t in the hole for deflating and I can’t get it to work.
10′ X 10′ Sundome Tent 9160K101

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Is it battery or electricity operated? You might need to replace the battery or hook it up to the right outlet. Follow the instructions in inserting it to the hole. Make sure you press the deflate button and not the inflate button. If the pump device is really not working, you can temporarily manually deflate the air bed by unhooking the air release nozzle. Press it slightly to allow the mattress to deflate faster. Step on the mattress lightly to force air out a bit. Source: http://www.bestmattressreviews.com

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Locate the valve where you put your pump to inflate the airbed. Open the valve. You should instantly see and hear the airbed begin to deflate as the pressure is released. Gently press on the airbed to squeeze the air out.
If an air bed is not inflating, the pump could be faulty, or it has a leak. If the pump is not working, inflate the air bed by using a regular trash bag, a hairdryer, or a vacuum cleaner with a blow function. If the air mattress has sprung a leak, find the leak and patch it or fix it using a hot glue gun.
The “no-hole-deflation” can be caused by overloading

Do not over-exceed the maximum weight capacity of your bed. Also, it does not matter whether people are sleeping or sitting on the mattress, the air mattress will not develop a slow leak if the weight requirement is followed to the later.

Reasons that an air bed may lose air include: room temperature, over-exceeding the maximum weight capacity of the mattress, air loss due to punctures, over inflation of the air mattress, stretching the air mattress, sitting on the edge of the mattress, improper storage and punctures from kids and pets.
You can unplug it once inflated. All Air mattress loose air after time and you need to replug to add more air. Not necessary to keep plugged in though.
Air loss can be caused by a loose or broken connection, or a leak in your air chamber, pump, or hoses. Complete troubleshooting to fix the problem. If you have already completed troubleshooting for Traditional Sleep Number beds, follow the appropriate link to provide the results of troubleshooting: Hose Swapping.
Move your head along the surface with your ear near the mattress. Your ear is more sensitive to feeling escaping air. Escaping air will also make a hissing sound. Listening for escaping air is more effective in finding large holes or leaks rather than small ones.
Air mattresses are ideal for camping or last-minute overnight guests, but a good air mattress can also work well to sleep on every night. These inflatable beds are ideal in tight places and communal living situations. They can be a cost-effective way to a great night`s sleep, too.
fully inflate the mattress and then continue to top off the air periodically. for the next 48 hours. . Don`t lay on it or put any weight on it!. Just let it sit fully expanded..
Does an AeroBed need to stay plugged in. In order for the AeroBed to stay properly inflated during the night, it does need to stay plugged in all night. However, it is a good idea to unplug the AeroBed when it is not in use.
As previously mentioned, during cooler weather, the air in the mattress tends to condense, and the bed deflates. When the air gets low, the bed is not functioning as highly and is more prone to tears or holes. To mitigate the chances of developing holes and tears, pay close attention to the temperature.
To deflate an air bed without a pump, lay the mattress on a cleared floor surface, open the air valve, and apply constant pressure using your hands and knees to force the air out of the mattress. Fold the mattress carefully to make sure that it is completely deflated.
One property of gas is that it has no definite volume and can be compressed. Hence, even when the mattress is fully inflated, air can still be pumped into the mattress as there are “empty spaces” between the air particles, just like in the aforementioned Scenario #2.
If using a manual pump, start pumping.

Though these aren`t as quick and effortless as electric pumps, they`re usually quite effective in their own right. The two main types of manual pumps used for inflating air mattresses are: Hand pumps: Usually large, standing pumps operated with an “up-and-down” motion.

Press and hold the learn button on the power down box to slowly force the bed to go flat.
Air mattress leaks are usually caused by a small hole or tear in the vinyl. In some cases, the source of a leak could also be a damaged gasket. Either way, the next step is to locate the source. Rips and tears will usually be quick to locate.
Air Out the Room

To help prevent moisture buildup in your bed, it`s never a bad idea to air out your bedroom. Strip the bedding from the mattress, open the windows, and turn on a fan. With the help of a friend, you can prop the mattress up against the wall so that the fresh air reaches both sides.

No set amount of time is advised for keeping an air mattress filled, which is the first thing we should make clear. The major issue with leaving your mattress inflated is that you increase the likelihood that an accident may occur.
Air Out the Room

To help prevent moisture buildup in your bed, it`s never a bad idea to air out your bedroom. Strip the bedding from the mattress, open the windows, and turn on a fan. With the help of a friend, you can prop the mattress up against the wall so that the fresh air reaches both sides.

No set amount of time is advised for keeping an air mattress filled, which is the first thing we should make clear. The major issue with leaving your mattress inflated is that you increase the likelihood that an accident may occur.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
ANSWER : Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

Almost new air mattress has a hole in seam. No
ANSWER : Contact local vehicle trailer repair garage.they will probably have rubberised repair patches that they use on curtain sided trailers.it should do the job.

I have a wildwood le 25bhbs and the only towing lights working are my signal lights. can’t get running lights or brake lights to work. I saw where it looked like the towing harness may have been pinched. So I repaired that, but, they still do not work. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere I need to check? Do I need to hook the trailer up to my trailer hitch before they will work? Is there a wiring diagram or repair manual somewhere I can get? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
ANSWER : There should be an inline fuse, check that first.

I just bought a Coleman air mattress. It has an electric pump that blew it up quickly. There is another device to use to deflate it. My question is how does that work?


ANSWER : Hello.The fitting goes on the air inlet side and causes the blower to pull the air out of the mattress, that is, you use the same pump to reverse the air flow.Best regards, –W/D–