rate and work normally for 4 or 5 resistance adjustments. It will then stop adjusting. It acts like there is a cable pulled and refuses to adjust, even though I am not getting the warning telling me to “Release cable”
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
I would think that your problem has possibly to do with a faulty power supply, component, see to my mind it is a thermal problem as it heats up,it goes faulty? The Voltage changes and it goes out of spec.. When left to cool, it then is OK… Usually, & from my experience this is a thermal problem. To see obtain some Freeze Spray, from radio Shack or similar,and spray components on the main power board, and others too, use it on any large heat sinked components and see if when you do this the fault clears. Then replace that component(s).

Or as you suggest the sensors that feed the inputs maybe with sensors though one has little option but to replace them and see if this clears the problem.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

A 4:1 rule means that the length of the 95% probability interval for a measurement, i.e., 2×1.96×σM needs to be less than one fourth of the tolerance denoted by ±TOL, where σM is the measurement standard deviation2.
The standard formula of y = mx + b, where m designates the slope of the line, and where b is the y-intercept that is b is the second coordinate of a point where the line crosses the y-axis. We can modify this formula to use coefficients, and it would become Force = B1 * (Response) + B0.
A 4:1 TUR is the point to which most high-quality calibration labs strive. It is the point at which the level of in-tolerance probability stays at 100% the longest, with the best economies of scale.
This standard stated that when parts were being measured that the accuracy tolerances of the measuring equipment should not exceed 10% of the tolerances of the parts being checked. This rule is often called the 10:1 rule or the Gagemaker`s Rule.
A 3-point NIST calibration differs from a 1-point NIST calibration in the amount of points checked for their accuracy by a calibration lab, and thus the document that is generated. The 3-point calibration consists of a high, middle, and low check, and thus grants you proof of accuracy over a larger range.
Two point calibration provides a more accurate correction of the sensor output by re-scaling it at two points instead of just one. The process involves correcting both slope and offset errors. Two point calibration is best used in cases where the sensor output is reasonably linear over the full range.
Calibration is the act of comparing a device under test (DUT) of an unknown value with a reference standard of a known value. A person typically performs a calibration to determine the error or verify the accuracy of the DUT`s unknown value.
Calibration is the process of configuring an instrument to provide a result for a sample within an acceptable range. Eliminating or minimizing factors that cause inaccurate measurements is a fundamental aspect of instrumentation design.
The primary significance of calibration is that it maintains accuracy, standardization and repeatability in measurements, assuring reliable benchmarks and results. Without regular calibration, equipment can fall out of spec, provide inaccurate measurements and threaten quality, safety and equipment longevity.
The error is calculated by determining the difference between the actual output measured and the ideal output for a particular input value.
Calibration Factor: A measure of the

chromatographic. response of a target analyte relative to the mass injected.

By ISO/IEC GUIDE 99:2007, calibration is an operation that establishes a relation between the quantity values and corresponding indications. A calibration may be expressed by a statement, calibration function, calibration diagram, calibration curve, or calibration table.
Simply put, this means that the standard is 4 times more accurate that the tool being calibrated. A test accuracy ratio of 1:1 indicates the UUT and the standard have the same tolerances. A TAR of less than 1:1 (0.5:1 for example) indicates the UUT is more accurate than the standard.
The lowest calibration limit is the minimum mass in the measured series of calibration points. It is calculated from the confidence interval of the inverse of the calibration function as the lowest mass limit that may be differentiated from zero mass with a preset probability of error.
The temperature requirement for electrical or electronic calibration is typically about 73 degrees Fahrenheit (23 Celsius).
There are two main ways of calibrating an instrument – these are the working curve method and the standard addition method.
There are four levels of measurement (or scales) to be aware of: nominal, ordinal, interval, and ratio.
With a 1-point NIST calibration, the unit or sensor is calibrated to guarantee accuracy at a specific temperature. A certificate of 3-point calibration to NIST standards differs only in the number of data points checked during the calibration process.
There are four levels of measurement (or scales) to be aware of: nominal, ordinal, interval, and ratio.
Measuring the length and breadth of objects in metric. In science, we always measure in the metric system of units. The standard unit for measurement of length is meter. Apart from the meter, we have various units such as a meter, kilometer, millimeter, feet, inches, and so on.
Simply stated the “Rule of Ten” or “one to ten” is that the discrimination (resolution) of the measuring instrument should divide the tolerance of the characteristic to be measured into ten parts. In other words, the gage or measuring instrument should be 10 times as accurate as the characteristic to be measured.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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I have had two small Coleman ‘Frontier PZ’ propane lanterns for a number of years with no problems. Last year one of them started shutting down for no apparent reason – it would light normally, burn for 4 – 5 minutes and then go out. This summer the second lantern has started doing the same thing. Changing gas cylinders seems to have no effect, nor does a new mantle fix the problem. It’s hard to be certain but as I can’t hear any gas hissing it’s as if the jet gets blocked after a few minutes alight. Turn off the gas, leave the lantern alone for a while and it will relight ok, though it will still only burn for a few minutes before going out again. Any ideas?
ANSWER : There is something in the jets or the piping to the mantels, you my find spider webing there, if you did no cap the port where the tank goes some small friends might have wanted to go camping with you.

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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