Casey Pro Baseball Pitching Machine

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The most common cause of motor failure, and arguably the most difficult to overcome, is low resistance. Low resistance is caused by the degradation of the insulation of the windings due to conditions such as overheating, corrosion, or physical damage.
Motors slow down when load is increased and will come to a stop if overloaded. Motors have to slow down in order to increase torque to deal with increased load, up to a point of overload when they will come to a standstill.
Motor gets hot and shuts down – Generally due to low voltage or being overloaded. Check that the motor is wired correctly. If the motor is configured for 230V and has 115V coming in, it will shut down after running 3-5 minutes. Check for loose connections.
By modulating or changing the timing of these pulses, the speed of the motor can be controlled. So, the longer the pulse is “ON,” the motor will rotate faster, while conversely, the shorter the time the pulse is “ON,” the slower the motor will rotate.
Motor Wiring and Number of Poles

More poles result in a lower motor speed: if all other factors are equal, a 4-pole motor will rotate at half the speed of a 2-pole motor. A 60 Hz power supply changes polarity 60 times per second, and a two-pole motor will spin at 3,600 rpm when connected to this source.

Motor performance depends on three elements such as voltage across terminals, resistance across terminals, and magnetic force.
If too many rotor bars are open, a loaded motor will draw amperes high enough to open its protection device. With no load, the amperes will be very low. Slow starting and lower-than-rated RPM are a sign of broken rotor bars.
Load Torque: For a fixed voltage, the speed of the motor is inversely affected by the load. Increase in load torque = decrease in speed.
There could be an issue with the battery or the electrical system for the vehicle to stall out randomly. Check the battery for any loose connections and to see if the battery is fully charged.
Jogging refers to repeated starting and stopping of a motor in short bursts to perform a particular movement such as moving a crane to a particular location. The motor is operated on full power. Jogging is moving the motor in small increments.
The resistor uses the energy of the electrons around the wire and slows down the flow of electrons.
Resistors are electrical components in an electric circuit that slow down current in the circuit.
There are several factors that can affect the speed of an object, including the force acting on the object, the mass of the object, the surface it is moving on, and the presence of friction or other resistive forces.
A DC motor`s speed is directly proportional to the input voltage. The higher the input voltage, the faster the output speed. The lower the input voltage, the slower the output speed. We can control the speed independently of torque by manipulating the supply voltage using a DC motor control unit.
The torque and speed relationship is inversely proportional since the rated output power of a motor is a fixed value. As output speed increases, the available output torque decreases proportionately. As the output torque increases, the output speed decreases proportionately.
Stalling is a condition at which a motor stops rotating even when there is sufficient voltage at it`s terminals. This condition occurs when the torque required by the load is more than the maximum torque (Breakdown torque) that can be generated by the motor.
If the capacitor is bad, the blower motor may run slowly or inconsistently, or overheat easily. If you notice that your blower motor works strangely or short cycles, make sure to contact professionals to inspect your capacitor.
Winding insulation breakdown and bearing wear are the two most common causes of motor failure, but those conditions arise for many different reasons.
A three-phase motor must be connected to the rated load voltage and load for proper working. If due to some reason, one phase of the motor gets disconnected, the motor will continue to run from the active 2-phase supply. This is called single phasing. The motor will continue to run with vibration and reduced speed.
Calculating RPM for a three phase induction motor is relatively simple… ACThree Phase Induction MotorRPMis determined by the formula: RPM = (120 * Frequency) / # of poles in the motor.
Assuming that the permanent magnet stays the same, torque is proportional to the number of winding turns on the stator pole multiplied by the input current. To increase the torque of a motor, either the winding turns or the input current will need to increase.
Common faults are the battery, alternator, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery cable, coil, or a wiring harness fault.
For DC motors, plugging is achieved by reversing the polarity of the armature voltage. When this happens, the back EMF voltage no longer opposes the supply voltage. Instead, the back EMF and the supply voltage work in the same direction, opposing the motor`s rotation and causing it to come to a near-instant stop.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again
ANSWER : Check to see if you have a spark -then check if you are still getting fuel-and how old is the fuel-because it is recommended ,an im assuming its a 2 stroke motor,that the fuel should be replace with a fresh 2 stroke mixture every couple of months as the mixture jellyfies and sludges up the carb etc-try those first

