fire or it jumped time, I took it apart and checked wires and had several loose wire and the distributor cap around one of the screws is broke would this cause it not to fire?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
The starter solenoid is not engaging to flywheel.Its faulty starter and it has to be replaced.The starter solenoid is worn out, so its not engaging to flywheel.The solenoid is part of the starter assembly.So instead of only solenoid replaced getting starter replaced is advisable.———-
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

A rough or uneven idle can be an indicator of an engine that is misfiring. The air/fuel mixture is disrupted which can cause the engine to jump up and down.
A cracked, clogged, or otherwise worn fuel pump is often the reason a Mercury outboard cranks but won`t start. Consult a repair manual for your engine model and year to determine the proper replacement part.
If you have checked the battery switch and charged the batteries, but your boat engine still won`t start, check the battery cables. Make sure the connections that run between the engine and the battery are not loose or corroded. Reconnect or replace any battery cables that have become disconnected or damaged.
You most likely have a filter problem or fouled plugs. That could be why your boat motor is losing power. Solution: Replace the in-line fuel filter.
Stalling problems can be traced to: A spark plug fouled by fuel, carbon, dirt or oil on the electrodes may not produce a spark strong enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture and start your engine. A dirty flame arrestor/air box can cause your boat engine to stall. Remove the debris using carb cleaner and a wire brush.
Porpoising is a sustained, repetitive motion that causes a boat`s bow to bounce up and down out of the water, even in calm waters. While porpoising can be merely uncomfortable for passengers, it can also cause loss of control, which may result in injury or damage to the structure of the boat.
you want to check your fuel filter. and your air filter if your outboard has one if the engine is getting starved because of fuel. by a clogged filter that can lead to some idling. problems the same thing will apply for your air filter if your motor isn`t getting enough air that can cause it to stall as well.
No/Weak/Intermittent Spark

Spark issues are the most common symptoms of failing stators, known as “Misfiring.” If you haven`t already known, stators are directly responsible for producing the required spark for your spark plug.

Engines with no spark or intermittent spark on one bank can be caused by a faulty stator. Nestled in with the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base).
If the outboard is too low, it creates excessive drag, which cuts into speed and fuel efficiency. If it`s too high, the propeller tends to ventilate, losing its bite on the water and blowing out while turning and in steep seas.
If your outboard motor will not throttle up, the issue may be as simple as a tangle. Debris such as fishing line, excessive seaweed, beer can rings, or nearly any other material can wrap around the propeller and its spindle.
A humming noise is a good indication that either the start capacitor or centrifugal switch is faulty. You can start with replacing the capacitor. Be sure to replace the capacitor with the same type used initially or with a higher voltage.
Damaged, Loose, or Obstructed Propeller

One of the primary causes of outboard engine vibration is a damaged or compromised propeller. A characteristic sign that your propeller is the source of your problem is if throttling to higher RPMs intensifies the vibration.

Faulty Idle Bleed Recirculation System: Usually, a clogged or stuck check valve, or clogged or leaking hose. Will cause rough running, especially at idle. Fouled, or improperly gapped Spark Plugs: Causes misfiring at low RPM, where the Ignition strength is at its weakest = Rough Idle.
It could be dirty fuel and a plugged filter, a problem in the fuel pickup tube in the tank, water in the fuel that was getting past the Racor, an air leak or even a kinked or collapsed fuel hose.
There is a simple test to determine if a thermostat is opening and closing properly. Place it into boiling water. It should open in the water and close when removed. If it fails, replace it and the gasket with new ones.
Because the stator is the power to generate the power needed by the engine to produce sparks and run. The outboard has only one or two smaller cylinders. If the stator fails, it will not even start and run! Larger engines have four, six or eight cylinders.
Clogged Fuel Injectors

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.

No. A battery is not required to run the rope start models. However, if you have electrical accessories you want to operate and would like to take advantage of the charging system, the capability is already there.
Always warm up the motor thoroughly at idle before running at higher engine speeds. For the next eight hours you can run the motor in standard fashion but never for longer than five minutes at wide-open throttle.
When a boat is over-propped (the propellers have too much pitch), the outboard(s) highest achievable RPM is lower than the manufacturer`s recommended wide-open-throttle RPM, which typically is between 5000 and 6000 RPM.
If your boat`s steering is unusually stiff, you should first check to make sure there`s adequate grease on the motor. Grease is necessary to keep the components moving and functioning as they are intended. Without this lubrication, the steering wheel may be difficult to turn.
While it is possible to run an outboard motor without a lower unit, it`s not recommended due to safety concerns and potential damage to other parts of your boat. If you need to replace or repair your lower unit, make sure you consult with a qualified marine mechanic before attempting any repairs yourself.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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We have a 1967 2 strok mercury 65 outboard motor. wont start cold
ANSWER : Wow.It sounds like some people I know.Late starters.Don,t get out of bed ’till 10 am.With all you have written, a check on the operation of the choke (cold start) would be worth looking at.As you crank the motor,squeeze the fuel bulb at the same time and see if that also may help.Hope this helps

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I have a 1987 mercury 9.9 outboard drive problems
ANSWER : The inside of the prop has a rubber between the prop itself and the inside splines to act as a shock absorber,say if you were to hit a rock. that rubber had spun out and the splines are turning inside the prop. the prop is screwed. seen it 100 times before.

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Have a john deere 318 riding lawn mower. it had been hard to start with it taking several turns of the key to do anything, then would not always engage. once engaged, would start with no problem. now when the key is turned, does nothing. checked 2 fuses near battery and tried jumping but no change. suspect starter and or solenoid. john deer shop claims starter price is $505 with almost 4 hrs labor too. is there good way to test to see if starter, solenoid, condenser, switch, etc is problem? what is the easiest way to access and remove the staqrter and solenoid? is there a relatively cheap equivalent to this starter and solenoid?
ANSWER : Usually the shop would make the fixing of an item to look so complicated this is usually to ensure that the customer comes back. To confirm if the starter is the cause of the machine not starting. tell the shop to check the machine if either of the 2 options are the cause of the problem as they will have setup procedures for doing this. Do not settle for cheaper equivalent as this will only cause further damage to the unit. It is rather concrete that starting problems are caused by the starter.Hope this has been helpful?

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