rst day of diving went fine. However, as the week progressed I noticed that when taking in a breath the regulator continued to trickle air at a very small rate. While not enough to be concerned about safety at this point it has become an annoyance both from the fact that bubbles continue to trickle past my ears and air usage has increased. This is an intermittent problem.

I had it looked at by 2 certified Scuba Pro Dive shops and they could not find anything wrong with it though one did lower the first stage pressure just to a bit to see if that would work. I also cycled the control lever position for “dive” and “surface” intervals to ensure that there were no sticking problems.

It does appear that the problem is intermittent and that it only occurs when the regulator is under water.

In addition is there a diagram in which I can use to troubleshoot this problem?

NOTE: this version of the X650 was not on the recall list of Scuba Pro.

Any help would be appreciated.

Stephen
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Strangely enough I had the exact same problem with mine.. I’m in the caribbean I love diving and spear gun fishing.. I had one of these a year ago with the same issue I actually wound up increasing the pressure to get it to work.. It wasnt muc use cause my air ran out at a faster rate. Was never able to fix ,, A buddy of mine had the same issue ,, wound up replacing the swivle vale and this helped for a week and then back to the same old .. I then changed to the Aqualung Mikron Regulator had no issues and it works great .. Quite frankly I think we had bad ones here but I’m not sure where you got yours. If you wish you can replace the swivle valve (most likely cause) but I’ll just change the unit and get another..

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

ScubaPro: Needs to be serviced every 100 dives or no longer than once every 2 years, whichever comes first.
The first stage of the regulator is the part of the regulator that attaches directly to the cylinder, this reduces the pressure of the air from the cylinder down to an intermediate pressure held in the hose which connects to the second stage of the regulator, the second stage of the regulator sometimes called the …
Your regulator should be serviced annually (with some brands 2 years, and we will talk about this shortly) no matter if you have 1 dive or 100 dives.
Regulators and Mouthpieces

Submerge the regulator in fresh water for a short period and gently rotate any moving parts to ensure any salt residue is rinsed off or dissolves. Allow the regulator to dry completely before storing.

The regulator you buy today could last 15 years or more, so preparing for your future diving is just as important as preparing for your current diving.
Lastly, a free-flowing or hard-breathing reg needs to be checked right away. Just as a car needs its oil changed and timing belt replaced, your regulator can`t function properly without a regular tune-up. If your regulator is so old it can no longer be serviced, it`s time for a new one.
Scuba regulator costs will range between $200 to more than $2000. The majority of first and second stage setups will cost around $500-$700. On the higher end regulators will be built out of titanium. Other features to expect on higher end models will be venturi controls, lighter weight, and smaller size.
If a first stage regulator is used in an LP Gas plumbing system, a second stage regulator must be installed downstream. In other words, a first stage regulator can`t be installed independently in an LP Gas system. There must be a second stage regulator installed as well.
In simple terms, the mechanism controls the pressure of the breathing gas when a diver demands it (breathes) from the tank. Thus, the most important feature of a scuba regulator is being able to reduce high pressure air (stored inside the tank), to a pressure that is safe for a diver to breathe underwater.
Step 1: After coming home from your dive, rinse your regulator with fresh water to clean off any salt or sand and follow that with a 20-minute soak in fresh water as well. This will dissolve anything hiding in the nooks and crannies of both first and second stages.
Things like poor grounding, a loose or weak battery, and a worn battery connection can all lead to regulator rectifier failure.
Generally, regulators should be replaced every five years.
Service life It is recommended that regulators should be replaced after 10 years from the time of first use. But a regulator should be regularly checked for damage or incorrect performance and replaced if not in good condition.
To verify a leak, simply isolate the regulator by closing an inlet valve and an outlet valve. If the regulator is leaking, the pressure on the gauge(s) will drop from the set point to zero. Another quick means of verification is to cover the bonnet port with a finger to see if the sound goes away.
Never Store Your Scuba Cylinder Empty

Your scuba cylinder should always be stored with a minimum of 200 psi inside of it. If it is stored completely empty, the absence of pressure inside the cylinder can allow all sorts of things to enter into it.

Based on personal experience, an average open water certified diver using a standard aluminum 80-cubic-foot tank on a 40-foot dive will be able to stay down for about 45 minutes before surfacing with a safe reserve of air.
Your PADI certification never expires; but if you haven`t been diving in a while, it`s better to be over-prepared than risk a problem because you forget something important. Dive shops also appreciate seeing a recent ReActivated date on your certification card.
Do Scuba Tanks Expire? The answer to this question varies by professional, but as long as you keep up with your tank`s regular maintenance, including a visual inspection (VIP) completed once a year and a hydrostatic test every five years, you can make your scuba tank last.
Servicing your own regs is possible, can save you money in the long run (very long if you only have a couple regs by the time you invest in the books I noted and the tools) but if like me you have 8 regs then servicing them myself is just smart money.
Eventually aluminium SCUBA tanks, if they are filled enough times, will fail because of sustained load cracking but there is good news and that is that they can be filled up to 10,000 times. That`s about 100 years if being filled twice a week.
Atomic Aquatics TFX

The TFX is the most expensive regulator on our list, in fact, it is one of the more expensive regulators on the market. It will cost you a pretty penny. But, if you have the money to spend on a high-quality piece of equipment, we recommend it.

First stage – Attaches to the scuba tank valve, reduces tank air pressure to an intermediate pressure and routes it to several hoses. Second stage – Mouthpiece you breathe from. Also called a demand valve because it gives you air when you demand it (inhale) at the exact pressure you need for breathing comfortably.
A single-stage regulator reduces the cylinder`s gas pressure in one step, whereas a two-stage regulator reduces the pressure in two steps, resulting in a more stable and reliable flow of CO2.
The simple answer is no, you do not need a regulator for every tank. There could be an installation where multiple regulators are needed to complete the job, but on most installations one 1st stage regulator in the tank is all that is needed.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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