problem is that I can’t even get it to start, before it would start, but run rough. I changed the spark plug with a new double platinum plug, which still fouls out, I also replaced the air filter with a new one. This model does not have any throttle control, according to Briggs & Stratton’s website, my engine has an atmosphere controlled throttle & choke. When I pull the air cleaner off, I notice that the linkage justs flops around, basically letting the choke flop open and closed. Is it just in the springs or is there something on up the line, ex. atmosphere control device, that is causing the throttle control problems?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

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x 2 5/16in. Shaft, Model# 91202-1016.
Two-cycle engines are able to propel your lawn mower, snow blower or pressure washer in one crankshaft revolution and two strokes of the piston. The vast majority of the small engines Briggs & Stratton manufactures are 4-cycle engines, which require four strokes of the piston to complete a crankshaft revolution.
Please Note: Briggs & Stratton engine model numbers are 10 characters.
The first one or two digits indicate the approximate CUBIC INCH DISPLACEMENT. B. The first digit after the displacement indicates the BASIC DESIGN SERIES, relating to cylinder construction, ignition, general configuration, etc. C. The second digit after the displacement indicates ORIENTATION OF CRANKSHAFT.
How to check the type of engine. You can easily find out what kind of engine is in your car by checking the VIN, which can be seen in the owner`s manual or under the hood. The VIN can also be found on the front of the driver`s side dashboard in most cases.
To find the model number, look for a model number sticker on the engine. The engine type code is stamped into the side of the engine, usually close to the serial number. Engine type codes may be up to 4 characters.
A 4-Stroke engine is the kind of engine that is common on lawn mowers.
Tax included.
Briggs & Stratton 15D1120007E8 1150 Series 11HP 250cc 3/4″ x 2 9/16″ Shaft Snow Blower Engine.
Rotary walk-behind lawn mowers are generally powered with gasoline and have engines that are two horsepower to seven horsepower. Riding lawn mowers, on the other hand, have 13 horsepower to 30 horsepower engines because they`re so much bigger and heavier.
The engine`s code number indicates the exact date it was manufactured. This system provides an easy way to determine the age of your small engine. The following is an example of interpreting the date for the code number 99011556: The first two digits (99) denote the year of manufacture.
How Do I Identify a Briggs & Stratton Engine? The Model, Type and Code numbers, stamped directly into the engine, are used to identify our engines. Engines used in lawn mower applications usually have the model numbers stamped directly into the blower housing, muffler heat shield, or a few inches above the spark plug.
The engine type code is stamped into the side of the engine, usually close to the serial number. Engine type codes may be up to 4 characters.
Your VIN number is your vehicle identification number and you can find your engine size by VIN number. In the series of numbers and letters, the tenth from the left denotes the model year and the eighth is the engine codes. Just tell the store clerk those two characters and you`re in business.
The Ford Model A (also colloquially called the A-Model Ford or the A, and A-bone among hot rodders and customizers) was the Ford Motor Company`s second market success, replacing the venerable Model T which had been produced for 18 years. It was first produced on October 20, 1927, but not introduced until December 2.
Engine numbers were originally created as a serial number. Before the modern era, it was common for cars to need replacement engines, or rebuilt engines. It is an exhaustive process to update a vehicle`s engine number with the relevant roads and traffic authorities, but it is possible.
As for the engine number, you can generally find it on the right side of the engine block or cylinder, clutch lining block, and starter on the right side of the motorbike.
To find the model number, look for a model number sticker on the engine. The engine type code is stamped into the side of the engine, usually close to the serial number. Engine type codes may be up to 4 characters.
Finding your model number and serial number is as easy as locating the identification tag on your machine. As seen in the example, the model number will be displayed below the MODEL heading (Example: Z235), and the serial number will be underlined on the top-right corner of the tag (Example: 130002).

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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Turned poulan pro 42 inch 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton mower off after 1hr of use to move a board I was about to mow over. Tried to restart it but it just backfires. Removed spark plug and it looked fouled. Cleaned it up but when looking at spark it is orange in color. Bought new spark plug and now get white spark. Installed new spark plug and it still backfires. Plug is wet with gas. Any suggestions?
ANSWER : Check the valve clearances and especially the inlet valve to make sure that it is not riding (staying slightly open) B&S are notorious for valve problems as most of their motors do not have a valve adjustment on them, the valves stems have to be filed/ground down to get a clearance. Somewhere between 0.010 to 0.015″ is near enough for the inlets and about 0.005″ more for the exhaust. It is not critical.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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Spark plug wire boot grounding out on coil, 96 outback 2.5 automatic, just put new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and new coil on. ran great for two weeks, now spark is jumping out of boot at coil on one wire, put old coil back on and still does it in the same spot. replaced wires again, and still does it in the same spot. seems to do it only under a load. Is my new spark plug on that cylinder bad? Does the coil need some insulation under it? It is the coil that sits right on top of the motor. Any ideas? thanks.
ANSWER : Sparks are high voltage, and will always follow the path of least resistance. If you can visibly see a spark (whether in a lighted area, or in the dark), that means either that a plug wire (or coil wire) is open (non conductive), or your have a carbon track on the surface where the spark can be seen, but most likely you have BOTH problems!

If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of each wire involved, particularly spark plug wires … which means you must be able to connect to both ends of each wire at the same, and hopefully, FLEX those wires, to be sure they don’t have a break inside that is intermittent (comes and goes)!

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Engine runs rough when we throttle up
ANSWER : Sounds like a spark plug issue. If the spark plug is not torqued after a good number of months it can seep at high rev sustained pressure. Otherwise I would look at the spark compensator or possibly the float.

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