using foam to see if air was being sucked in. Found no leaks.
Please advise if you have any other possible reasons for this occurring. This is an inground pool. Piping runs under ground surface for about 14 metres. Could an air leak occur underground?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Hi, W/D here.It is not too likely that there is an air leak under ground. The piping is normally routed in a manner to keep the lines full. I would only suspect such a leak if I were losing water level at a faster than normal rate. It sounds like you’ve checked what I’d have checked, but here’s a few more.General start up: Make sure that you bleed air from the system when you start the equipment. Bleed air off of the discharge of the pump, and off of the filter.1. At the circulation pump, there is a strainer that operates like your skimmer basket. Make sure that it is clean., and that the cap is on tight and sealing.2. Make sure that your valving is in the right position on the suction and discharge lines. If your suction line is selectable (i.e., skimmer or bottom drain), make sure that it is in the desired position. If the suction at the skimmer is low, but the output at the recirculation nozzles is normal, this might be the problem.3. Check for adequate flow at the discharge of the pump.4. Check for proper pressure at the filter. Most filters are equipped with a gauge with indicators chowing normal pressure, and another indicator usually set 10 psi higher to indicate when the filter is becoming plugged.5. If equipped with a heater, check your valving there as well.Well, that’s all that I can think of for now. Hope that this helped a bit!–W/D–

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Loss of suction is commonly caused from air entering your filtration system. Air usually gets in through the pump lid, through the o-ring under the pump lid or even through leaky pipes between the pump and the skimmer box.
The most common reason for low or no flow is that the baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump) will free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully `prime` and function at full capacity.
Low suction is often caused by a blockage in the pool equipment. The key player in all suction-related issues is your pool impeller, so service it regularly. Clean everything once a week to prevent a build-up of debris.
Suction skimmers operate similarly to a household vacuum cleaner. Oil is sucked up through wide floating heads and pumped into storage tanks. Although suction skimmers are generally very efficient, they are vulnerable to becoming clogged by debris and require constant skilled observation.
1. Your Pump is Pulsing/Loud. If you`re noticing water surging or pulsing in your pump, you could potentially be dealing with a blocked skimmer line. But first, it`s important to check your pump for blockages and air leaks.
One of the easiest ways to increase vacuum cleaner suction is to empty the dust bag or container. Dust containers need to have enough space for airflow, otherwise, they could get clogged and have less suction power. Regularly check your dust compartment and empty or change it when it`s already 70-80% full.
We have two possible ways of adjusting the pressure in a vacuum system: first, by changing the pumping speed (altering the speed of the pump or throttling by closing a valve); second, through admission of gas (opening a valve).
So, the usual areas that cause suction loss include the wrong height setting, stuck rollers, a faulty gasket, a broken vacuum belt, a filled bag, or a clogged hose.
Pool skimmers are the starting point of pool circulation and act as a gateway to your pool`s filtration system. Your pool pump sucks water into the skimmers. As the water passes through the skimmer basket, it`s cleared of larger debris that would cause a blockage if it made it all the way to your pump or filter.
Protein skimmers work 24-7 to keep your aquarium`s water free of dissolved organics. The heart of every skimmer is the water pump. It must be reliable, energy-efficient, and matched to the particular skimmer model.
When you closely inspect your pool skimmer, you will notice two holes. One hole goes directly to your pump. The other hole goes down to the floor drain, usually located in the middle of your pool. The diverter`s primary function is to divert water suction from the skimmer to the floor drain.
If you see excessive swelling, noticeable wear and/or cracks, or one or more of the impeller vanes have broken off, replace the impeller pump immediately. You also need to replace the impeller if the vanes are not making contact with the pump body. Impeller pumps work best when you run them on a regular basis.
One is make sure the skimmer basket is fully seated in the skimmer. The second is to direct your return jets so water is pushing debris toward the skimmer, and third, you can add a weir door to your skimmer. If find that often the jets make the most difference.
1. Your Pump is Pulsing/Loud. If you`re noticing water surging or pulsing in your pump, you could potentially be dealing with a blocked skimmer line. But first, it`s important to check your pump for blockages and air leaks.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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How many hours a day should you run your pump? How many hours a day is it safe to run your intex pool pump, to insure a clean pool? I purchased my pool last summer and had major problems all year. When i got my pool my pump did not work and i had to wait a week for a new one to be shipped, well after that i had nothing but problems. My boyfriend said it was not good to let pump run all day but i think hes wrong. Can you give me some good tips on keeping my pool crystal clear?
ANSWER : Some pumps are 24hr 7days pumps some are not and should be on a timer. time usually run for 8 hours max a day. you can get a time from most pool leisure places. the pump will say if its a 24hr pump if not then would say its a timer type.

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I have a Intex 18×4 above ground pool with original pump that takes type A filter cartridges. Did not set up last year and cannot find manual. The pump is leaking around the top after putting new filter in. I know I am not remembering everything I’m supposed to do with hose connecting into pump and pool when you change filters or flush pump. Can you help me?
ANSWER : For manual you can visit http://www.intexcorp.com.hk/proifv/proifv_dl_client.jsp?source=intexstore this link. Hope it will help you.

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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.

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