over pump hole 30 times. Seems like pressure has built up but no vapors going to mantle.
10′ X 10′ Sundome Tent 9160K101

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The problem of an appliance not lighting is usually caused by one of two things. Either the generator is clogged-up with soot, or the fuel & air tube is blocked by dirt or varnish. Lanterns. (go to stoves) Give it 30 or 40 pumps to really pressurize it well.
You may need to remove the frame and frame rest on a lantern if you have a valve leak. Leaks from the fuel filler hole. This is the most common reason for pressure loss and is usually caused by a deformed or dry rotted gasket in the cap. To fix it just replace it, if you can.
This usually means that the generator if not hot enough to handle the amount of fuel passing through it, which results raw gas or kerosene being fed to the burner. This collects on the inside of the burner until it ignites into a large flame.
Check the bug screen: Bug screens exist to block insects from getting into your gas lantern. If the screen becomes obstructed, there won`t be enough oxygen in your gas lamp and the flame will be smothered. Check your bug screen for obstructions and use air to clean it. If it won`t come clean, replace the bug screen.
Coleman recommends a shelf life of 5 – 7 years for liquid camp fuel if the container is unopened and full. If the vintage Coleman Fuel has been opened then its shelf life is reduced to around 24 months.
Pour in 1/4 of a tank or so of “HEET” (brand) or other alcohol based automotive fuel line cleaner. DO NOT use drug store alcohol because it contains water. Swirl the HEET around inside your stove/lantern and let it sit for 20 minutes, then empty the cleaner from your stove/lantern.
I usually pump 30-40, unless its a 200A or 242 with the smaller fount. When they are full of fuel usually not much more than 25. Then I add some more pumps after lightup to replace what was lost, just until I`m hjappy, but probably just 10 pumps, give or take.
Coleman Propane Lantern

propane cylinder will power the lantern for up to 4.3 hours on high and 9.25 hours on low.

Beyond replacing damaged mantles, American Gas Lamp Works recommends that you replace your mantles at least once per year.
Yes, with a match or lighter. Then let them rest 5 minutes to cool off then light lantern normaly. Once lit, allow lantern to operate a 1/2 hour or longer to finish seasoning the mantle.
A burn without mantles takes a little practice, and sometimes a picture taken at just the right time. It`s also kind of fun to take a lantern apart, fix it, and put it back together without breaking the mantles. Some buy cheap off brand mantles in bulk for testing.
Remove the lantern`s generator. Place your finger over the hole in the air intake tube where the generator just came out of. Use an air compressor to blow-out the burner assembly by holding the air nozzle under the burner cap(s) and blowing air up into the lantern.
Recommended operating pressure: Nat Gas 3.5-5″wc, Propane Gas 4-7″wc. Most all lanterns can be fitted with a bottom regulator and is highly recommended for propane installations.
Lanterns that are low or completely out of fuel can be re-fueled by adding the Lantern and one Thick Oil (or Power Coil for the Coil lantern) to a manual craft.
Reasons Why Your Light Bulb Keeps Blowing Out. Loose Connections – Loose connections cause bulbs to flicker, making it appear like they`re wearing out. Make sure bulbs are firmly screwed into their sockets. If the problem persists, the connection issue might be with the fixture`s wiring.
Wind Guard – Glass

Our glass wind guard can be used with any American Gas Lamp Works single open flame burner to provide extra protection from the wind around the burner.

Normally, the pressure inside a propane tank fluctuates slightly based on the outside temperature. For example, a standard 20-pound propane tank at 70 degrees will have 145 psi internal pressure. That same tank on a 100-degree day will have 172 psi of pressure.
The easiest way to know if a pressure regulator works correctly is to install a pressure gauge on each side of the regulator. You can measure the inlet pressure with a pressure gauge above the regulator, and the outlet pressure with a gauge below the regulator, as shown in the image below.
You`ll know it`s fully charged when the LED indicator turns green. Once charged, this lantern shines 400 bright lumens more than 12 meters on its high setting. With a runtime of up to 4 hours on high and 20 hours on low, the sun will come up long before you need to recharge.
Each 220g of butane, more or less, will last about 3 to 4 hours on low heat, meaning you can really get your money`s worth with this type of gas.
This lantern is very bright! Even with a single mantle. I love the kerosene, no need to worry about gasoline varnishing. As good as any Coleman lantern I have that is 50 years old.
Historically called white gas, it is a liquid petroleum fuel (100% light hydrotreated distillate), composed of cyclohexane, nonane, octane, heptane, and pentane.
Use warm soapy water and a soft cloth or sponge to clean it. DO NOT use an abrasive scrubber or chemical as you will scratch it and destroy luster. Cleaning glass. Use warm soapy water and a soft rag to clean lamp shades and lantern globes.
Re: pressure in gas lantern

