ater and all patches are ok, but it keeps deflating
Sport & Outdoor – Others
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Leaking from base of pump: There may be a perished or damaged washer or seal inside the pump. (Please do not open your pump as this will void your warranty).
If your inflatable lid is deflating please follow these steps to resolve the issue: Step 1 ‑ Check to see if the valve is misshapen: Inflate the air chamber and securely close the valve. Wipe around the valve with soapy water to determine whether there is an air leakage.
When you first purchase a Lay‑Z‑Spa the liner will naturally expand over time. This is completely normal due to the nature of an inflatable product. Lay‑Z‑Spas are constructed to bear this in mind so the base of the spa liner will be slightly bigger allowing for this expansion.
Probably the most common source of hot tub leaks comes from a rubber o-ring, seal or gasket failing. Each of these components are designed slightly differently but all are meant for one purpose; to seal off the wet areas of the hot tub from the dry areas.
The Pump: One of the most common locations where a hot tub leak can arise is the circulation pump. If you`re going to check this location, be sure to turn off the power and check under the pump for leaking water.
The Lay‑Z‑Spa® PVC Repair Kit contains everything you need to repair a puncture in your inflatable swimming pool or hot tub. It is quick and easy for you to repair any sized puncture and get your inflatable swimming pool or hot tub back in use in no time.
As mentioned above, the most common sign that your hot tub has an air lock is the jets not working when powered on. This can include nothing coming out of your jets when they are turned on or even a humming sound coming from the jets or pump.
For example, it may cause eye irritation, over-dried skin, and possibly some breathing problems. Excess chlorine will vaporise and form a gas that floats just above the water`s surface. If this vapour is inhaled it can inflame airways and exacerbate certain breathing conditions.
1. Leave it running! This may be surprising to hear, but turning your inflatable spa off frequently is actually not the most efficient. If you want to use your inflatable hot tub regularly, say more than three times a week, the most economical and effective way is to keep the spa heater running.
“Hot tubs lose water because of evaporation,” says Brian Campbell of Water Filter Guru. “Evaporation is especially common during winter when air temperature, on average, is at its lowest, which creates steam and causes the water level in the tub to decrease.”
As this is a repair do not use your hot tub/spa until the FIX A LEAK has been removed either by draining or filtering out. Recommended procedure for using FIX A LEAK: Determine water loss in a 24-hour period by measuring the water level drop in that period.
Follow these steps to correct leaks around a hot tube light: Start by shutting off the power to the hot tub and removing the side panels one at time. From under the hot tub, check each light for water to locate the suspected leaking light.
Yes, a Lay-Z-Spa™ pump is waterproof, however, if you are expecting a very large amount of rain or bad weather it is recommended that you bring the spa and pump indoors. Constant adverse weather conditions could damage your spa and pump.
The most effective products are Marlig Leak Sealer and Spa Choice Seal a Leak.
Working Pressure: 0.8PSI / Monaco 10PSI / Hydrojet 1.2PSI)
How long can hot tub water sit untreated? You can skip water treatment for your hot tub for about 2 to 3 weeks before it would no longer be safe for you to soak in. No sanitizing chemicals means you putting yourself at risk of contamination.
Energy Efficiency
According to an independent study of comparable products by comparable brands, Lay-Z-Spa is the most energy-efficient inflatable hot tub brand. Results from the independent test are: 1. Lay‑Z‑Spa hot tubs heat the water to 40°C faster and use less energy.
Since your hot tub pump circulates the warm water as well as the sanitizer, a general rule is to follow manufacturer recommendations or leave the pump on for a minimum of eight hours per day.
Will an airlock clear itself. Even if you run out of water, air should automatically clear in a well-constructed low-pressure water pipe system. The air should naturally climb to the top and discharge as the pipe system fills up.
There are a couple of common models of airlocks, but they use the same principle. The water in the airlock acts as a barrier for the air getting into to fermentation vessel. When the CO2 escapes through the airlock it will bubble through the water. Fill your airlock up to the fill-line with water.
Air, in fact, attempts to expand to fill the container it is placed in. If there is no walls to the container, like on a planet, it will only be stopped by gravity. When the airlock is unsafely open or a hole is made in a spaceship, the air inside attempts to fill the void of space.
