[SOLVED] I Would Like To Install A Battery Cut Off Switch To My Power Boat. How Do I Do This?

Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:

Disconnect your battery. Install your kill switch where desired…..some will have it close to control panel. Some may install it in a descreet place. Wire the switch to “break” the positive wire……in other words, wire the positive cable (that your removed from your battery) to your kill switch. Then the other side of the kill switch will run to the positive terminal of your battery.

Click HERE for additional help to include how two battery cutoff switches for boats.

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A battery disconnect switch cuts off the connection between a battery and accessories that can drain it. It lowers the chances of the battery malfunctioning and protects it against electrical fires and theft.

If properly worn, this safety device can shut off the engine if the operator falls off the vessel or is thrown from the proper operating position. A lanyard connects the ECOS to the operator`s wrist or PFD. When the lanyard is removed from the switch, the engine will shut off.

Not all boats have marine battery switches, but almost all boaters could benefit from one. Because boats have so many electrical components (trolling motors, fish finders, radios, etc.), many have multiple battery banks regardless of whether they`re a “house” boat.

A battery disconnect switch can be installed on the negative or positive leads of a battery and it will effectively disconnect the whole circuit. However, installing the switch on the negative lead adds additional safety.

(ˈkʌtɒf dɪˈvaɪs ) a device that terminates the flow or supply of something.

MOUNTING: Switch should be located as close to (within 40”) the batteries as possible. The battery and starter cable should be as short as possible. Mount on a flat surface in an area that will remain dry and is protected from abuse.

When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative.” When you are replacing your car battery, It isn`t always easy to remember the order in which to disconnect and reconnect the terminals.

They help to prevent overcharging and uneven battery drainage, which can significantly extend the lifespan of your batteries. Moreover, using a battery isolator or separator can improve the efficiency of your charging system and reduce the risk of electrical problems on your boat.

Install the disconnect switch on the negative battery cable: Installing the switch on the negative side of the battery reduces the potential for sparking, just as connecting the negative battery cables AFTER connecting the positive cables reduces problems with electrical fireworks.

Many stock-car rule books call for the switch to be on the negative side, while the NHRA demands it be on the positive side. So if you`re putting in the switch to pass tech, you`re going to want to do some reading of the rules before you start. Some prefer to put the switch on the negative side for a safety reason.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I would like to install a battery cut off switch to my power boat. How do I do this?

ANSWER : Disconnect your battery. Install your kill switch where desired…..some will have it close to control panel. Some may install it in a descreet place. Wire the switch to “break” the positive wire……in other words, wire the positive cable (that your removed from your battery) to your kill switch. Then the other side of the kill switch will run to the positive terminal of your battery.

Click HERE for additional help to include how two battery cutoff switches for boats.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?

ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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2005 Mercury 50hp 2-stroke outboard motor very sluggish when accelerating, stalled twice when trying to exceed 50% throttle capacity. Last time I used my boat was about two months ago, so I don’t think bad fuel is the problem. I let my boat idle at the boat launch for probably 5 mins before taking off. I didn’t notice any weird sounds or any indication that my motor was running any different than normal. After only a couple of minutes of running my boat up river I gave more throttle(probably 75% power) when it started to bog down. I immediatly kicked it out of gear and checked to see if something was caught around my prop but there was nothing there. From then on everytime I put the motor in gear and gave it throttle it would barely respond and stalled twice. Any suggestions to what this might be? Thanks, Newt.

ANSWER : The carberator is gravity fed and there is propbably gunk in it, when you give it more throttle, it needs more gas but can’t get it. Then a build up of gas in the float bowl occurs and nothing works right. It has happened to me and its aggravating, do a complete rebuild on the carb or just replace it and you will be happier quicker.

Hope this helps, Coachtheune

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?

ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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New battery just put boat in water always had a solar powered charger on battery took it off about a week ago today went to start boat battery dead. I do not know if it has altanator or what have a friend mechanic says he has a meter to test whatever, if you can send what to tes & numbers of tests & what might be bad or not hooked up. Thanks Brown

ANSWER : You will need to do 3 tests:

1 – you must find out if you have a short in the wiring: disconnect the + cable from the battery and put an ampermeter in there to close the circuit; if a current is detected it means that you have a short and it will drain the battery. To locate the short start disconnecting wires and look at the meter – when you will disconnect the wire that goes to the failed wire or part the current will stop flowing; find the faulty part and fix or replace it.2 – you must find out if the alternator is charging the battery correctly: start the motor, wait for half an hour then measure the voltage on the battery. If it’s below 14.1 volts then the alternator is failing and it will have to be replaced.3 – you must find out if the battery is in good working order: after the second test has finished shut down the engine and disconnect the battery; wait one hour and measure it -if the voltage on it has dropped to below 11.8 volts then the battery has aged and it’s no longer holding the charge so replace it.

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I would like to hook up a 12 volt battery to the trailer. In the cupboard below the propane stove is a plug with white, black and orange wire to it.
In the AC power converter cupboard I have a plug with a black and orange wire. How do I hook up the battery so that it charges and runs the fridge while I’m driving, and lets me use the lights with the fridge on propane while I’m camping?

ANSWER : You haven’t told us what trailer you have, what DC-AC converter you have, it the wire is original or aftermarket and what gage it is.

Because of that you must first identify the wires. You will need a multimeter for that. Start by finding if your trailer has a negative wire or is using the chassis as the ground. For that disconnect the battery from the truck (make sure you have the radio code handy) then measure the resistance between the 3 wires and the body of the truck – you will find the ground wire when the resistance will be close to 0. Reconnect the battery and measure the voltage between the ground wire and the other 2 – the one with 12v on it is the power one and the other goes to the power input of the converter. Check that by removing the converter and looking where they are plugged – if you have any doubts that they are not the wires from the cupboard just check their continuity.All of this is a 5 minute job. Once you know the wires just connect the ground on to the minus and the power and the converter ones to the plus.

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