he engine info on this and also it is hard to start and acting like a valve leakage. Before I start I would like to know if this engine may have the same trouble as an earlier version namely the camshaft compression relief. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
\Dave
Sport & Outdoor – Others
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Snow blower model numbers are located on the backside of the metal base between the left and right rear-wheels. The 11-character model number is printed on the left side of the Product Identification Label and will begin with the letters “CM”.
The 1st three numbers of your serial number will always provide your manufacture date. The 1st number is the YEAR of manufacture; the 2nd & 3rd numbers indicate the MONTH of manufacture.
How Do I Locate the Engine Model Number on My Snow Blower? The engine model number is usually a number stamped into metal directly on your engine. It may be stamped onto the left side of the overhead valve cover, the metal shield below the muffler, or the cylinder shield on the side of the engine.
When standing behind the unit, the product identification label can be found in the center or right-hand side of the base of the unit where the handle bars attach.
Craftsman (MTD)
For example, if the Date Code is 5240, the first character, 5, identifies the Year. The last 3 digits identify the sequential day within the year, nnn of 365. So, 5240 gives a build date of the 240th day in 1995 or August 28, 1995.
What year was my equipment built? The 5th character of our 11 character product serial numbers will indicate the last number of the year that it was manufactured. Since 5th character in the example is a 4, the year of manufacture would be a year ending in 4.
The two letters at the beginning of the serial number tell you the month and year it was made. Where is my model and serial number located? The first letter identifies the month. The second letter is the year.
A used snowblower with some years on it will be a better purchase than a newer one. Older snowblowers are better built, they have more metal, less plastic, and better engineering. Don`t be put off by the age if the snowblower has been looked after.
On handheld blowers and shredder vacs, it is located on the bar code label on the fan casing. On backpack blowers, it is on the bar code label and stamped in the top of the cylinder or main crank case. All current serial numbers will be nine digits long and begin with the number 2, 3, 5, or 9.
Product Overview. This snow blower is powered by a 208cc 4-cycle OHV CRAFTSMAN® Quiet engine giving you more power, a longer life, and improved fuel economy.
The 24-in. 208cc Electric Start Two-Stage Snow Blower eliminates pull-starting a cold engine. The strong serrated steel augers cut through snow for faster clearing, saving you time on those frigid mornings.
Rear of the frame cover, between the wheels.
How Do I Identify a Briggs & Stratton Engine? The Model, Type and Code numbers, stamped directly into the engine, are used to identify our engines. Engines used in lawn mower applications usually have the model numbers stamped directly into the blower housing, muffler heat shield, or a few inches above the spark plug.
The product`s model number is essential to finding correct genuine factory replacement part numbers for your Troy-Bilt® outdoor power equipment. The Model number is eleven characters long and is printed on the left side of the Product Identification Label.
The product`s model number is essential to finding correct genuine factory replacement part numbers for your Troy-Bilt® outdoor power equipment. The Model number is eleven characters long and is printed on the left side of the Product Identification Label.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Hello, i think i figured out what it was, after breaking down the valve again i was looking at the rubber that is around the valves and i was thinking at first this wasnt an extra part, but come to find out after many hours of researching online it is an peice that comes off but its just glued on, its a (Spider) gasket. So do u think if nothing is wrong with the valve itself that if the spider gasket is wearing away and starting to get britle that it will let the debris i vacuum up come back in the pool and let the backwash valve leak when its on the filter position? I cant thank u enough for helping me. You sure have lead me in the right direction and saved me alot of money. Otherwise i would of probably gave up and bought another one….thanks and let me know if u think that the buying a spider gasket will solve my problems
ANSWER : The spider gasket that you refer to is what seals the chambers from each other. Leaking here can have a large impact on how well the valve is able to do its job. But, I don’t remember seeing one in the parts diagram. If you are able to obtain one, then by all means, replace it if you can. As I said earlier, you are essentially rebuilding the valve assembly. If something looks worn, now is the time to repair / replace it during reassembly. I also have a suggestion for you as well. Take good pictures, document everything that you do when you disassemble and reassemble the valve. Then write up a tip (gotta become an expert) for others to read through and be able to service their own equipment. I was surprised to see that there were as many other questions asked about the same filter that you have. Highly recommend that you do this. As many times as you have taken this apart and put it back together, you are fast becoming an authority on it!Glad to see that you are sticking it through, and not throwing in the towel. After all is said and done, you will have a working knowledge of how your filter works, and be able to identify issues in the future before they become a problem. Congratulations!
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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.
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My 50cc mini bike starts then dies 5 secs after starting. why?
ANSWER : It sounds like you may have 2 problems
Bad gas
dpossible loose spark plug( bad compression) Solutiondump out the gas put new inRemove the spar plug and examine the plug if it is wet and black it is fouledif it is white ad dry it is not getting gasIf you can replace the spark plug if not just clean it with a wire brush put back in and tighten Finally make sure the spark plug wire is not loseBest of luck to you
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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?
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Water build up in the starter & Reqoil case of my Polaris ATV
ANSWER : Your drain plugs should be visable, if they exist, on the lowest point of the body of the device. If you can’t readily see them, consider drying out the entire unit with a hair dryer and a little patience in drying the entire unit. From then on, I would consider evaluating the depth of water before entering. After all, the unit may not be amphibious, which sounds like your intended use!
Also, the battery may be affected by the extreme cold, as they often are, leaving a different approach to this problem. Good Luck!
Also, the battery may be affected by the extreme cold, as they often are, leaving a different approach to this problem. Good Luck!
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My engine revs on high by itself and runs rough
ANSWER : We had the same problem with our snowblower. we tried everything. ponits, adjustments. even converted points to electronics. we ened up putting on a brand new carborater and it runs great now. save youself the headaches and buy a new carborator. we spent $87. so much better
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LX 188. Engine suddenly dies. The fluel in the bowel of the fuel filter is empty. If I crank the engine the filter becomes dry and is collapsing some but the engine does not start. When I remove the supply line from the fuel pump to the carberator and crank the enginge there is a strong stream of gas being pumped out. I tap on the carberator ??? is the float is hung not allowing fuel to enter. Cranking the engine with the line off refills the bowel of the gas filter. Reattache line to the carberator===engine starts. Ran perfect for 20minutes then suddenly died. Repeated all the above and engine again started. What to do to fix this? Thanks
ANSWER : Debrie inside the needle and seat area which has to be cleaned out with carburetor cleaner and compressed air
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