when all of a sudden it stopped igniting. recharged the battery which is also brand new,switched to a new gas bottle. still no ignition. called Coleman looking for repairs and explained the problem there suggestion was replace the unit. the unit still pumps water at a good rate. where exactly is the flow meter? thank you. Paul
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How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

If an electric water heater is not producing hot water, it could be a simple problem like a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Additionally, some electric water heaters have a circuit-style safety switch located near or on the thermostat.
However, when used and maintained appropriately, it can even last for 15+ years. The tank has an anode rod that attracts corrosive elements in water, protecting its interior lining from corrosion. After using the tank water heater for long (about ten years), the rod gets eaten away and no longer works effectively.
Water Heater Lifespan

If your tank water heater is more than 10 years old, it may be time to consider replacing it. With proper maintenance, a tank water heater tank should last six to 12 years. A tankless water heater can last for more than 20 years.

One of the most common reasons a water heater stops working is leaks. Check all around your water heater for any signs of water.
Tankless water heaters typically have a lifespan of 20 years or more. Traditional water heaters with standing water tanks can last around 10 to 15 years before you notice signs of age.
Sediment Buildup

— As an aging water heater is continually called upon to heat and reheat water, sediment starts to form on the bottom of the tank. Over time, the sediment hardens and grows thicker along the tank floor.

Over time, sediment can build up in the bottom of the tank and cause the unit to overheat. This can shorten the lifespan of the unit and lead to expensive repairs. To avoid this, it`s important to flush the tank regularly. Most manufacturers recommend flushing the tank once a year.
Sediment build up in the tank

Over time, sediment can build up in the bottom of the tank, where the burner usually is. This can lead to slower heating or poor efficiency in your water heater, meaning lukewarm water rather than hot water. The solution for this is to drain the tank and to use a water softener.

While today`s water heaters are better designed than older models, they still require regular maintenance in order to prolong their lives. With regular inspection, draining, and flushing, you can expect a gas water heater to last anywhere from 8-12 years and an electric water heater to last anywhere from 10-15 years.
The high resistance caused by a loose wire produces a substantial amount of heat that can eventually cause fires. If there is a loose electrical connection within your water heater`s system, your reset button`s thermometer can trip (regardless of the water`s temperature) if it picks up the heat from that loose wire.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.

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Caravan water heater not letting hot water through
ANSWER : Pipes are rusted and cloggen from the inside of them

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I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.

http://www.spaguts.com/SpaHeaters.aspx

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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.

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