s does. I’ve just never notice it before. How long does a charger last? I have .35 miles (5 ac.) Thank You
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Almost all radio noise generated by electric fences is caused by a spark or arcing of the electrical current across fence hardware. This type of interference produces a characteristic tick-tick-tick sound that can disrupt communications at distances of up to a mile.
If your electric fence isn`t working properly, you most likely have a grounding issue. Improper grounding can cause the fence to give very weak shocks, if any at all. Proper grounding will complete the circuit. You`ll also need to use proper connectors and insulators for your electric fence to work well.
Step 1 – Power: Turn off your power to your charger. Step 2 – Secure: Check both connections (positive-to-fence and negative-to-ground rod) and make sure they are securely attached. If one or more has come loose, reattach, turn your power back on and see if this resolves your issue.
Silence the alarm

Unplug the power adaptor from the base unit. After restoring power to your unit, we recommend running a test of your fence to ensure it is functioning properly before placing the collar back on your dog. The base unit is not getting adequate power and the power adaptor needs to be replaced.

The pulse “on” time is typically about 0.3 milliseconds (3/10,000 of a second) and occurs about one pulse a second. This is for safety reasons so animals or humans can free themselves from the electrified wire(s) during the “off” time.
Measure the voltage on the energizer between the two terminals (positive and negative) with a digital voltmeter or other high-voltage tester. Touch one end to “-“ (earth terminal) and the other end to “+” (fence terminal). The reading tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables.
If it is on and clicking, turn the charger off and disconnect the fence lead line. Turn the charger on and test it for voltage. If there is high voltage (same as when purchased), the problem is with the fence. In this case, it could be a broken wire, a bad splice joint, or anything that is not allowing voltage through.
While there is a slightly higher upfront cost for solar fence chargers, the long term savings of not having to supply electricity to them far out weights the initial cost. Battery units in these chargers are good for 3 to 4 years, before needing to be replaced.
Amps are what kills. Electric fence energisers put out high voltage (around 8,000 volts), but very low amperage or current (around 120 milliamps). This is 120-thousands of an amp.
Solar energy powers your electric fence charger. To prepare your charger for use, switch the on/off button to the “on” position and allow it to receive 48 hours of sunlight. From there, your charger is ready for use. Place it anywhere along your fence line – its durable case should protect it from harsh weather.
Why is my Invisible Fence® Brand control panel beeping? If your Invisible Fence® Brand control panel is beeping every second, the most likely issue is that you have a wire break somewhere on your property. These can be caused by digging too deep when working in the yard, burrowing animals, and even the weather.
There are three primary reasons why a UPS system will emit alarms: UPS is on battery power. UPS capacity is overloaded. UPS battery is low.
Home electrical outlets inside your home are opposite; high-amperage and low-voltage (which is dangerous). Should someone inadvertently contact an electrified fence, he or she will receive a shock. Always use caution and avoid touching an electrified fence with the head or upper torso.
The typical Zareba® fence charger uses about 33 watts per day. So, 33 watts multiplied by 31 days is 1,023. Divide that by 1,000 to get 1.023 kilowatt hours per month. The U.S. average cost of a kilowatt hour is 12 cents.
A basic rule of thumb is you need no less than 2000 volts in the summer and 4000 volts in the winter due to thicker hair coats on the livestock and you usually do not get a proper ground because of snow.
Barbed wire or woven-wire fences may only last 7 – 12 years, while permanent, high tensile, electric fences can last 20 plus years.
A standard electrician`s voltmeter or electronic multimeter will not work with electric fences. The very short duration pulses will not register on instruments like these and will likely damage them!
Squat down to a knee, pinch one end of the blade of grass between your thumb and index finger and lay the other end on the fence wire. You should feel a slight ping in the blade of grass.
Poor grounding is one of the most common faults in electric fencing systems. If the ground is not completed correctly, the energizer cannot operate at is maximum potential. A rule of thumb is three feet of ground rod for each output joule of energy from the energizer.
There is one reality that can be relied on and that is; it is virtually impossible to overcharge a fence. So, for example, if you doubt that a 1 Joule charger will be strong enough spend a little more and buy a 2 Joule.
A light on the battery tester and audible tone on the receiver confirms that the collar is operating properly. If you get the audible warning but not a light, replace the battery. Please contact your local Dealer to see if they offer a Battery Plan.
Typically the fences are 2.4 metres (7 ft 10 in) tall and typically send high voltage electric pulses through the palisade at a frequency of 1 Hz (one pulse per second).
An electric fence can generate radio noise, even if it is in otherwise good working order. This noise is not normal however and it almost always can be corrected. In many cases, this noise is caused by a portion of the fence that may fail as the spark causing the noise weakens the wire.
Poor grounding is one of the most common faults in electric fencing systems. If the ground is not completed correctly, the energizer cannot operate at is maximum potential. A rule of thumb is three feet of ground rod for each output joule of energy from the energizer.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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Have a 2004 kawasaki 3010 desiel mule that has worked fine for years with regular maint. then yesterday we started it as usual with the glow plug lights indicator and it ran for a few minutes until we went to take of and it just died. period. we tried to check thing out and finally found a bad fuse in the glow plug fuse holder, changed it with the same size and it ran the rest of the time we needed it and then again today we started and ran it same as yesterday and it worked fine for about 30 to 45 minutes and will out in the field it just quite. i immediately started searching for signs of heat or melting of wire or other signs and found none. the fuse that goes into this circuit is a 5 amp and all i had was a 20 so i said lets see what happens. it immediately blow the fuse without any out ward sign of problems.??????
ANSWER : Replace the glow plugs one or more are shorted

