FX100 MK5/6 VW 2.0 TSI Clutch / Alum Flywheel
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To allow the friction material to properly seat to the flywheel and pressure plate, all Clutch Masters clutches require a minimum break-in period of 500 miles of normal stop-and-go driving (no full throttle shifting or compression braking) before full abuse can be initiated.
The more complete explanation: The torque-holding capacity of a clutch is proportional to the mean diameter of the friction disc material, multiplied by the clamping force of the pressure plate, multiplied by the coefficient of friction of the friction material, multiplied by the number of friction discs.
FX500 – 550 lbs. ft.
The FX400 ceramic paddle design creates a quick and rapid engagement as well as clutch chatter that may not be ideal for street driven vehicles. Rated at 515 ft/lbs of torque.
However, the typical break-in period is within the first 500-1000 miles. If you give in to the common urge and start pushing your engine too hard early on, you risk accelerating this process, causing minute imperfections in the size and shape of engine components.
Using the clutch to slow down works in tandem with the accelerator pedal. Let off the gas and let your car slow down a bit. Then press the clutch, downshift, and ease the clutch back out. If you time it right, you will feel a firm but smooth deceleration.
Unfortunately not – Coasting can be dangerous and coasting doesn`t save fuel. If you`re new to driving and are reading this, coasting is when you drive along with the clutch pushed in, or have the gear stick in neutral – or both. This disengages the engine from the wheels.
Add Power: Performance clutches are designed to increase your car`s power by transmitting more torque from the engine to the wheels. Because these clutches weigh less, the amount of energy necessary to overcome inertia is reduced.
The maximum pressure which can be imposed on the friction material is 1.5 MPa. the outer diameter of the clutch plate is 200 mm and its internal diameter is 100 mm. Assuming uniform wear theory for the clutch plate, the maximum torque (in Nm) that can be transmitted is. 530.14.
Clutches are rated in torque, so it would depend on how much WTQ you`re making, but the Stage 1 HD meant for the 04 5 speed is rated at 319 ft/lbs at the wheel.
This Stage 2 clutch can handle up to 411 lb-ft, leaving ample room for future power upgrades. To offset the loss of cushion from removing the stock dual-mass flywheel (DMF), the hub on the clutch disc has springs to dampen vibration, smooth out shifts, and keep drivetrain noise down.
You need to do at least 500 city miles or roughly 1000-2000 highway miles before your clutch will be mated to the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. This does not mean that at mile 501 you can blast it and go WOT. This means that on average you should be clos to done breaking the clutch in by this mileage.
Poor acceleration. If you notice that your car isn`t accelerating as it should, the clutch could be part of the problem. An upgrade can resolve this issue. Squeaking, grumbling, rubbing, or other noises.
“A break could be any length of time, but past a point, it becomes a `breakup,`” says Dr. Steinberg. “If you don`t want it to be considered a `breakup,` then the break shouldn`t be more than a season, or three months long.”
Set a reasonable time frame
Six months is a break up, not a break, the experts say. Anything from one week to a month should be enough time for one or both parties to determine whether they should stay together.
The trick is to let the clutch out to the engagement point quickly and then more slowly from there. The only way you can know where this engagement point is, is by getting a feel for the car.
In general, you`ll want to keep this rule of thumb in mind: the lower the gear, the more power you have available. The higher the gear, the faster your engine runs! With both manual and automatic transmissions, you`ll generally move from lower to higher gears as you accelerate.
While braking, you should always depress the clutch.
This is one of the most common scenarios wherein people do apply the brakes but forget to disengage the clutch in-turn stalling the car. Well, stalling the car especially with transmission load will take a serious toll on your vehicle`s gearbox assembly.
A malfunctioning clutch can also cause poor acceleration. The reason why is that the clutch is slipping and unable to transfer power from the engine to the drivetrain.
A new clutch has minimal slippage tendency but this increases as the clutch begin wearing out with time. This results in a loss in the overall power that the wheels receive from the engine and thereby decreases the transmission efficiency which leads to car consuming more fuel and delivering low fuel mileage.
By opening the clutch of one axle and closing that of the other, gear changes can be made very quickly and without loss of torque transfer. Shifting gears with this system is smoother and more efficient, saving fuel and reducing emissions.
When you dip the clutch in a car, the revs will drop. This is due to the inertia of the flywheel, and the lack of air going in the intake as the throttle is release. After the gear change is over and the clutch is released, the engine speed will go back up again, meeting the transmission speed.
Ideally, you want your car to ride as smoothly as possible. Releasing the clutch too early will make your vehicle jerk while putting excessive pressure on the engine and transmission. This overheats the clutch, which can do serious damage over time. This is a common problem with learner and novice drivers.
Upgrading clutch means you could deliver more horsepower and run clutch for longer durations, but it might make engagement poor. One advantage of organic materials is engagement is smooth which enable you control clutch pedal better and enable daily driving more manageable.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Replacement Cable Kit/ Roof Lift System for 1995 Coachmen Clipper
ANSWER : Check this out:
rvworkshop.com/L_W_lift_system_repair_manual.pdf
rvworkshop.com/L_W_lift_system_repair_manual.pdf
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Fixing Rowenta lighter
ANSWER : Pull apart in 2 parts…
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A ryobi 780r trimmer developed strong vibration. The crankshaft was spun on the bearing. Wear mark on crankshaft. I replaced short block assembly (incl head,bottom case, case bearing,piston, crank and spark plug pre-assembled), clutch drum assy, spacer and clutch cover assy. Trimmer started easily before. Now can get to cough only, cannot run. Only part I’m unsure of is spacer. I installed with groove toward flywheel. Carb and hoses were not disassembled. Can’t figure it out. Help! thanks, Will
ANSWER : Hi, reset the flywheel gap to 8 thou. Also check the flywheel is located correctly on the crankshaft as your symptoms indicate a timing problem. Hope this helps, regards Phil.
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My 5 hp briggs stopped running. No spark. took recoil off to reveal a rotten coil with wires rotted off. cleaned off the flywheel and replaced the coil with one from Napa. The engine does not have points behind the flywheel. with coil replaced I cannot get any spark
ANSWER : Did you set the Air Gap correctly, it should be .020 inch. If the Air Gap is correct and you cleaned the pickup magnets, you should be getting spark. I have different color coded plastic sheets of the correct thickness to set the Air Gap on different engines. You could use a use a side panel from a plastic soda bottle (Mt Dew, Pepsi, ect) Place it between the Flywheel and the Armature/Ign Coil. Allow the magnets on the Flywheel to pull the Armature/Ign Coil together and then tighten the Armature/Ign Coil bolts. Carefully turn the Engine while pulling the plastic from between the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. The Armature/Ign Coil is now properly set.
Generall speaking for a gasoline engine to run you need 3 things. (1) Spark, (2) Gas and (3) Air.
I hope this is helpful. UAW 974
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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.
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I have a Kawasaki Mule 3000. It is hard to keep
ANSWER : Take the spring off the screw and use teflon tape so you can adjust the screw further
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How to replace outer tie rod ends on a 1998 Buick LeSabre Limited
ANSWER : A set of wrenches, a beer and some gloves. First jack the car up, remove the tire and wheel,pull the cotter pin out of the bolt, remove the castle nut( nut with notches cut out), measure the old rod end with the new, mark the threads on the tie rod to have good judgment of where the other end was, place wrench on the flats in the spot on the rod,the other on the end, turn in opposite directions and turn only the rod end to remove,now the mark on the rod you have left is where you tighten the new one to if the parts are equally the same length,if not adjust it accordingly, screw the nut back on tight and replace the pin. Now go get it aligned.
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