conds dies, has NEW gas ans new plug, only runs for seconds after you prime it tons of times
Sport & Outdoor – Others
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If it has a fuel filter on it change it and that should get you going again. If not the dirt that was in the tank is prob in the carb cleaning the fuel bowl and jets should get you up to par. Hope that helps
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When your snowblower engine only runs for a few seconds and then dies, the problem is often caused by a gummed-up carburetor. The carburetor mixes air with fuel in the proper proportion to produce a combustible gas.
Running out of gas is a common occurrence, and in most cases, re-gassing the tank gets you back to work. However, running out of gas causes the carburetor to drain the bottom of the gas tank, and that, as you can imagine, is where any crap that falls into the tank collects.
A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the snowblower for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
You may want to simply drain the gas out of the tank, especially if you have only a bit of gas left in the tank. Either way, leaving untreated gas in your tank for months and months is a bad idea. Caring for your unit properly at the end of snowblowing season is critically important.
A plugged or improperly adjusted carburetor can cause your leaf blower to start, but then immediately die. Over time, especially if fuel has been left in the leaf blower for a long period, some of the fuel will evaporate and you will be left with a thick, sticky substance that can ultimately clog the carburetor.
The belts in your snow blower transmit power from the engine to the drive wheels and the auger. When these belts become worn or stretched they will start to slip, which will cause a loss of power. Since the two belts are located beside one another, it is recommended that you replace them at the same time.
Old and new gas should not be mixed for a variety of reasons, the major ones are; The old gas degrades over time it should not be added because it has already lost it`s combustibility. It can cause sputtering. It might fail to fire it up.
How long can gas be stored before it goes bad? Whether in a gas can or in your snow blower, gas can go stale and lose its volatility in as little as 30 days. Using Sta-Bil Storage Fuel Stabilizer can increase storage time up to 24 months.
Let the machine run for at least five minutes to let the engine time to warm up, fuel to run through the system, etc. Engage the drive and auger a couple times to make sure all is working as it should too. Then, after it is fully shut down, check for any drips, frayed belts, etc. That`s basically it.
To prevent gum deposits and rust from forming inside the hose, filter, gas tank, and carburetor during storage, your snowblower needs to be emptied of its fuel. Leaving fuel in the gas tank can damage a snowblower. It`s better to drain the tank completely and treat it to prevent moisture buildup.
Drain the Fuel
Even if the gas has been stabilized, we recommend completely draining your snow blower`s fuel system before storing it away for the season. Gas oxidizes and breaks down over time, creating sludge that can build up inside your snow blower`s fuel tank, carburetor and fuel lines.
Storing a Snowblower Outside
However, it`s always best to store your snowblower in a clean, dry area, so consider keeping it in a storage unit if you don`t have a garage or shed. It`s time to breathe a sigh of relief—you`re done fighting mounds of snow for another year.
Weak or Absent Airflow
Weak airflow or total lack of it is the most obvious sign of a bad blower motor. The problem could be due to a clogged blower from accumulated dust or debris. It could also be due to leaky air ducts or a bad capacitor.
A typical reason for your blower motor overheating is a clogged air filter. When the air filter is clogged, the blower motor has to work harder to pull warm air into the system, which can cause the motor to overheat. To keep your fan motor from overheating, you`ll want to check your air filter every 2 months.
A snowblower that runs better on half choke likely suffers from a dirty or faulty carburetor. Cleaning or replacing the carburetor will fix the issue.
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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
My 50cc mini bike starts then dies 5 secs after starting. why?
It sounds like you may have 2 problems
dpossible loose spark plug( bad compression) Solutiondump out the gas put new inRemove the spar plug and examine the plug if it is wet and black it is fouledif it is white ad dry it is not getting gasIf you can replace the spark plug if not just clean it with a wire brush put back in and tighten Finally make sure the spark plug wire is not loseBest of luck to you
3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
Mule 610 will not start. Was running fine, plowing snow and it starting acting like it was running out of gas and stalled. Put gas in put it won’t start and acts like it is not getting gas. Could the gas line have frozen due to the depth of the snow?
Did you ever find the fix for your mule?
Starting my Mojave 250
I’m having the same problem I guess it popular in mojave I changed the plug and I still get Orange spark is there any ideas it won’t kick start when cold but once warm she runs great and will kick start
Have a 2004 kawasaki 3010 desiel mule that has worked fine for years with regular maint. then yesterday we started it as usual with the glow plug lights indicator and it ran for a few minutes until we went to take of and it just died. period. we tried to check thing out and finally found a bad fuse in the glow plug fuse holder, changed it with the same size and it ran the rest of the time we needed it and then again today we started and ran it same as yesterday and it worked fine for about 30 to 45 minutes and will out in the field it just quite. i immediately started searching for signs of heat or melting of wire or other signs and found none. the fuse that goes into this circuit is a 5 amp and all i had was a 20 so i said lets see what happens. it immediately blow the fuse without any out ward sign of problems.??????
Replace the glow plugs one or more are shorted