Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Bad gas. Drain and refill with fresh fuel/oil mixture.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Damaged belt – Cogged or non-cogged V-belts or flat belts drive the auger when the drive pulley or pulleys are engaged. If the belt or belts are worn, stretched, or broken, the auger won`t be able to rotate. You should inspect the belt or belts for any sign of wear or damage and replace with new ones if necessary.
Only Jiffy® Power Ice Drills use high-speed, single reduction gearboxes. These gearboxes turn the ice drills counter-clockwise. All other drills turn clockwise.
The Jiffy-7® pellet: fine netting is filled with high-quality substrate and then compressed to form a handy pellet. Just add water, and the little planting wonder grows to up to seven times its size in a few moments. It is held together by fine netting, ensuring optimum air/water exchange.
The cutting head of an auger machine cuts through the earth`s surface breaking it down into the sand and loose dirt. This dirt, or “spoil,” is drawn out of the tunnel by the action of the helical coils of the auger itself, which rotates in a steel casing. The spoil is discharged into the entry pit and then removed.
Using a cordless drill and a long, five-eighths inch wood auger bit, you can drill through eight inches of ice in less than 30 seconds. Most cordless drills that are at least 7.2 volts will work, but the type of bit is critical.
Use unleaded regular gas only. Run earth auger with a 50:1 ratio.
The Jiffy® Power Ice Drill gearbox is a single stage design with a 12:1, 15:1, or 24:1 gear ratio.
To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won`t run, replace the auger motor.
Sometimes, when you`re drilling through a harder surface or drier ground, your auger can get stuck. Pouring some water around the hole will allow the soil to loosen around the tool, giving you more wiggle room to slide it out.
Why won`t my auger go down into the ground? There are many variables, but the most common is that the ground is hard, and requires extra weight. The optional down pressure kit will help in this condition.
One-Person Power Augers

augers. One-person augers are generally powered by two-stroke engines, so the rental store should provide a container of premixed fuel along with the machine. If you`re boring more than just a few 8-in. holes, you`re better off rounding up a partner and the more powerful two-person machine.

Note: You can use a 40:1 gas-to-oil mixture even if your engine calls for 24:1. You`ll use less oil and your auger will run better and cleaner. Fresh, winter-grade gasoline will help your auger run better and cleaner as well. “Don`t run old gas,” Hawthorne says.
The Eskimo has two blades that dull quickly; whereas the Jiffy has one blade that is serrated and only needs to be sharpened every two years or so. The Eskimo does cut a little faster as long as the blades are sharp, but the jiffy can cut ten times the holes before it needs sharpening.
With the unit resting on the ground, squeeze the throttle trigger to wide open throttle or fast position. At the same time the trigger is depressed, pull the starter rope several times, 10 to 15 times back to back. (Flooded engine will usually only take 6 to 8 pulls to get engine started.)

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Starting my Mojave 250
ANSWER : I’m having the same problem I guess it popular in mojave I changed the plug and I still get Orange spark is there any ideas it won’t kick start when cold but once warm she runs great and will kick start

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My 50cc mini bike starts then dies 5 secs after starting. why?
ANSWER : It sounds like you may have 2 problems

Bad gas
dpossible loose spark plug( bad compression) Solutiondump out the gas put new inRemove the spar plug and examine the plug if it is wet and black it is fouledif it is white ad dry it is not getting gasIf you can replace the spark plug if not just clean it with a wire brush put back in and tighten Finally make sure the spark plug wire is not loseBest of luck to you

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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.

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I have a TX500, never been used (just out of the box) and had to get an electrician to my home for this problem. It will start rolling but quits in a few seconds. The electrician believes that it is a problem in the sensor that rides at the belt. There is only one sensor in the pulley; he thinks that perhaps there should be two as there is a hole placement opposite the one that is in there. When the belt quits, it goes to a number 3 on the board which he thinks is the sensor as well. If he is correct, where do we get another magnet to place there? If he is not correct, please offer help. We did not get a owners manual in the box and surely could use one; where can we get one? Please help…thankyou
ANSWER : Hello,I believe the best thing to do at this point is to look for a way to get the manual of the device, this will give a full guide and better understanding on how to fix this problem.Check maualnguide.com to search for the manual of the device, the link provides almost all manuals to all device.Take care.

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I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
ANSWER : Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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