Whisperlite International Stove

Pump works but no fuel reaches the bowl.
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
The jet orifice may be plugged. If you can remove it and see if you can see light through it. If you cannot then it needs to be pricked. surely your stove came with a jet cleaning tool? To find out if it is the valve remove the gas jet and try opening and closing the valve to see if fuel flows. If it does it is the jet if it does not it may be the valve.

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The fuel is stored in the fuel tank and the fuel pump draws fuel from the tank. It then travels through the fuel lines and is delivered it through a fuel filter to the fuel injectors (carburetors and throttle body injection were used on older vehicles).
Typical causes for low fuel pressure include a dirty fuel filter, weak pump, incorrect tank venting, restricted fuel lines, a clogged pump inlet strainer and faulty electrical control.
Nearly every internal combustion engine has a fuel pressure regulator, which is either a continuous return fuel system in older vehicles or a returnless fuel system, as seen in most modern vehicles. Because the fuel pump delivers more fuel to the engine than it needs, a regulator is needed to control the flow.
A gasoline car typically uses a spark-ignited internal combustion engine, rather than the compression-ignited systems used in diesel vehicles. In a spark-ignited system, the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber and combined with air. The air/fuel mixture is ignited by a spark from the spark plug.
Fuel flows through a small metal fuel line from the tank to the engine. The flow of fuel to the engine is controlled by a fuel valve located on the fuel line.
The fuel flow control supplies the fuels at the exact quantity to satisfy the demand of the fuel firing rate; it is closely coordinated with the air flow control system to ensure that the stoichiometric ratio is maintained with some excess air flow throughout the combustion process.
Things like line bends and diameter, filter quality, and injector size can affect the fuel system pressure. Mismatching the rest of the fuel system components with the fuel pump can either increase or decrease fuel system pressure and immediately cause a decrease in overall performance.
Flow rate is the amount of fuel a pump can supply over time. It is usually measured in gallons per hour (gph) or liters per hour (lph).
Gas molecules are extremely small and typically move in straight lines until they collide with each other or with a surface. When a collision occurs between molecules they will move off in whatever direction that collision causes.
The sensor measures the volume of fuel entering with time and calculates the average flow rate based on that measurement. Calibration of this device ensures accurate measuring of fuel inputs at steady state conditions of fill rates, pressure and temperature.
Flow rate is usually measured in litres per minute, unless it is a heating oil application where the fluid is consumed much slower and is measured in litres per hour.
Fuel pressure for most vehicles should stay in a 5- to 10-psi range. But, techs should make sure to look at the service information for the specifications. Other data PIDs used to regulate the fuel pump include the engine position sensors.
Fuel Flow Meters and Liquid Flow Meters provide accurate flow rate measurement of fuel and other liquids. Used in Sea and River Vessels, fuel delivery in tanker trucks, high power diesel generator sets and boilers. They can be used for monitoring of heating of oil and other liquids.
The fuel pump performs the job of pumping fuel at the right time and quantity as needed by the vehicle. This code is defined as a Fuel Pump “A” Low Flow/Performance. Every vehicle has a Fuel Pump Control Module, which calculates the amount of fuel pressure needed for the engine so that it can run well.
Checking fuel pressure is an essential part of fuel injection system troubleshooting. High fuel pressure will make an engine run rich, while low fuel pressure will make an engine run lean or not at all.
Gas pump nozzles are designed with a device on the end that turn off the fuel flow when the gasoline runs back into it. This is a safety mechanism which prevents the gas from coming out and spilling when filling up the tank. Typically, this indicates that the tank is full.
The fuel pressure is monitored by the engine control unit via a pressure sensor and regulated via a flow control valve installed in the pump. This fuel pressure regulator is attached directly to the high-pressure pump.
A mechanical fuel-pressure regulator is a simple device. Inside, you have a spring that controls a diaphragm. That spring has a set spring rate and you regulate fuel pressure by adjusting tension on the internal spring.
Anything that is listed as less than 6-litres/100km or more than 16.5km/1-litre is considered to be pretty good. The first (and most common) reference is litres per 100km (litres/100km). This is how many litres of fuel the car needs in order to travel 100km. You`ll often see it referred to as `fuel economy`.
Yes: The alternator, which is powered by the engine, is what provides energy to the air conditioner. The engine runs on fuel, meaning you are using up gas when you run the AC. With that said, enjoying a bit of cool air doesn`t necessarily mean you`re being inefficient.
If spark plugs are misfiring or performing poorly, your gas mileage will be affected. Spark plugs are responsible for sparking engine combustion. They can`t do that if they aren`t working efficiently. Bad oxygen sensors and air filters can reduce gas mileage by as much as 20%!
Flow rate, also referred to as capacity, is the volume of liquid that moves through the pump and is measured in litres per minute. Anyone can get a good understanding of how flow rate works just by just turning on a tap. Flow rate describes the mass of liquid pouring through.
Gases are fluids, which means that they flow easily. Gas molecules are arranged randomly and can move freely at high speeds.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..

Take care

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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I have a 2006 polaris 400 sportsman atv and the fuel is not flowing through the fuel lines. We had found a line that was disconnected and reconnected it but there is still no fuel flow.
ANSWER : 1. You need to check the fuel pump. located in the fuel tank beneath the back seat.2. Replace the fuel filter because of possible blockages. located in the hood not too far from the battery.Good luck and rate this solution.Cheers.

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Fuel system problems
ANSWER : I believe the IO-550 has an electric fuel boost pump that is activated by throttle position. It might be that the micro-switch that activates the pump has been improperly set, causing the pump to turn on & off at cruise settings. The pump is there to make sure of sufficient fuel delivery at high power.

Bob

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09 kx250f fuel leak
ANSWER : Sounds like your carb is dirty inside. make sure its out of warranty first, (don’t want to void it), then pull off the bowl at the bottom of the carb and clean it. Try to avoid useing acetone based cleaners as this can sometimes ruin some seals/gaskets/components.

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I have a Husqvarna 570 that quit running, It idled for about 30 sec. and shut off. It has spart and the plug is wet, its getting fuel. Had the ignition tested and fuel lines. checked fly wheel and timing. Seems like it is getting too much fuel and after a few pulls fuel runs out of the exhaust?
ANSWER : Hi keachfamily4…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets or fuel passages but for sure under your inlet needle valve. This problem will cause fuel to come out of the exaust, and carburetor at times.
Follow the directions below and you will be able to get your Husqvarna 570 running again.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.Once you have your carburetor rebuilt and reinstalled that should solve your problem.
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My name is Elena Jones, and I am a blog writer who loves sports and fixing and troubleshooting sports machines.
I also love the challenge of fixing and troubleshooting sports machines. I find it satisfying to be able to take something that is broken and make it work again.