier maintenance is traded for less power and torque.
: an easily replaceable pin inserted at a critical point in a machine and designed to break when stressed to excess.
Titanium is the perfect metal for shear pins. Like platinum and gold, titanium is an element near the top of the galvanic scale and its resistance to corrosion of all kinds is legendary, reducing the cost of corrosion-related maintenance and replacement to zero.
The shear pin made of W1 grade tool steel and its chemical composition shown in table1 as per American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) standards [1]. The American Iron and Steel Institute also specify density as 7.84 g per cubic centimetre and thermal conductivity specified as 48.3 W.m / K at 95 deg C [6].
Examine the Belts
One or more of the belts slipping off the pulleys can be the cause of a snowblower not throwing snow. If they can be put back around the pulleys snugly, that might be all it needs. But if the belts are stretched or broken, they absolutely need to be replaced.
Certified Snowblower Replacement Shear Pins for Murray/Briggs, 2-Pk, 5/16″ x1. 5″
A common issue is a clogged carburetor from stale gas. Using a fuel stabilizer keeps fuel fresh and the carburetor from gumming and varnishing. Third step, check the ignition system with a spark tester. Step four, replace the spark plug and reconnect the spark plug wire.
If there`s a difference in track tension between the left and right snow blower tracks, your unit could pull to one side when driving.
On average, an Auger Monster rotor can last ten or more years with proper care and maintenance.
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Snowblower- both first and second stages stopped working and the sheer pins appear to be ok
ANSWER : Hi,
Many times the pin will shear and the ends are still there just as if nothing happened…if you are not transfering the power then run it slow and observe what IS running and where it is stopping….you might also be able to manual with the engine off turn the blower and see where it is turn to….
My gues is that you have a broken shear pin and the parts just did not come out and are stuck there…
Many times the pin will shear and the ends are still there just as if nothing happened…if you are not transfering the power then run it slow and observe what IS running and where it is stopping….you might also be able to manual with the engine off turn the blower and see where it is turn to….
My gues is that you have a broken shear pin and the parts just did not come out and are stuck there…
heatman101
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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.
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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.
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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up
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I have a Scuba Pro X650a regulator. After having the unit serviced this winter I used it last month for the first time in St. Croix.
The first day of diving went fine. However, as the week progressed I noticed that when taking in a breath the regulator continued to trickle air at a very small rate. While not enough to be concerned about safety at this point it has become an annoyance both from the fact that bubbles continue to trickle past my ears and air usage has increased. This is an intermittent problem.
I had it looked at by 2 certified Scuba Pro Dive shops and they could not find anything wrong with it though one did lower the first stage pressure just to a bit to see if that would work. I also cycled the control lever position for “dive” and “surface” intervals to ensure that there were no sticking problems.
It does appear that the problem is intermittent and that it only occurs when the regulator is under water.
In addition is there a diagram in which I can use to troubleshoot this problem?
NOTE: this version of the X650 was not on the recall list of Scuba Pro.
Any help would be appreciated.
Stephen
ANSWER : Strangely enough I had the exact same problem with mine.. I’m in the caribbean I love diving and spear gun fishing.. I had one of these a year ago with the same issue I actually wound up increasing the pressure to get it to work.. It wasnt muc use cause my air ran out at a faster rate. Was never able to fix ,, A buddy of mine had the same issue ,, wound up replacing the swivle vale and this helped for a week and then back to the same old .. I then changed to the Aqualung Mikron Regulator had no issues and it works great .. Quite frankly I think we had bad ones here but I’m not sure where you got yours. If you wish you can replace the swivle valve (most likely cause) but I’ll just change the unit and get another..
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Machine will stop adjusting resistance. On start up the machine will usually work. I can go through the calibration procedure and it will calibrate and work normally for 4 or 5 resistance adjustments. It will then stop adjusting. It acts like there is a cable pulled and refuses to adjust, even though I am not getting the warning telling me to “Release cable”
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
ANSWER : I would think that your problem has possibly to do with a faulty power supply, component, see to my mind it is a thermal problem as it heats up,it goes faulty? The Voltage changes and it goes out of spec.. When left to cool, it then is OK… Usually, & from my experience this is a thermal problem. To see obtain some Freeze Spray, from radio Shack or similar,and spray components on the main power board, and others too, use it on any large heat sinked components and see if when you do this the fault clears. Then replace that component(s).
Or as you suggest the sensors that feed the inputs maybe with sensors though one has little option but to replace them and see if this clears the problem.
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Suddenly stops recodring
ANSWER : I love my Sanyo mp3 recorder I’ve been using it in church for 4 or 5 years. It never quits it can hold an extra gig with a chip and i can plug it into my computer to upload it in seconds. I say replace the old recorder
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