ing the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
Sport & Outdoor – Others
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I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
The most common reasons for a pool pump circuit breaker to trip are an overloaded motor, underrated pump breaker, bad motor windings or other earthing issue, moisture in the motor or moisture in the wiring.
One of the most common reasons why a pool filter is not working properly is because the pressure gauge is reading high. This means that there is too much pressure in the filter, and it needs to be relieved. To do this, you will need to open the air relief valve on the filter.
With virtually no maintenance, your sand pump only needs replacement every five years. This sand pump features a powerful motor, 6-function control, and a built-in automatic timer. It is an excellent upgrade to the filter cartridge system on your Intex Above Ground Swimming Pool.
– The sand is clogged
Over time, sand can become clogged with dirt and debris. This can reduce the efficiency of the filter and cause it not to work properly. To clean a clogged sand filter, backwash the system and then add fresh sand.
The water poured into the top of the filter slowly drips through the holes in the diffuser, and flows down through the sand and gravel. Treated water flows out of the outlet tube. No power is required – the filter works by gravity. It should take about 1 hour to get 12-18 litres of filtered drinking water.
Pool sand filters and kidneys play similar roles; they both purify and help keep your pool and body healthy. While you can also use chlorine and other useful chemicals to destroy the impurities in your swimming pool, the filter removes them from water efficiently and appropriately.
In simple terms, if your pump is drawing down more current than the breaker has capacity for, then it could cause it to trip out. Essentially, the breaker is doing its job as it detects that too much current is being drawn than it can safely handle.
If the crack is small, then you may be able to repair it with a sealant. However, if the crack is large, then you will need to replace the entire filter. If you are not sure how to identify the crack, then you can contact a pool professional for help.
If you`re fairly confident in your DIY skills then you can always do minor pump repairs like changing the mechanical seals or changing your pump bearings.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.
2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
2005 Mercury 50hp 2-stroke outboard motor very sluggish when accelerating, stalled twice when trying to exceed 50% throttle capacity. Last time I used my boat was about two months ago, so I don’t think bad fuel is the problem. I let my boat idle at the boat launch for probably 5 mins before taking off. I didn’t notice any weird sounds or any indication that my motor was running any different than normal. After only a couple of minutes of running my boat up river I gave more throttle(probably 75% power) when it started to bog down. I immediatly kicked it out of gear and checked to see if something was caught around my prop but there was nothing there. From then on everytime I put the motor in gear and gave it throttle it would barely respond and stalled twice. Any suggestions to what this might be? Thanks, Newt.
The carberator is gravity fed and there is propbably gunk in it, when you give it more throttle, it needs more gas but can’t get it. Then a build up of gas in the float bowl occurs and nothing works right. It has happened to me and its aggravating, do a complete rebuild on the carb or just replace it and you will be happier quicker.
Hope this helps, Coachtheune
How many hours a day should you run your pump? How many hours a day is it safe to run your intex pool pump, to insure a clean pool? I purchased my pool last summer and had major problems all year. When i got my pool my pump did not work and i had to wait a week for a new one to be shipped, well after that i had nothing but problems. My boyfriend said it was not good to let pump run all day but i think hes wrong. Can you give me some good tips on keeping my pool crystal clear?
Some pumps are 24hr 7days pumps some are not and should be on a timer. time usually run for 8 hours max a day. you can get a time from most pool leisure places. the pump will say if its a 24hr pump if not then would say its a timer type.
I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.
Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.
I have a 1996 yamaha wave venture 1100….ran greatsat for 2 yrs..started but only ran for spray into carbs….drained fuel started and ran good. Started about month later and would only run as long as primed with starter fluids…checked fuel filter(ok)…fuel flow to fuel pump ok…output of fuel pump appears ok….but engine will only run as long as starter fluid/gas is sprayed into carbs. I don’t think it’s the carbs as it ran great a month ago…now it’s starving for gas flow….so it appears to be a fuel delivery problem…what would be the sequence of tests up to tearing into the carbs? is there a fuel filter inside the carbs? remember it fires off great when primed…until the fuel spray is consumed…
Check the on/off/reserve valve