the backboard yet. Does it need to be connected first.
71729 In Ground Basketball Hoop

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
It takes a lot of force to move that shock. Connect it first.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

If a gas spring has lost its force, in the vast majority of cases this is due to defective seals. Dried-out seals cannot be replaced – so the whole gas spring has to be replaced. Gas springs must be stored and fitted with the piston pointing downwards and at 45 degrees to the horizontal.
If your gas strut will not compress you need to let more gas out of it. The pressure is too high for the strut to compress under the weight of the door. If all the gas has been released out of the strut and it still won`t compress it is likely that your struts have been overextended.
Insert the blade of the screwdriver under the metal clip at about a 45-degree angle and slightly pry to dislodge the clip until you can pull the gas spring away from its attached ball stud. Do not fully remove the clip. Repeat the process at the other end.
Compression Gas Springs

This type of spring is designed to push back directly against any compacting force applied to them. This makes them ideal for a wide range of uses, particularly where strong resistance or motion damping is needed.

When installing a gas strut it should be on a sixty degrees or less tilt with the cylinder the highest point not the shaft. This is because the Gas Strut cylinder houses a small amount of oil in charge of keeping the seal lubricated and oiling the shaft as it passes through the seal.
To open the gas lift bed, use the safety strap(s) to start the upward motion. You will find that the pistons will then do most of the heavy lifting for you and the mattress will glide up to reveal the storage space underneath.
– The gas strut should always be fitted with the piston pointing down. – Use suitable end fittings and angle joints to avoid coupling jamming. – Gas strut are maintenance free, do not grease or lubricate shaft. – Install without twisting.
The force of gravity always acts downward; its magnitude can be found as the product of mass and the acceleration of gravity (m•9.8 N/kg).
When a spring is stretched or compressed, so that its length changes by an amount x from its equilibrium length, then it exerts a force F = -kx in a direction towards its equilibrium position. The force a spring exerts is a restoring force, it acts to restore the spring to its equilibrium length.
Gas springs are self-contained units that require no periodic maintenance or service beyond being kept clean and dry. Lubrication of the spring is internal and no external lubrication is required. Repair of gas springs is not possible as loss of force is caused by main seal damage and gas springs should be replaced.
Struts contain nitrogen gas under pressure and some oil to damp movement and to lubricate the seals. Operating pressures are typically in the range of 1700 to 15200 kPa (250 to 2 200 psi).
While most people can compress a lower pound pressure spring by hand, you should never try to compress a gas spring to install it. You should always manually raise your lid or cover to the designed open angle and then connect your gas spring to the mounting points.
Do not lubricate a gas strut. They contain oil for damping and self-lubrication. Do not puncture or incinerate.
The force required to hold the lid open (F1) can be calculated using the formula: Gas Spring Force (F1) = Mass of lid x Centre of Gravity / Radius of Force x Number of Springs. The calculations show that the closer towards the hinge the moving mounting point gets, the higher the opening force required.
Do not scrub with abrasive material. Stabilus Gas Struts and Gas Springs are maintenance-free! Lubrication is internal. They are designed for their corresponding applications and should work flawlessly for many years.
Gas struts are also known as gas springs, in the UK we tend to refer to them as gas struts, but the term is interchangeable usually depending on where you live. A gas strut uses the pressure within it to generate movement and push the lid open. Damping is used at the end of the stroke to slow the motion down.
There are two basic types of gas lift in use today—continuous and intermittent flow.
In the petroleum industry, the process involves injecting gas through the tubing-casing annulus. Injected gas aerates the fluid to reduce its density; the formation pressure is then able to lift the oil column and forces the fluid out of the wellbore.
Using the Allen key provided undo the grub screw until gas can be heard escaping. Then re-tighten the grub screw. Only release the gas in one second bursts to avoid releasing too much gas. Repeat the process until the gas strut is behaving as desired.
The basic principle of a gas spring is the same as for a mechanical coil spring; it is a device for storing energy. However, rather than straining the material that makes up the coil spring, a gas spring stores energy by compressing the Nitrogen gas contained inside.
Keep the strut at an appropriate angle — generally between 45 to 60 degrees to the vehicle. Angles wider than 45 degrees offer tremendous lateral support but become ineffective at supporting any vertical loading.
In general, the length to choose for gas struts is about 55% of the height of the Hatch you are trying to keep open. So if you have a door that is 1000 MM in height a 550 MM long gas strut would be about right. In simple terms, we are talking half the door height plus a bit when determining optimal gas strut length.
Yes. The inner volume of the gas strut is closed to the outside. This means that the filled gas volume can only occupy the free space in the pressure tube that is not needed for components or oil. By pushing the piston rod in, this free space [V] is reduced by the inserted piston rod volume.
Pulling down on a spring will cause an extension of the spring downward, which will in turn result in an upward force due to the spring. It is always important to make sure that the direction of the restoring force is specified consistently when approaching mechanics problems involving elasticity.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
ANSWER : Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter

Need the wire diagram to rewire my Ariens lawnmover to bypass the safety switch. It is Ariens GT-19 model # 931026 Serial # 001463.
Can you help? It is an old Ariens mower but still runs good but now I need to bypass the safety switch in order to run it any longer. The local Ariens dealer said I need to go through the internet and get the wire diagram as they cannot give it to me directly. They told me I needed the wire diagram and the part involved in bypassing the safety switch. Hope this is all the information you need to help me.

Thank you. Roger Fielitz

ANSWER : Here is owner manual:http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/030305C.pdfusually the switch is behind the ignition, sometimes at the N position of gearshift, just look for a switch with one wire coming in & one going out (usually the same color); disconnect the two wires & jumper them together to bypass the switch. Looks like yours has one under the seat.

We have a pop-up with the sink that folds down. We need to replace the sink drain from the sink to outside, but the only flex drain hoses that I can find have a hose only 26 inches long. I know that will not be long enough to go from the sink to the outside of the camper.

Do you know if any place I can go to get a sink drain system with a longer hose. The contraption (I don’t know what it is called) at the base of the sink drain has rusted off so that the swivel part of the drain system is gone. We currently have a garden hose connected to the pipe coming directly from the drain, but when we close the camper, it pops off.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks

Michele

ANSWER : Hi mj2181,I would say your problem should be solved easily with a hose extension , if you can get the extension and then use it , it should be ok for you and there should be no need to get a sink drain system with a longer hose.An example of an extension hose can be found on this link :- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/7174401GS/0071/580?sid=SPDx20101101xNXTGHope this helps ,

I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.

http://www.spaguts.com/SpaHeaters.aspx

I own an 1992 Yamaha Phazer II PZ 480. I have done a bunch of work trying to get this hunk o stuff going. I have good spark and compression from the motor. I rebuilt both carbs and both clutches it starts and runs fine but when I try to move it just boggs down- no power? Where should l look next to get this thing moving again? I work at a Marina that used to service sno-mobiles so I have the tools to get it done. Could you maybe send me an assembly diagram of where to look and what to do next? Thanks
ANSWER : For an assembly diagram, contact Yamaha directly.

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer