ads that the thumb screw sets into have stripped. Is there a replacement part? The same thing has happened on three other Minn Kota motors I have had. Obviously I have been over tightening them
Sport & Outdoor – Others
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
HELLO,YES IT CAN BE REPLACED ANDYOU CAN VISIT THE SITE BELOW FOR PARTS ORDERING.http://electric-outboard-motors.co.uk/accessories.htm ORhttp://www.lakepowelldiscountmarineelectronics.com/minn-kota.htmlWISH YOU GOOD LUCKTAKE CARE.
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
For most of our motors, you can shorten the shaft of your trolling motor if it is too long. We recommend having the shaft shortened at an Authorized Service Center. If your motor is under warranty and you shorten the shaft yourself, it will void your warranty.
In the event that your remote battery has died, you can press and hold the POWER button, located at the mounting base, for 10 seconds and the motor will stow. *This video is shown on Minn Kota Ulterra models that were built after 2017 (Bluetooth-enabled).
The motors are stowed flat on the forward deck atop integrated mounts and flipped over the bow into a vertical position with the motor head in the water when deployed. That portable flip-up/down design is perfect for boats with flat, open bows, but not so much for owners of boats with bow rails and angles up front.
That`s Spot-Lock, the game-changing GPS anchor. Just push it, and Spot-Lock uses GPS to lock your boat onto your fishing spot more accurately than anything else on the water.
Boat Size. Today`s trolling motors have enough power and thrust to move and hold your average inshore saltwater boat in the 10- to 29-foot range with the sweet spot being in the 15- to 25-foot range.
Submersion Rule: You`ll want the top of the motor submerged at LEAST 12″ under the water to ensure adequate power and to prevent noisy cavitation which will scare fish.
Your motor is cooled by the water around it, while running it out of the water for a very short time would be OK, it would take a long time to drain the battery much running the motor out of the water with no load.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
TC5000 and after extended use I smell burning and upon removing the belt cover and drive belt I felt of the motor on the motor side of the drive pulley and it was ”red-hot”, obviously the source of the smell of the burning. The motor spins freely without any rubbing noise. The drive pulley (motor side) and the tread pulley appear to be alligned. One curious thing is that the threaded motor output shaft is recessed about 3/8” from the outside edge of the pulley. Could it be the bearing on the pulley side of the motor? I am dumbfounded as to what the solution might be. Note that I could not enter the exact product as my model seemed to be invalid. My model is the TC5000. Thanks [email protected]
Just because it spins freely doesnt mean it cant have a shorted winding. Id send it back where it came from or at least replace the motor.
My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c
Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse
I have stripped the thread in an extendable tent pole.
If you go to any good tool store or engineering store you can get what is known as helecoil insert.just tell them the inside diam of the pole.they will probably put it in for you if yuo take the pole along.hope this will help.regards barry.
I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.
Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.