My son took my remington 1100 3 inch magnum 12 gauge apart and i need to know how the pistons and seals and o ring are supposed to go back on

12 gauge shotgun shell converted to metric (ex. 12 gauge + 20mm)

I have two pair of Stern fishing waders which are breathable with neoprene stockings. Both are leaking at the stocking seams but the last time that my son took his off, the neoprene stocking nearly came totally off.
I’m assuming that I can repair mine which are still relatively intact with Aqua Seal. Do you agree?
But my main question is, do you think that I can reglue the dangling stocking with Aqua Seal and then hand stitch (with a through and through continuous suture pattern) the seam with a really strong suture and then seal the suture holes with Aqua Seal. I can probably have the skill and material availabililty but don’t want to waste my time if you think it won’t work.
Online I saw some fly fishers who probably grew up in the 60s talk about Pliobond (apparently very aromatic and good for a good high) as being a much stronger bonder than Aqua Seal. Do you know anything about that and about its availability ? – because of its potential for abuse, it may be hard to get.

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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I own a Maverick model 88, 12 gauge shotgun. Need plug

I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.

We have a pop-up with the sink that folds down. We need to replace the sink drain from the sink to outside, but the only flex drain hoses that I can find have a hose only 26 inches long. I know that will not be long enough to go from the sink to the outside of the camper.

Do you know if any place I can go to get a sink drain system with a longer hose. The contraption (I don’t know what it is called) at the base of the sink drain has rusted off so that the swivel part of the drain system is gone. We currently have a garden hose connected to the pipe coming directly from the drain, but when we close the camper, it pops off.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks

Michele