Sport & Outdoor – Others

Battery & fuses good, but no power at ignition switch,

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The most common faults are the battery, battery cable, ignition switch, battery terminal, or a wiring harness fault. If the vehicle started properly before the ignition was removed and after the repair was completed the problems started then the fault may be related.
The Ignition Switch gets Power from Battery, which the Connection to the Battery is on the Battery side of the Starter Solenoid / Relay.
If the ignition switch fails while the engine is still on, it may cut off power to the ignition and fuel systems, which will cause the engine to stall. Depending on the exact issue, the vehicle may or may not be able to be restarted a short while later.
Worn ignition switch contacts, temperature problems, or broken springs can all cause the ignition switch to fail, preventing you from starting your car. On the road, poor ignition switch contacts could shut the engine off while driving, which could be dangerous.
If you don`t hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn`t crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner`s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.
Put the key in the run position, set the multimeter to 20 DC voltage, ground the black lead on any metal surface close by, and place the red lead on a connector at the opposite side of the ignition cylinder. If the multimeter displays a reading far from your battery voltage, the switch is bad.
The battery provides a current which travels to the ignition coil. The ignition coil magnifies this current. A spark is created from the generated electrical energy. The spark is distributed to each of the spark plugs by the distributor. Each spark plug ignites the fuel inside the cylinders of the engine.
Car suddenly stalls while operating: One of the most common symptoms of a failed ignition relay is a car that suddenly stalls while operating. If the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or otherwise fails while the engine is operating it will cut off power to the fuel pump and ignition system.
Often the terminals on the ignition switch are labeled for individual wires, such as BAT for the battery wire, IGN for the ignition switch power wire, ST for the starter solenoid wire, and ACC for the accessory power wire.
The dial reading should be 12 volts or more. Work the starter switch, and the reading should fall, but not below 10.5 volts. If the reading does not fall, there is a fault in the ignition-switch circuit or in the solenoid.
Fuse Check

Pop the hood and remove the cover of the fuse box. Here, you`re going to check the fuse for your ignition switch relay. The relay is responsible for regulating the electricity running from your battery to the ignition, so if it isn`t working properly, it can cause ignition issues.

Connect a voltmeter in series between the secondary winding of the ignition coil and a battery. If the battery is connected in the diode`s conducting direction, the voltmeter must display a voltage.
There are 4 main categories of ignition sources: thermal, electrical, mechanical and chemical.
Sources of ignition include electrical sparks, static electricity, naked flames, hot surfaces, impact, friction, etc.
Having all the lights go out completely when you crank is typical of loose terminals, loose ground, dead cell in battery, a really discharged battery, or a dead short somewhere. The volt meter will tell you alot.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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Razor E-100 – The toggle switch was broken, I replaced it with another lighted switch, but the switch won’t light. The motor runs o.k., why won’t the switch light when turned on? Thanks.
ANSWER : The Switch can be almost any but the lighted switch has to be a compatible 24vdc lighted switch.
As seen on this web page.

SWT-105

Razor E100 and E125 Electric Scooter Parts ElectricScooterParts com

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Hayward motor needs replacement toggle switch, and the motor has AO Smith on it…can i just replace it with a simple 3way toggle switch or do i have to purchase a pricy pool toggle switch?
ANSWER : You should be able to use just about any toggle switch; however, you need to ensure it is rated for the proper amperage. In other words, if your motor is rated for 10 FLA (Full Load Amps), you are going to want a switch capable of handling at least 15 FLA.

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Treadmill (powerfirst treadmill) shorting out power . overload switch shorting out power.? how can we fix this problem?
ANSWER : Check here with powerfirst spare parts
http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/parts-for-treadmill/treadmill-controllers/power-first-pf906-treadmill-controller.html

and also here for treadmill help in general
http://www.treadmillsrepair.co.uk/
http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/repair/repair.htm

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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