as to power through the wind, is this a design problem, it is ketch rigged.
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Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Yes, their windward performance isn’t that great – they were designed that way.

It was designed to have a secure, steady motion at sea, very forgiving for a novice, the hulls being “very reminiscent of the wooden Miller Fifers, themselves descended from North Sea fishing boats and the Norwegian Colin Archer ‘redningskoite’ sailing lifeboats” according to the official description. This is why the big motor is there, for in-wind navigation.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Paths That Cross: The power-driven vessel is the give-way vessel. The sailing vessel is the stand-on vessel. Overtaking: The vessel that is overtaking another vessel is the give-way vessel, regardless of whether it is a sailing vessel or a power-driven vessel. The vessel being overtaken is always the stand-on vessel.
Can a sailboat be propelled by air blown at the sails from a fan attached to the boat? Answer: No. When the fan pushes the sail by blowing air, the air also pushes the fan in the opposite direction.
Code zero is another name for a gennaker.

Not necessarily. The term gennaker can cover a code zero, screecher, or reaching spinnaker. Gennaker is just a general term for a potential downwind sail, a cross between a Genoa and an asymmetrical spinnaker.

A motorsailer is a type of motor-powered sailing vessel, typically a yacht, that can derive power from its sails or engine, independently from each other during moderate seas or winds.
Paths That Cross: The power-driven vessel is the give-way vessel. The sailing vessel is the stand-on vessel. Overtaking: The vessel that is overtaking another vessel is the give-way vessel, regardless of whether it is a sailing vessel or a power-driven vessel. The vessel being overtaken is always the stand-on vessel.
Essential sailing terms for beginners

` You can sail in any direction except directly into the wind, in the no go zone, about 40 degrees off the wind is about as close as you can get. So, if you want to sail upwind you need to zigzag from side to side of the no go zone.

Without having the winds in your sails, the boat will not move forward. Instead, you`ll only drift along and get stuck in the neutral. Worst still, you can easily capsize. As such, it`s of great importance to have a good grasp of how the wind works in propelling a sailboat and what you can do without it.
The Code D is a cruising spinnaker with a nearly straight luff that furls from the bottom up, just like a genoa. … Most Sailmakers has succeeded in developing an asymmetrical spinnaker that performs well from 80-degrees apparent wind angle to nearly dead downwind.
A Code 0 is almost like a large genoa, but it is not set on the headstay. Typically set on its own furler, it is basically a flat spinnaker that can be carried fairly close to the wind, say around 45 degrees apparent. Many Code 0`s are made from nylon, but some are made from a light laminate.
Sailboats will never compete with the speed of the dual engines of a powerboat. Most sailboats tap out at 7 knots, but power boats typically travel at speeds of around 15 to 20 knots on a calm day. Space. Powerboats have more space—more deck space and more interior space.
A Motorsailer that Actually Sails. 21st Century patented hull form. Upwind sailing performance: Sails at a fast 9 knots at a 35-40 degree angle in just 15 knots of wind.
Thus some efficiency of the shape is lost in creating the shape itself and so sails can`t fly as close to the wind as a wing. About the best angle off the wind that most sailboats can achieve is 30 degrees. Any less than this and the wing shape of the sail begins to deflate.
Last but not least other sailing terms you need to know are: Broad reach and Running. Have a drink and get ready to enjoy the holiday: the sails in the broad reach are eased out away and the point of sail is around 135 degrees and it is the most comfortable and stable one.
Head On – When two motor boats approach each other head on, both boats turn to the right and pass each other port to port. Sailboats When encountering sailboats that are sailing, motorboats generally should give way. If you are motoring in a sailboat, you should give way to sailboats that are sailing.
Give way to your starboard side. Powerboat A: When only red and green lights are visible, you are approaching a sailboat head-on. Give way to your starboard side. Powerboat B: When white, red and green lights are visible, you are approaching a powerboat head-on.
The correct answer to the question on motorboats crossing paths with a PWC, and what action should be taken is that the vessel on the left (port) hand side should be the one to give way.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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Fisher 30 sails well with wind on beam, but will not turn into the wind, owner has to power through a tack.
ANSWER : I sorry but i don’t really understand what it is that you need help with. please explain a little better and i’ll be happy to helpM.Woodring

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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I have a 1991 Yamaha 250 outboard motor. I can connect the harness from the control box to the motor harness, put the motor in nuetral, and the motor will turn over but it will not start. I can disconnect the conrol box from the motor, jump it direct from the battery, and it will start. What might be the problem? I even bought a new control box but still have the same problem.

Thank you,
Dean Youngstrand

ANSWER : I would check for power coming off of the ignition switch. The ignition switch is what sends power to the control box to the coil. You can also check for power on your coil. But I would bet that it is your ignition switch.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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