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Scooters875 I’m looking for a part for my 16hp Suzuki. Please email me at [email protected]
you you still have this motor. my name is Cory. Thank you
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Suzuki OEM Neutral Switch Assy
- This Neutral Safety Switch is located in the Control Box.
- This Switch features the new style multi-connector.
- ALL INTERNATIONAL BUYERS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CUSTOMS/IMPORT FEES OR DUTIES THAT ARE DUE AT THE TIME OF PICKUP IN YOUR COUNTRY.
What we find is if you do not flush your motor as per the manufacturer`s specifications you will over time get a build-up of residual salt, and that salt will crystallize in the water flow galleries and being pressed against the alloy structure of the head they will slowly corrode and pit.
Flushing is usually an easy procedure, and can often be accomplished with the boat on a trailer or in the water at a dock or mooring.
Most mechanics and engineers suggest the best cruising speeds are achieved at 3400 and 3800 rpm respectively.
It`s possible (but I could be wrong) that the 3-beep code is the early warning that it`s time for an oil change. (Check the manual.) If that is what the 3-beep code signals, then it was simply coincidental to your run issue. They said it was the oil change code.
This switch is intended to last just as long as your car does. In some instances, this will not happen due to the damage that the part can have over the years. Due to the electrical wires that are in the switch, it can be easy for the heat to effect this part in a negative way.
To reset your oil light, simply pump your gas pedal down to the floor 3 times, pausing briefly between each pump. Depending on your car`s model and year, you might see a message on your dash telling you the light is reset.
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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.
Caravan water heater not letting hot water through
Pipes are rusted and cloggen from the inside of them
I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
TC5000 and after extended use I smell burning and upon removing the belt cover and drive belt I felt of the motor on the motor side of the drive pulley and it was ”red-hot”, obviously the source of the smell of the burning. The motor spins freely without any rubbing noise. The drive pulley (motor side) and the tread pulley appear to be alligned. One curious thing is that the threaded motor output shaft is recessed about 3/8” from the outside edge of the pulley. Could it be the bearing on the pulley side of the motor? I am dumbfounded as to what the solution might be. Note that I could not enter the exact product as my model seemed to be invalid. My model is the TC5000. Thanks [email protected]
Just because it spins freely doesnt mean it cant have a shorted winding. Id send it back where it came from or at least replace the motor.
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up
I have a 1997 motor guide wireless 24volt Big Water trolling motor. hooked it up to the batteries and put in a new 9volt battery in the foot pedal. the lights come on on top of the motor head and the foot pedal beeps, but the prop doesnt turn or spin (like there is no power to the bottom of the motor) any suggestions to what the problem is or how to fix it? (just bought the motor from a lady who’s husband died. dont have any manuals)
Hello there, as you said the power does not get to the bottom of the motor. The motor could be faulty or just completely bad. First you have to determine that the motor is good until you can determine this it is quite impossible to determine if there can be any fix. Take out the motor and try to power it on its own if it works fine then the problem is not from the motor but most likely the problem is from the motor. Let me know what your findings are. Hoping to hear from you soon.
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We have a 1994 HiLo FunLight camp trailer. The water pump does not come on when attempting to use the water.
The tank is full of water, the battery is fully charged, the trailer is connected to power. Any suggestions? Where is the fuse located? Where is the SureFlo Water Pump located in this trailer?
Thank you very much. Chuck Stafford
THi-Lo Trailer500 South Main StreetPO BOX 577Bellville, OH 44813Local: 419-886-0066This is a link that may or may not help you:. If there is a fuse or a breaker for the pump, it would more than likely be on the DC panel. The pump could be located in a variety of different places but would probably be under a sink, around or on top of water tank, or in storage under the bed, access being either by removing matteress and a panel hidden by matress or, by removing a drawer in the base of the bunks lower structure. You probably have a pressure valve in the line somewhere near your water inlet connection, you may want to check that and, the pump might be in thta area also.