thing works but only off the battery.. The add says that it has a bad inverter? And the guy really doesn’t know why the 110 doesn’t work…. Now is this sound like a bad inverter?? I want to live in this and I want to run the fridge and lamps and microwave and clock…. U know things that need 110 I don’t want to run the fridge off of propane and would like to be able to use the outlets that are in it and I don’t know the difference of an inverter or a converter… Which one is way more exspensive than the other????
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How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The most common reason for why your battery can be charged while your rig receives no power from it is due to the breakers. If the circuit breakers tripped and did not reset on their own, no power will come from the battery.
You can get two types of gas generators for RVs: a portable generator or a built-in onboard generator. Onboard systems draw fuel from the RV`s chassis, although some will also have an onboard fuel tank or use a propane system. These machines have been the standard for powering RVs for a long time.
Check your RV house batteries are charged and connected. Also check for corrosion. If your batteries are good, then confirm your RV power inverter is turned on. The inverter transforms the 12 volt DC electricity from your RV batteries into 120 volt AC electricity delivered to the RV`s electrical outlets.
In some cases, the RV breaker may be tripped and could prevent you from getting power to your RV. To fix this issue, you`ll first need to connect to shoreline power. From there, use your RV`s manual to locate the RV breaker. Reset the RV breaker and reconnect to shoreline power.
One of the most common reasons the battery light comes on and the car battery stops charging is because of corrosion. Whether the corrosion is on the battery cables or cable terminals, it is still a problem that needs to be addressed. Another common culprit for the battery not charging is a problem with the alternator.
The first place to check if your AC isn`t working would be the circuit breaker. Often times, the breaker has been tripped, impeding your AC`s ability to work. A quick fix for this is to simply find the circuit board and reset the system.
RVs need to convert that power into 12-volt direct current, or DC power, to make use of it. That`s where an RV converter comes in.
A 50 amp plug has four prongs – two 120 volt hot wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire – that supply two separate 50 amp, 120 volt feeds.
A 30-amp RV plug will only work on a 110-volt circuit because it only has three prongs, and on a 220volt, a 50-amp circuit has four prongs.
An RV converter takes in 120V AC power and alters the voltage, turning it into 12V DC power that can be stored in RV batteries. This converting and charging action leads some RVers to refer to converters as “battery chargers”.
Most of the time there are no fuses for trailer lights on the trailer. The power comes from the vehicle and you will find the fuese in the vehicles wiring. Find the tow vehicles fusebox and look for fuses designating trailer.
Turn Signals on Trailer Not Working When Running Lights are On The most likely cause for the turn signals not to work when the running lights are on with your trailer is a bad or weak ground. It`s very possible that a weak ground connection can be just strong enough to allow sufficient current for some…
Larger RVs like motorhomes, 5th wheels, and long travel trailers may come with two AC units – one in the living area and one in the bedroom area. The RV air conditioner`s thermostat will likely have two zones, one for each AC unit.
Air conditioners work on basically the same principle as the cooling units of kitchen refrigerators. Their cooling efficiency is way higher though. In either system a refrigerant extracts heat from the space to be cooled and dissipates it to the outside. An RV air conditioner should additionally reduce the humidity.
Camper air conditioning units are closed systems and have no refill point. If an Open Road RV Repair technician or any RVIA Certified Technician tests your system and determines that the issue is low refrigerant charge the only option is replacement of the rooftop assembly.
Perform a power reset (or hard reset) to clear information from the computer`s memory without erasing personal data.
A good RV battery should have at least 12.7 volts. If it has anything less than that, it needs to be replaced or recharged. Healthy RV batteries will have between 12.4 and 12.8 volts, so if yours is below that range, it may be time for a replacement.
The connection between the car and the bike carrier, trailer, caravan, boat trailer or horsebox is created by putting the plug of the object you wish to tow in the socket on your car. The two plugs that are most common are the 7-pin and 13-pin plugs.
An inverter is good to have on hand no matter where you camp because you just never know what may happen. If you like to boondock or camp in places that don`t offer electrical hookups, and you have luxury items such as a TV, computer, air conditioner, or a microwave, you`ll need an inverter.
This might lead you to believe a battery is necessary to use any of the things on your DC system, and that would be a logical conclusion. Fortunately, it`s incorrect. An RV converter will continue to work even without a battery in place as long as you are plugged into shore power.
As said before, plugging 110V into a 220V supply will cause a higher current to pass thru. The appliance causing either a fuse to blow or even circuit breaker to trip.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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I have a wildwood le 25bhbs and the only towing lights working are my signal lights. can’t get running lights or brake lights to work. I saw where it looked like the towing harness may have been pinched. So I repaired that, but, they still do not work. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere I need to check? Do I need to hook the trailer up to my trailer hitch before they will work? Is there a wiring diagram or repair manual somewhere I can get? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
ANSWER : There should be an inline fuse, check that first.

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I would like to hook up a 12 volt battery to the trailer. In the cupboard below the propane stove is a plug with white, black and orange wire to it.
In the AC power converter cupboard I have a plug with a black and orange wire. How do I hook up the battery so that it charges and runs the fridge while I’m driving, and lets me use the lights with the fridge on propane while I’m camping?
ANSWER : You haven’t told us what trailer you have, what DC-AC converter you have, it the wire is original or aftermarket and what gage it is.

Because of that you must first identify the wires. You will need a multimeter for that. Start by finding if your trailer has a negative wire or is using the chassis as the ground. For that disconnect the battery from the truck (make sure you have the radio code handy) then measure the resistance between the 3 wires and the body of the truck – you will find the ground wire when the resistance will be close to 0. Reconnect the battery and measure the voltage between the ground wire and the other 2 – the one with 12v on it is the power one and the other goes to the power input of the converter. Check that by removing the converter and looking where they are plugged – if you have any doubts that they are not the wires from the cupboard just check their continuity.All of this is a 5 minute job. Once you know the wires just connect the ground on to the minus and the power and the converter ones to the plus.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.

http://www.spaguts.com/SpaHeaters.aspx

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