I tried and it is not coming off to easy. I don’t want to apply any more pressure on it and break it if it’s not the correct way to change it. Any pointers?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
I strongly suggest using a padded vise and supporting the whole assembly with the motor elevated above the head while doing this to prevent small pieces from falling down into the motor and circuit board. It comes apart in the head. You pull off the top cover. Then the cables and cable drum come off. Then you drill out the rivets holding the pinion gear on. You can get replacement rivets from the same source as you get your bearing. They are a 1/8 rivet 5/16 or 1/2 long stainless steel pop rivet. I believe. Do not use an aluminum rivet. It will break on you under use. Do not use a steel rivet. It will rust. I bought stainless rivets from a bulk supplier, but if you are just doing one motor its easier to just pay the outrageous price for the “MotorGuide” rivets. Anyway, after you have the head apart the motor and lower shaft will slide right out of the upper shaft. Replace cup and bearing as needed. Reassemble in reverse order.

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The safest way to increase the speed of the boat is to duplicate the propulsion system, i.e. add another battery, trolling motor, and whatever else goes with it.
Add Ground Wire

Adding an external ground wire from the Minn Kota lower unit to the trolling motor battery negative/ground and depth finder battery negative/ground will help prevent interference.

Add Ground Wire

Adding an external ground wire from the Minn Kota lower unit to the trolling motor battery negative/ground and depth finder battery negative/ground will help prevent interference.

However, if the shaft is too long, the propeller creates turbulence deep beneath the boat that will spook any nearby fish. And if the shaft is too short, the prop won`t be adequately submerged, which will create noisy chop in the water and also scare away the fish.
Typical trolling speeds vary from 2.4 to four kph (1.5 to 2.5 mph) for trout, and 1.9 to 2.9 kph (1.2 to 1.8 mph) for kokanee. However, when trolling plugs or bucktail lures, you can speed up to as much as 5.6 kph (3.5 mph).
As a general rule, we recommend a 110 amp hour (Ah) rating per battery for 6-8 hours of runtime. If you have a lower Amp Hour rating, you will want to calculate the runtime for your motor.
A NLGI 2 grade grease is the most commonly used in electric motor applications.
Tighten prop nut 1/4 turn past snug, [25-35 inch lbs.]. Caution: Over tightening can damage prop and bend the drive pin. Caution: DISCONNECT THE MOTOR FROM THE BATTERY BEFORE BEGINNING ANY PROP WORK OR MAINTENANCE.
Propeller pins are designed to break when the prop gets caught on debris or underwater obstructions. They are designed to break to prevent damage to the armature and other parts of the lower unit of the motor.
Once you`ve readied the new propeller, you`ll need to install it onto your boat`s shaft. To do this, start by tightening down the nut on the back of your boat`s engine until it is snug. You want to make sure that you don`t over tighten this nut as this could cause damage to your boat`s engine or drive shaft.
Removing Your Boat Propeller: Step #1

Now, you`ll need a socket, usually 1 1/16” will do the trick, but if you have a socket set, we recommend having that handy as not all sizes are the same and can vary by manufacturer.

Nuts are just as tight as when the went on. In aviation a nylon lock nut is one time use. On a boat, if you thread it on and you still feel resistance at the nylon I would say your still good to use it. I have never replaced the prop nuts on my drive.
Often times simply removing the prop, rotating it 180 degrees, and re-installing it will lessen or eliminate the incidence of vibration. If this does not correct the problem then you should contact your local Minn Kota Service Provider for an evaluation.
Submersion Rule: You`ll want the top of the motor submerged at LEAST 12″ under the water to ensure adequate power and to prevent noisy cavitation which will scare fish.
Engine calibration alters a vehicle`s engine parameters to align with the way the vehicle is used. The result is a vehicle working more cost-effectively and efficiently, which means lower fuel costs, improved safety, greater productivity, longer vehicle life, and a better bottom line.
In our experience, both MotorGuide and Minn Kota make quality products that you can count on. Both have a long tradition of making well-known trolling motors, and both lines are still manufactured in the United States.
The jumper wire used should be one size larger than the Trolling Motor lead wire. Connect positive (+) red lead (from motor) to positive (+) terminal on battery 2. Connect negative (-) black lead (from motor) to negative (-) terminal of battery 1.
The standard shaft length is 42″. To determine the right length for your boat, measure the distance from where the shaft is mounted on the deck or the transom to the water. Then add 16″ (for MotorGuide) or 20″ (for Minn Kota) and select the next closest measurement.
While engines can scare fish, trolling motors are not the same as a two-stroke outboard engine. Trolling motors are actually designed to help you move without scaring the fish, too much. However, there are some fish, such as crappie, that will be scared by a trolling motor in shallower water.
The shaft length on a trolling motor is measured from the base of the motor head down the the top of the motor compartment.
Shaft adapters and extenders attach to the end of a motor`s shaft to increase the shaft diameter, convert the shaft thread size, or increase the shaft length. These adapters provide more mounting options for motors.
For a trolling motor speed determined by a factor of prop pitch and motor R.P.M. Thrust is simply a static measurement of pushing or pulling power, and higher thrust does not necessarily mean greater speed.
A 100Ah lithium battery will last for 1.85 hours or 1 hour 51 minutes on that trolling motor at full speed.
They typically last around 2-3 years and may require some sort of maintenance.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c
ANSWER : Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse

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I just purchased this Yamaha boat w/Twin MR-1 140hp motors, less than 100hrs (60 prox)and the starboard motor only reached 8000rpm on a 10000 redline spec (the port motor reaches 10000rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs immediatly and now the motor reaches 9500rpm. When the plugs were replaced the plug wire top of the plugs had a black powder residue (like graphite)and #1 & 4 plug electrode end were black minimal soot and #2 & #3 had a white color residue on the ceramic.

Any suggestions to attain the full 10000rpm?

A Yamaha dealer is 100 miles, so I would like to fix myself if possible. Thanks

ANSWER : I never rec’d an answer…..I WANT A REFUND!

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Cant remove top of barnet diablo slingshot
ANSWER : Try to watch this video, it may help:

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I have a 1997 motor guide wireless 24volt Big Water trolling motor. hooked it up to the batteries and put in a new 9volt battery in the foot pedal. the lights come on on top of the motor head and the foot pedal beeps, but the prop doesnt turn or spin (like there is no power to the bottom of the motor) any suggestions to what the problem is or how to fix it? (just bought the motor from a lady who’s husband died. dont have any manuals)
ANSWER : Hello there, as you said the power does not get to the bottom of the motor. The motor could be faulty or just completely bad. First you have to determine that the motor is good until you can determine this it is quite impossible to determine if there can be any fix. Take out the motor and try to power it on its own if it works fine then the problem is not from the motor but most likely the problem is from the motor. Let me know what your findings are. Hoping to hear from you soon.
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

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Do you like buying sports jerseys?
ANSWER : That’s really cool. I was in need of custom printed hockey uniforms. I need it in bulk so that i could use it for our team.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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