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My 870 Remington 12 ga. pump’s barrel now moves about 1/8th inch or less but noticably side to side and is no longer a tight fit? Just noticed it last week as barrel moves by itself or when moved manually. 1987 vintage. Basically my hunting gun as I use my Rem 1100 for skeet and trap. The situation is worrisome and probably not what I would want to continue shooting as it is now. It has never been like this until the last couple of weeks.
ANSWER : HELLO; Check and see if you have the barrel set into the receiver fully, and look at the receiver and see if it isn’t split or the mag. hasn’t become loose, I have two of these guns and Ive never had any problem like your discribing, but not to say it cant happen. PS make sure you retract the bolt before you insert the barrel in the receiver. GOOD LUCK….GREASY.

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Crosman Pumpmaster 760
ANSWER : Hi I had the same problem and I fixed it by just simply pumping the gun at a faster rate. For some reason when I pumped it slowly air would leak out and no pressure would build up similar to your problem, but when I started to pump it rapidly pressure would build up. Though this little fix works I might just exchange mine because I don’t think the gun should have this problem.

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We have a bad smell in our Rockwood 8284ss 5th wheel. It is hard to describe because it is not coming from the stool. There is not much odor when flushed and is not very strong in bathroom. It seems to be strongest in the storage compartment under the front of the camper and also then in the bedroom area there and at the front end of the slide out inside. The closest I can come to describing the smell is to say it smells like a bunch of dirty diapers in a pile or wet clothes that have been standing. Maybe a little on the urine smell also. This has been noticeable for about the last week. As far as I can tell there is nothing wet sitting in any of those areas and we have had no leaks in the camper that we know of.
ANSWER : Sounds like your holding tank is leaking.

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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2005 Mercury 50hp 2-stroke outboard motor very sluggish when accelerating, stalled twice when trying to exceed 50% throttle capacity. Last time I used my boat was about two months ago, so I don’t think bad fuel is the problem. I let my boat idle at the boat launch for probably 5 mins before taking off. I didn’t notice any weird sounds or any indication that my motor was running any different than normal. After only a couple of minutes of running my boat up river I gave more throttle(probably 75% power) when it started to bog down. I immediatly kicked it out of gear and checked to see if something was caught around my prop but there was nothing there. From then on everytime I put the motor in gear and gave it throttle it would barely respond and stalled twice. Any suggestions to what this might be? Thanks, Newt.
ANSWER : The carberator is gravity fed and there is propbably gunk in it, when you give it more throttle, it needs more gas but can’t get it. Then a build up of gas in the float bowl occurs and nothing works right. It has happened to me and its aggravating, do a complete rebuild on the carb or just replace it and you will be happier quicker.

Hope this helps, Coachtheune

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