Turn it off and the goes slow again. facts – batteries tested and show 6 volts each and full set tests at 36v. Cart never had this problem until ran out of power and was towed about 1000 yards. I was told by by the person towing the cart that he put the control switch from Run to Tow. Any ideas what the problem could be?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
He may not have known to put it in tow mode and doesn’t want to get blamed for damage to transmission towing it in wrong gear.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Low Battery

Usually, the most common reason golf carts slow down is when they don`t get enough power output from the battery. If the battery pack charge is very low and your cart is out of power, your cart will run slow.

A common reason for current disruption is solenoid wear. Each time the solenoid activates as you press down on the gas pedal, the solenoid compounds down onto a thin metal contact plate. Over time, the force of this pressure creates tiny electric arcs on the plates` surface.
If your cart does not start smoothly, hesitates before starting, or does not gain speed properly, these are all signs of a bad or damaged accelerator.
It should have a small reset button (Usually it will be red) located near the main battery supply. Hit the reset button and then put the cover back on the motor. The next step would be to recharge your cart and try turning it on again. If it starts up then you`re in luck!
Weak batteries, incorrect tires, and wear and tear to the motor are all potential causes of your cart`s slow speed.
If there is a problem with your speed sensor, you might experience issues with the cart feeling sluggish or slower than normal. In addition, there can be problems with shifting gears, engine RPM issues and even an inability to shift.
To answer the main question, the typical electric golf cart lifespan is usually around 20 to 40 years. Just like any vehicle, this number is variable due to external factors and the amount of maintenance and upkeep you do.
Your golf cart`s speed controller is an integral part of the vehicle. It`s designed to measure out current and battery voltage to the motor so it can raise and lower the vehicle`s speed. It also monitors the overall state of the motor and generates signals to match the alternating currents.
The most common side effect on a gas golf cart is the starter failing to connect, resulting in the engine not turning over and a succession of useless tapping sounds. If your golf cart fails to turn on when you turn the key on, this is the most obvious sign of solenoid failure.
Upgrade Your Battery

Installing a new battery with a higher voltage is a quick and easy way to increase your overall power and speed for your golf cart. Changing the battery on your golf cart takes little to no time at all, and can be the difference in maximizing your golf carts speed.

How fast is a 36 volt golf cart? Without any upgrades, you can plan on max speeds between 12-14 mph.
Golf cart batteries must be charged after every use. Even if you only run your cart 10-15 min., be sure to plug it back in when you are done.
If the solenoid is broken and not working correctly, you may notice your golf cart won`t start, picking up speed, or even working at all (issues with acceleration could also be caused by a bad speed controller). As technology advances, solenoids are becoming more reliable.
While some will disagree, it`s never the best idea to leave your golf cart plugged in charging for long periods of time. This principle goes for any electronic device that uses a battery, or battery pack.
An electric golf cart may not be accelerating due to battery issues, loose connections, a faulty motor, controller, or solenoid. It`s recommended to have a professional inspect the golf cart`s electrical system to determine the underlying problem.
This can Also be tested by putting a test lead on each small terminal and pressing the gas pedal. The meter should read 36 V when the gas is pressed. If this voltage does exist when the gas pedal is pressed then the solenoid should click and engage.
Properly maintained 36-volt golf cart batteries should last between 3 to 5 years when used as a fleet cart at golf courses. Private owners who take good care of their 36-volt golf cart batteries can expect them to last between 5-8 years.
Lead-acid golf cart batteries last about two to five years with regular use, while lithium-ion golf cart batteries may last ten to 20 years with proper maintenance.
There should be a click from the solenoid once the current is properly supplied. If there isn`t a click, the solenoid coil is bad, and the solenoid needs to be changed. To diagnose the solenoid, use a multimeter to test the solenoid for its resistance and voltage.
After a few seconds, the computer controller will beep four times, indicating it has shifted into the freedom mode. Flip the run-tow switch back to “tow” and then “run” to escape the diagnostic setting mode. This enables freedom mode and allows the cart to reach a maximum speed of 19 mph. 9 people found this helpful.
Lithium batteries can increase the speed of a golf cart by providing higher voltage, energy density, and efficiency. However, the speed increase may vary depending on several factors, such as the weight of the golf cart, the type of terrain, and the battery charge level.
One of the most common battery-related problems with a golf cart is slow or “dead” batteries. When you`re on the course, it`s essential to have a reliable battery power source. However, corrosion, old age, and other factors can lead to poor battery performance – even if the batteries are relatively new.
If your cart does not start smoothly, hesitates before starting, or does not gain speed properly, these are all signs of a bad or damaged accelerator.
It should have a small reset button (Usually it will be red) located near the main battery supply. Hit the reset button and then put the cover back on the motor.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..

Take care

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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Pop-up camper lights all turn on when tow-vehicle lights are on
ANSWER : FIRST, make sure white wire of camper is grounded to the frame of tow-vehicle. Temporarily use a jumper-cable frame-to-frame. Then apply 12volts individually to each of the three circuits to the camper. Assuming a 4-wire flat connector — brown wire is for marker lamps; yellow is left brake/turn; green is right brake/turn

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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