Machine will stop adjusting resistance. On start up the machine will usually work. I can go through the calibration procedure and it will calibrate and work normally for 4 or 5 resistance adjustments. It will then stop adjusting. It acts like there is a cable pulled and refuses to adjust, even though I am not getting the warning telling me to “Release cable”
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
ANSWER : I would think that your problem has possibly to do with a faulty power supply, component, see to my mind it is a thermal problem as it heats up,it goes faulty? The Voltage changes and it goes out of spec.. When left to cool, it then is OK… Usually, & from my experience this is a thermal problem. To see obtain some Freeze Spray, from radio Shack or similar,and spray components on the main power board, and others too, use it on any large heat sinked components and see if when you do this the fault clears. Then replace that component(s).

Or as you suggest the sensors that feed the inputs maybe with sensors though one has little option but to replace them and see if this clears the problem.

I HAVE A YORK STELLAR PLUS,MODEL PEUDD12N09501C 15 YEARS OLD. THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR RUNS FOREVER. THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR COMES ON , THE THE THERMOSTAT CALLS FOR GAS, THE IGNITOR LIGHTS THE GAS, FURNACE HEATS UP AND THEN THE LIMITER SHUTS OFF THE GAS BEFORE THE BLOWER COMES ON AND THEN THE AIR INDUCTION MOTOR RUNS, AND RUNS TILL THE DUCT WORK IS VIBRATING. THEN OTHER TIME THE FURNACE WORKS RIGHT THROUGH THE HEAT CYCLE JUST LIKE IT WAS DESIGNED TO.
ANSWER : This flame is not likely going off on a high limit due to clogged filters as suggested previously because the unit goes off on safety before the blower comes on. If it works sometimes and not others it is most likely a flame sense issue or an electronic problem. If the boards logic tells the inducer to keep running if it thinks the flame is lost this may be your clue. You can attempt to find the red LED trouble light on the circuit board(or in burner compartment) and this may tell you exactly what the problem is but you may need to tape the door interlock switch so you don’t loose the code when you open the blower compartment. You can clean flame sensor with very fine sandpaper or steel wool but replacement is usually the best.

I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

2005 Mercury 50hp 2-stroke outboard motor very sluggish when accelerating, stalled twice when trying to exceed 50% throttle capacity. Last time I used my boat was about two months ago, so I don’t think bad fuel is the problem. I let my boat idle at the boat launch for probably 5 mins before taking off. I didn’t notice any weird sounds or any indication that my motor was running any different than normal. After only a couple of minutes of running my boat up river I gave more throttle(probably 75% power) when it started to bog down. I immediatly kicked it out of gear and checked to see if something was caught around my prop but there was nothing there. From then on everytime I put the motor in gear and gave it throttle it would barely respond and stalled twice. Any suggestions to what this might be? Thanks, Newt.
ANSWER : The carberator is gravity fed and there is propbably gunk in it, when you give it more throttle, it needs more gas but can’t get it. Then a build up of gas in the float bowl occurs and nothing works right. It has happened to me and its aggravating, do a complete rebuild on the carb or just replace it and you will be happier quicker.

Hope this helps, Coachtheune

TC5000 and after extended use I smell burning and upon removing the belt cover and drive belt I felt of the motor on the motor side of the drive pulley and it was ”red-hot”, obviously the source of the smell of the burning. The motor spins freely without any rubbing noise. The drive pulley (motor side) and the tread pulley appear to be alligned. One curious thing is that the threaded motor output shaft is recessed about 3/8” from the outside edge of the pulley. Could it be the bearing on the pulley side of the motor? I am dumbfounded as to what the solution might be. Note that I could not enter the exact product as my model seemed to be invalid. My model is the TC5000. Thanks [email protected]
ANSWER : Just because it spins freely doesnt mean it cant have a shorted winding. Id send it back where it came from or at least replace the motor.