Lanterns usually run between 20-40psi.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

I have had two small Coleman ‘Frontier PZ’ propane lanterns for a number of years with no problems. Last year one of them started shutting down for no apparent reason – it would light normally, burn for 4 – 5 minutes and then go out. This summer the second lantern has started doing the same thing. Changing gas cylinders seems to have no effect, nor does a new mantle fix the problem. It’s hard to be certain but as I can’t hear any gas hissing it’s as if the jet gets blocked after a few minutes alight. Turn off the gas, leave the lantern alone for a while and it will relight ok, though it will still only burn for a few minutes before going out again. Any ideas?
ANSWER : There is something in the jets or the piping to the mantels, you my find spider webing there, if you did no cap the port where the tank goes some small friends might have wanted to go camping with you.

I have a Coleman 228F model lantern. When I go to light it, it barely produces any gas. I have made sure it is pumped adequetly and full of new fuel. I can hear gas coming out very faintly and sometimes it sounds like it is sputtering, like something is blocking the fuel delivery. Any ideas where to look for a blockage? Any easy way to tell if it is a blockage or if its a bad part. This lantern has been in my parents garage for a while and hasn’t been lit for probably 10 – 15 years.
ANSWER : The other poster is right if it was left with fuel in it the fuel pickup is probably plugged. On this lantern the pickup is called a “Fuel Air Tube”. To test if its really plugged pull the generator (thats the brass tube with a nut on the bottom that runs up between the mantles and open the valve (do this outside, we expect fuel to come out). Fuel should POUR, or maybe even shoot out at that point. If it doesn’t you’ve definitely got plug down below. If you do: drain the fuel out, put in some carb cleaner or fuel system cleaner, pump it back up and open the valve to let some of the fuel system cleaner into the FA tube, then close the valve and wait a few days. Open the valve again and see if you’re getting more.If you don’t have a blockage you might have something in the air tube (thats the larger tube behind the generator) or the burner tubes (the things the mantles tie to). Or maybe you’re expecting something other than what really happens, when lighting the generator will kind of gurgle or sputter to indicate theres fuel present. You don’t want liquid fuel coming out of the generator’s gas tip, that would give you a big fireball when you tried to light the lantern…

I have a 1996 yamaha wave venture 1100….ran greatsat for 2 yrs..started but only ran for spray into carbs….drained fuel started and ran good. Started about month later and would only run as long as primed with starter fluids…checked fuel filter(ok)…fuel flow to fuel pump ok…output of fuel pump appears ok….but engine will only run as long as starter fluid/gas is sprayed into carbs. I don’t think it’s the carbs as it ran great a month ago…now it’s starving for gas flow….so it appears to be a fuel delivery problem…what would be the sequence of tests up to tearing into the carbs? is there a fuel filter inside the carbs? remember it fires off great when primed…until the fuel spray is consumed…
ANSWER : Check the on/off/reserve valve

This is the izh 513m .177 rifle. It’s brand new. I am not sure as of what to do and the hammer want budge and the trigger won’t pull. The barrel has no tension and it won’t go up like its supposed to.
ANSWER : This could be a factory safety that the hammer and trigger do not move while in the cocked position. The barrel may be locking down purposely. Look near the spring or in the path of the barrel where it folds back up and look for a release button. What do you see?

I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

I have a Husqvarna 570 that quit running, It idled for about 30 sec. and shut off. It has spart and the plug is wet, its getting fuel. Had the ignition tested and fuel lines. checked fly wheel and timing. Seems like it is getting too much fuel and after a few pulls fuel runs out of the exhaust?
ANSWER : Hi keachfamily4…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets or fuel passages but for sure under your inlet needle valve. This problem will cause fuel to come out of the exaust, and carburetor at times.
Follow the directions below and you will be able to get your Husqvarna 570 running again.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.Once you have your carburetor rebuilt and reinstalled that should solve your problem.
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