and come to complete stop. Blades continue to rotate but will not drive forward. I can put it in neutral and back in gear and it will go for short while until it will repeat the same sequence. Trying to determine which parts need to be replaced.
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the lawn mower for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
You can either clean the air filters, or you can replace them with new ones. If you have a foam filter, you can clean it with a drop of dish soap and warm water. Remember to air-dry them before using them again. But if you have paper air filters, you must replace them during the maintenance of your mower.
If your lawnmower is starting and then stalling, the most likely issue is the carburetor. The most common issue is that the carburetor is dirty. Here`s what you need to know about how a dirty carburetor can cause a lawnmower to start, then stall out and die.
There are several reasons a Craftsman lawnmower may turn over but not start, with the most common ones including the following: Lack of fuel. Dirty air filters. Electrical issues in the ignition system or the starter motor.
If your lawn mower starts, runs for a while, then dies, check the ignition coil, gas cap, and spark plug. One or more of these parts could be causing your problem. Follow our repair and symptom guide to help you fix this.
If the engine starts, but does not run smoothly, it means that the spark plug and ignition system are in order and you need to look elsewhere for the source of the problem. The usual culprit is air intake or fuel system related.
A sputtering engine means that it is not achieving full combustion. It could be the sign of a very simple problem or it could be a symptom of a much more concerning engine, fuel system or exhaust system issue. The most common reason why an engine sputters is when you are about to run out of gas.
A sputtering engine is a sign of a lean fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This can happen if you have a clogged somewhere in the fuel system that impedes the delivery of fuel into the chamber. For example, your fuel filter or fuel lines might be clogged.
Clogged or Dirty Air Filters

Dirty air filters are one of the most common reasons lawn mowers sputter. Dirt can be present in the apertures that lead from the carburetor and the fuel filter and interrupt the flow of fuel supply to the combustion chamber. You want to be sure to clean or replace dirty air filters.

If your tractor cranks, but won`t start, you`ll want to look at a few different engine components. Is the fuel making it to the cylinder? Check the fuel level, the shutoff valve, and the fuel filter. If those components look ok, air might not be making it to the cylinder.
An airlock is one of the common causes why your mower won`t start after running out of fuel. An Airlock occurs when air replaces fuel in the fuel lines. As you refill your fuel tank, you could push the air towards your mower`s carburetor, which keeps the new fuel from reaching the engine.
A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won`t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug.
Why Does Your Lawn Mower Run for 30 Minutes Then Die? Your lawn mower runs for 30 minutes then dies if you are having issues such as a bad spark plug, air problems, a malfunctioning carburetor, or a faulty gas cap. You may even encounter the issue that your lawn mower runs for 5 minutes then dies.
Disconnected, dirty or fouled spark plugs are common causes for engines that won`t start. For small engines, spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or after 25 hours of use. You should also check to make sure the spark plug gap is set correctly.
A clogged carburetor is most commonly caused by leaving fuel in the lawn mower for a long period of time. Over time, some of the ingredients in the fuel may evaporate, leaving behind a thicker, stickier substance. This sticky fuel can clog up the carburetor and cause the engine to stall.
If your lawn mower starts, runs briefly, then dies these are the four most common reasons that`s happening: Dirty carburetor / clogged carburetor bowl. Old gasoline that has gone bad. Dirty or defective spark plugs.
A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won`t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug.
If your lawn mower starts, runs briefly, then dies these are the four most common reasons that`s happening: Dirty carburetor / clogged carburetor bowl. Old gasoline that has gone bad. Dirty or defective spark plugs.
Being Overworked. One of the most common reasons that a lawn mower might stall while it is cutting grass is that it is being overworked. This is a mechanism that is intentionally incorporated into the mower to prevent the motor from being blown.
Why Does Your Lawn Mower Run for 30 Minutes Then Die? Your lawn mower runs for 30 minutes then dies if you are having issues such as a bad spark plug, air problems, a malfunctioning carburetor, or a faulty gas cap. You may even encounter the issue that your lawn mower runs for 5 minutes then dies.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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My 50cc mini bike starts then dies 5 secs after starting. why?
ANSWER : It sounds like you may have 2 problems

Bad gas
dpossible loose spark plug( bad compression) Solutiondump out the gas put new inRemove the spar plug and examine the plug if it is wet and black it is fouledif it is white ad dry it is not getting gasIf you can replace the spark plug if not just clean it with a wire brush put back in and tighten Finally make sure the spark plug wire is not loseBest of luck to you

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I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
ANSWER : I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?

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Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again
ANSWER : Check to see if you have a spark -then check if you are still getting fuel-and how old is the fuel-because it is recommended ,an im assuming its a 2 stroke motor,that the fuel should be replace with a fresh 2 stroke mixture every couple of months as the mixture jellyfies and sludges up the carb etc-try those first

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We have a NordicTrack EXP 1000X. We purchased it new, but did not use it very much. We started using it again and now at different times (ie, 15 min, 1 min etc) it will come to a complete stop. It almost throws you off. Once you step off it starts moving again until you put your weight back on it, where it will once again stop. There have been times where you can feel the speed fluctuate, but the digital numbers do not change. We really hope you can help!
ANSWER : Hi,BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish)

This condition is when the treadmill operates normally
without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on
the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of
time
with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in
order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)

2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you
have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)

4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to
take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC).
Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better
tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are
a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the
Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections
instructions.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest
incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key
and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general
rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy
belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high
friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and
walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline
but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity
takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On
some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the
problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently,
check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just
crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily
better. The tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to
keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt
(with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3”
without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you
don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able
to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal
operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for
slipping
and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor
belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs
a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost
any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not
that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If
you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t
too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem.
DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE
MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS
GOOD.
The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object
preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor
spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then
apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in
the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force
against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure
yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush
replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled.
Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core
by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the
core
against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets
are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be
replaced.
Controller:
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a
controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and
then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a

control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the
belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls
since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output
to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating
the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as
the cause,
replace the control. Let me know,if needed further assistance.Hope i helped you.Thanks for using ‘ Fixya ‘ and have a nice day!!

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Ok, so last week one of my airsoft guns, the Crosman Stinger R39, and part of the cocking mechanism broke to where it can not be pulled back, and the Airsoft pellet cannot be loaded into the chamber. so I took it apart, to get the other half of the cocking mechanism. I then proceeded to fix it (with gorilla apoxy) and let it dry until today. a little while ago, I put it back together, tried to **** it back, and – SNAP – it broke….. again. is there a place to buy replacement parts replacement parts for it?
ANSWER : My cocking bolt broke too and now i cant find a replacement for it 🙁

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Suddenly stops recodring
ANSWER : I love my Sanyo mp3 recorder I’ve been using it in church for 4 or 5 years. It never quits it can hold an extra gig with a chip and i can plug it into my computer to upload it in seconds. I say replace the old recorder

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