ce of flashing lights twice then only ” incomplete charge” light comes on . Charging light doesn’t come on. Can’t get batteries to full charge. What am I doing wrong?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Check the battery charge to see if any power is reaching the battery. Connecting a voltmeter to the charger`s negative and positive clamps will allow you to determine how much power the battery charger is producing. After connecting the voltmeter to the battery correctly, the user needs to turn on the power supply.
The peak charging voltage for Gel batteries is 2.3 to 2.36 volts per cell, and for a 48 volt charger this works out to 55.2 to 56.6 volts, which is lower than a wet or AGM type battery needs for a full charge.
Generally, this occurs when the charger does not receive a signal from the batteries, in other words there is a break in the connection between the charger and batteries.
Bad Charger: IN GENERAL, if the charger kicks on, but doesn`t charge fully or kicks off soon after, this is likely a charger issue. If the charger makes a loud clicking noise, this is likely a battery charger issue.
Short green flash = less than 80% charged. Long green flash = more than 80% charged. Solid green light = 100% charged. Red flash = fault code, charging error. For a description of fault codes and advice on how to handle these errors, see your owner`s manual.
For example, if you have a 48v battery, 48 volts is the `nominal` voltage or middle of the range of voltages for that battery. When you charge a 48v battery it actually charges to 54.6 volts and when it is empty it will be somewhere around 40-41 volts.
Finally, charging 48V LiFePO4 batteries require voltage parameters of 56V – 56.8V.
A red light comes on to indicate fast charging of the battery. After fast charge is done, the light turns green and the remaining 3 hour charge becomes a trickle charge, optimizing battery performance.
if RED and GREEN LED`s once again begin to flash simultaneously the battery pack is damaged or faulty and will need to be replaced. Remove the battery pack from the Charger and unplug the Charger from the 120VAC power source – required to reset Charger PCB circuitry.
Check Your Connections

Make sure you check each battery terminal for corrosion; any buildup will impede the flow of electricity, and could likewise cause problems. Generally, if you plug in your charger, and nothing happens, this is most likely a problem with your batteries or connections.

There must be a minimum of 28 or 29 volts in the batteries for the charger to automatically start charging.
A flashing RED LED indicates an error. A solid YELLOW LED indicates the charger is in Bulk charging. A flashing YELLOW LED indicates the charger is in Absorption Mode. A flashing GREEN LED indicates battery is fully charged, in Maintenance Mode and ready to use.
What Are Golf Cart Batteries? On average, electric golf motors operate at 36 or 48 volts and draw between 50-70 amps of current while cruising at about 15 miles per hour.
In the case of a 48v golf cart with flooded batteries, the target voltage is 57.6 – 58.8 volts, so expect 2.4 – 2.5 volts per cell.
Ebike Battery 48V 13AH has 625Watt power meaning that a 250Watts motor with a 48v ebike battery at 13AH will drive for 2.5 – 3 hours at full throttle without stopping or in other words 40+ miles.
A 48v 10ah battery will have 480wh. The 48v battery will give you better range because more energy is stored, provided you go the same speed. I use Wh to calculate range per charge.
Check Your Connections

Generally, if you plug in your charger, and nothing happens, this is most likely a problem with your batteries or connections. To know whether your batteries need replacement or recharging, you should own a voltage tester.

Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the charger`s output terminals. The voltage should be within the charger`s rated output voltage. A multimeter measures the charger`s amp output while charging the battery. The amp output should be within the charger`s rated output amperage.
Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the charger`s output terminals. The voltage should be within the charger`s rated output voltage. A multimeter measures the charger`s amp output while charging the battery. The amp output should be within the charger`s rated output amperage.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

On 2006 EZGO electric golf cart, 36 volt. Cart intermittently goes very very slow. Sometimes, after backing up then will go normal 19 MPH. Turn it off and the goes slow again. facts – batteries tested and show 6 volts each and full set tests at 36v. Cart never had this problem until ran out of power and was towed about 1000 yards. I was told by by the person towing the cart that he put the control switch from Run to Tow. Any ideas what the problem could be?
ANSWER : He may not have known to put it in tow mode and doesn’t want to get blamed for damage to transmission towing it in wrong gear.

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I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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Club Car 1998 Electric DS Golf Cart. Battery charger was unplugged for a month or so and once realized it was plugged back in but batteries have not recharged. How can we get the batteries to recharge?
ANSWER : Take the batteries into any major name auto parts store (NAPA, Parts Plus, Auto Zone, etc) and have them do a load test on them. If you have a 12 volt system the battery must hold 11.5 volts under a load to be able to take a charge. If under that voltage it will need a replacement

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Trickle charger for storing electric cushman golf cart
ANSWER : Contact manufacturer, and seek there advice

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I just purchased this Yamaha boat w/Twin MR-1 140hp motors, less than 100hrs (60 prox)and the starboard motor only reached 8000rpm on a 10000 redline spec (the port motor reaches 10000rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs immediatly and now the motor reaches 9500rpm. When the plugs were replaced the plug wire top of the plugs had a black powder residue (like graphite)and #1 & 4 plug electrode end were black minimal soot and #2 & #3 had a white color residue on the ceramic.

Any suggestions to attain the full 10000rpm?

A Yamaha dealer is 100 miles, so I would like to fix myself if possible. Thanks

ANSWER : I never rec’d an answer…..I WANT A REFUND!

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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2004 Club Car DS Electric Golf Cart: Jerking and stalling, slow up hills, charge light on dash. New batteries are load tested, charged, and all connections good. Need info on likely causes other than batteries. What specific components would cause this behavior?
ANSWER : One of the solenoids are bad and is be skipped over or the speed control box is malfuctioning.

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