f charger that should go with it. There is a connection that plugs into a power outlet in a vehicle which I guess you use when on the road.
Is there a battery charger for this?
Sport & Outdoor – Others
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It works by using an internal generator to create power. The external crank arm charges an internal battery by moving metal coils around a magnet, creating a current. This is especially useful for emergencies because all you need to charge the Hand Crank Radio are your own two hands!
How long does it take to charge a hand-crank radio? Charging time depends on the mAh rating of the battery and the charging method. The larger the battery, the longer it takes to fully recharge when depleted. Charging via an AC adapter takes 4 to 10 hours.
As the name implies, the emergency crank radio is powered by using a hand crank, usually for about half a minute to two minutes, to provide the radio with power for about a half hour to an hour. Many of these radios feature other power sources too.
In other applications, RF energy can be used to charge batteries instead of directly powering the device. In such a scenario a single rechargeable battery can last the lifetime of a product, as opposed to many non-rechargeable batteries acting as the only power source.
Even if your lights, radio or accessories turn on, your battery may still be dead or undercharged. These components require a lot less power than the starter. Therefore, your battery may have enough ability to turn the radio/lights on, but not enough to turn on the starter.
This depends on the size of the battery but generally in analog mode, batteries will run for 10-14 hours between charges. In digital mode, this increases to 14-16 hours.
This hand-crank, solar-charging radio receives AM/FM and weather bands, can charge your smartphone via a USB cord, and works as an emergency LED flashlight. Spin the hand turbine for 60 seconds to get 10-15 minutes of radio and flashlight use or place the emergency radio in the sun for a passive charging option.
The Midland ER310 E+Ready Emergency Crank Weather Radio is our top choice because of its overall build quality and impressive feature set, which includes loud weather alerts, a bright flashlight, and a decent-sized battery with multiple ways to charge it. The Kaito Voyager KA500 is another well-rounded option.
Hand crank generator operates by turning a crank by hand. Because of the mechanical force that we apply to that particular device, help it to create a current to produce electricity. There are many types out there used form different purposes.
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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.
I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.
Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.
I have imported a 2000 Compass Herald Clermont caravan from the UK to Australia. The van has two 7 pin round plugs to connect to the towing vehicle. The blach one which has 7 wires is self explanitory but never having owned a van in the UK with Batteries and charging unit I don’t know what the second plug which is on the grey cable does.
Could you please explain what each of the coloured wires (5 in all) connect to on the towing vehicle as I need to wire in a second socket on the rear of my car.
Here is a link to a site which explains all the different wire functions for all the plug types:
Type 7 Pin Plug:(12S) (Grey)
Yellow – Reverse Light
Blue – Live Battery Feed
White – Earth
Green – Live Feed
Brown – Spare
Red – Fridge
Black – Second Earth
Hopefully this is what you were looking for.
Please click on the 4 Thumbs Up rating icon if this was at all helpful.
Thank you very much.
I would like to hook up a 12 volt battery to the trailer. In the cupboard below the propane stove is a plug with white, black and orange wire to it.
In the AC power converter cupboard I have a plug with a black and orange wire. How do I hook up the battery so that it charges and runs the fridge while I’m driving, and lets me use the lights with the fridge on propane while I’m camping?
You haven’t told us what trailer you have, what DC-AC converter you have, it the wire is original or aftermarket and what gage it is.
Because of that you must first identify the wires. You will need a multimeter for that. Start by finding if your trailer has a negative wire or is using the chassis as the ground. For that disconnect the battery from the truck (make sure you have the radio code handy) then measure the resistance between the 3 wires and the body of the truck – you will find the ground wire when the resistance will be close to 0. Reconnect the battery and measure the voltage between the ground wire and the other 2 – the one with 12v on it is the power one and the other goes to the power input of the converter. Check that by removing the converter and looking where they are plugged – if you have any doubts that they are not the wires from the cupboard just check their continuity.All of this is a 5 minute job. Once you know the wires just connect the ground on to the minus and the power and the converter ones to the plus.
New battery just put boat in water always had a solar powered charger on battery took it off about a week ago today went to start boat battery dead. I do not know if it has altanator or what have a friend mechanic says he has a meter to test whatever, if you can send what to tes & numbers of tests & what might be bad or not hooked up. Thanks Brown
You will need to do 3 tests:
1 – you must find out if you have a short in the wiring: disconnect the + cable from the battery and put an ampermeter in there to close the circuit; if a current is detected it means that you have a short and it will drain the battery. To locate the short start disconnecting wires and look at the meter – when you will disconnect the wire that goes to the failed wire or part the current will stop flowing; find the faulty part and fix or replace it.2 – you must find out if the alternator is charging the battery correctly: start the motor, wait for half an hour then measure the voltage on the battery. If it’s below 14.1 volts then the alternator is failing and it will have to be replaced.3 – you must find out if the battery is in good working order: after the second test has finished shut down the engine and disconnect the battery; wait one hour and measure it -if the voltage on it has dropped to below 11.8 volts then the battery has aged and it’s no longer holding the charge so replace it.
Turned poulan pro 42 inch 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton mower off after 1hr of use to move a board I was about to mow over. Tried to restart it but it just backfires. Removed spark plug and it looked fouled. Cleaned it up but when looking at spark it is orange in color. Bought new spark plug and now get white spark. Installed new spark plug and it still backfires. Plug is wet with gas. Any suggestions?
Check the valve clearances and especially the inlet valve to make sure that it is not riding (staying slightly open) B&S are notorious for valve problems as most of their motors do not have a valve adjustment on them, the valves stems have to be filed/ground down to get a clearance. Somewhere between 0.010 to 0.015″ is near enough for the inlets and about 0.005″ more for the exhaust. It is not critical.
2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.