Verdict: For most Lay‑Z‑Spa users multifunctional tablets are an excellent way to maintain healthy chlorine levels, however, when shock dosing or setting up your spa chlorine granules can be more useful as the chlorine level can be raised more rapidly.
If your hot tub`s chlorine or bromine level is wrong (too high), it`s unsafe to go in. When you go into a hot tub with chlorine or bromine levels above 3 ppm, it`s normal for you to begin noticing symptoms like nausea, vomiting, itchy eyes, and difficulty breathing.
The recommended temperature for the spa is 25-35 degrees – you can then easily increase it to your desired temperature before use.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a volvo penta md7a marine diesel engine fitted in my sailing boat. Recently, I changed the bottom sea **** which was almost blocked. Apparently the new sea **** is working well as it should. But this week with no apparent reason and without use of engine, I noticed that the cooling system water cup (the recipient which connects with the sea **** hose and the water pump hose) is empty and it Im not able to keep it full like it was before.The water vanishes every time I tried to fill it up in order to keep the water running throught the system. However the waterpump seems to be working. But almost no water is coming out of the exhaustor, of course, just a few drops once in a while. What might be going on ?? Thanks.
ANSWER : I don’t have a picture of the installation, but I can imagine a water filter above the water line with an improperly fitted cover and an air leak that lets the seawater drain out – losing the prime. Old Swampy in New Hampshire
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I have Detroit 60 series installed on a launch. Recently the Starboard unit suffers a catastrophic failure and piston No2 came out of the block, making a big hole. This engines are using heat exchangers, and sea water cooled Charge Air Coolers and sea water self priming raw water pump. We contact the local dealer an the veredict was a “Massive salt water ingestion” that caused an Hydraulic lock and damaged cyls 6 and 2. They say that the water came from the deck covers, but there is no way for that to happen, I think they dont want to honor any warranty, because we suspect that the water came from the Charge Air Cooler. I want to know if the CAC can cause that type of failures and if anyone had a similar problem. The engine cost is about 66K and only had 2300 hours.
ANSWER : I would have to say that a sleeve got pitted or lost an oring or the CAC sprung a leak. I believe you are correct in your assumption that the water did not enter the unit in the manner they are saying. The only real way to tell is a complete tear down and someone is going to have to pay. They are also a high maintenance item and someone is going to say that the preventive maintenance was not done.
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I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.
http://www.spaguts.com/SpaHeaters.aspx
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Coleman hot water on demand
ANSWER : Does anyone have a AC charger for the Hot Water Heater on Demand? I would be willing to buy one.
Thanks,
llhancock
Thanks,
llhancock
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Water system in my Coleman pop up not working
ANSWER : There is a 3 port valve conneted to the incomming water line (white usually). It is actually a check valve to keep the outside water from overfilling your tank. Verify it is installed correctly.
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Have an Intex 12ft x 3ft metal frame pool. Set it up first and filled it and it lost more than half the water overnight. Did everything I was told to find the leak and nothing. Was on hands and knees in pool with blue dye dripping slowly here and there to see if it is sucked through pin holes since I couldn’t find a tear at any seams. Sent back pieces for a replacement liner. Two weeks later we have a new liner fresh from California and are having the SAME problem. What could be going on? The hours we have wasted in this leveling the ground putting up, taking down and putting pool up again… the cost of the water to fill it up twice. This seems to be quite the bottomless money/time pit. Any suggestions?
ANSWER : What is not included in the instructions is the simple ” lay down a bed of filter sand around 3″ thick before placing liner in the pool frame and radius it up at the bottom corners
that sand is necessary because any small pebble , rock or edge will cut the thin liner under water pressure or feet walking in the bottom of the liner
further more , if you use chlorine as a cleaning , antibacterial agent that will cause pin holes in any part of the liner not completely covered by water
that sand is necessary because any small pebble , rock or edge will cut the thin liner under water pressure or feet walking in the bottom of the liner
further more , if you use chlorine as a cleaning , antibacterial agent that will cause pin holes in any part of the liner not completely covered by water
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We have a slow leak coming from beneath the pool (the pool is filled with water) the pool is 18 feet diameter by four feet deep. Is there a way to locate the leak and repair it while filled with water? We do not want to have to drain it –
ANSWER : There is a way to locate leaks that are under water using a red dye that should be available at any pool supply store. It should come with directions, but basically you put the dye in the water and it will flow twards the leak and then you know where the crack/hole/leak is located.
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