has over time progressively gotten worse, to the point now that I can no longer start the engine. The problem started when the engine spin when starting began getting slower and slower. Starter was replaced but did not help. New battery did not help either. Found that it would spin over a little better if I used full choke when starting. This got me by for a while but now that does not work. I had read about a problem with “compression release” not working correctly and think that is my problem. When trying to start, the engine will only spin about half a turn and completely stop, apparently on the compression stroke and not enough power to pass that point. I would like to find out more about the “compression release” mechanism and what steps I need to take to correct the problem, if that turns out to be the problem.
Thanks, Roger
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

You Lose Power in the Middle of Mowing:

Here`s why this happens and what you can do: Dirty Air Filter on Your Lawn Mower: Clean or replace. Dirty Spark Plug: Clean or replace. Build Up of Clippings & Debris: Clean underside of your lawn mower deck as noted above.

The most common reason for a surging lawn mower engine is a blockage in the fuel supply, but there are other possibilities: Bad gas. Bad spark plug. Dirty/faulty carburetor.
Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten. Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace. Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If this doesn`t work, you might need a new fuel filter.
Stale fuel, dirt, and debris are the most common cause of outdoor power equipment not starting or running properly. If you store equipment with untreated gas in the tank, it can lead to engine damage.
The buying spree lacked strategic focus and ultimately failed to turn around the company`s decline. Rather than investing in research and innovation, Briggs` management tried to buy success while continuing to enrich its executives and stockholders.
A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won`t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug.
Engine hunting and surging at idle is usually caused by a fuel delivery, air leak, or governor system problem. Cleaning/overhauling the carburettor, adjustment of the governor, and/or changing the air filer may be required.
This is caused by a rich/lean cycle at idle. As the motor leans out the RPM`s increase and richen up the motor, when the motor richens the RPM`s decrease and the motor leans out again. This continual cycle is known as “blower surge”.
A Dirty Carburetor Can Cause a Lawnmower To Start Then Die

By far, the most common issue that causes a stalled motor is a dirty carburetor. The carburetor on your engine is the thing that draws in air and mixes it with the fuel. Contrary to what the movies might make you think, gasoline itself is not very flammable.

The most common cause of a mower that runs for thirty minutes and then dies is a faulty armature. A faulty gas cap is the second most likely cause.
A dead battery is the most common reason why engines fail to start up. A common reason for batteries to fail is drain. Your car`s battery typically expends a small portion of its storage to start your car up, and then recharges from your alternator as you move.
If your Briggs & Stratton engine has a spark but won`t run, then it is most likely a problem with the gas or air intake in the engine. The spark on the spark plug ignites the gas in the piston, but if the air filter is clogged or the gas can`t flow, then the engine won`t start.
Consistent starts: Briggs and Stratton engines have reliable and consistent starts. Wide power range: The company creates small engines for basic riding mowers up to commercial grade equipment.
Briggs and Stratton engines are generally cheaper but are still good engines. For consumer use – do the maintenance and they will last as long as the lawn mower. Briggs and stratton mowers are refined, durable, simple lawn mowers.
The engine pulley

One pulley is connected to the engine while the other is located behind the lawn mower. The engine pulley on the other hand is located on the engine`s crankshaft. Increase the size of both pulleys will significantly increase the speed of your lawn mower.

If the spark fires in the wrong cylinder at the wrong time, this is sure to lead to a backfire, among other problems! This problem can also occur if the spark plug wires are crossed, say, after having your spark plugs replaced — but, again, modern cars have engineered this problem away for the most part.
One of the most common causes of a sputtering engine is an issue with the vehicle`s fuel system—the filter, pump, and injectors. These three critical components work together to ensure fuel flows smoothly from the fuel tank to your engine`s fuel injectors, and then pumps into the engine evenly.
The problem may involve an annoying change (up/down) of engine speed while cruising at a steady pace, a low drop (or even cut-out) at idle or when approaching a stop, a wild high engine speed of several thousand rpm followed by a drop to near zero, etc.
RPM fluctuation is a common issue for cars with faulty spark plugs as they fire the fuel with the pistons. If they wear out, your acceleration slows, and jerking and misfire start occurring, which, in combination, causes poor fuel economy and vibrations.
Engine surging is usually a warning sign that your car or truck is having combustion problems. Since a vehicle`s ignition wires and spark plugs play a major role in proper engine performance, it is likely time to check your engine`s electrical components.
Among the potential underlying causes are vacuum leaks, EGR system malfunctions, malfunctioning oxygen sensors, dirty fuel injectors, fuel pump malfunction, faulty spark plugs, a faulty mass airflow sensor, or a faulty throttle position sensor.
If your lawn mower starts, runs briefly, then dies these are the four most common reasons that`s happening: Dirty carburetor / clogged carburetor bowl. Old gasoline that has gone bad. Dirty or defective spark plugs.
Another reason a mower might start and then stop is that the air filter becomes blocked. If this is the problem, then it`s good news because it`s easy to fix since most mower filters are cleanable. Check to see if the filter is blocked and clean as necessary – then try again to see if this has solved the problem.
With engine running:

Spray down and around the carburetor throat to remove deposits from the throttle plate area. Do not spray down carburetor throat with engine off. Do not spray below throttle plate. Choke: If choke sticks, remove choke cover and spray.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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Have a john deere 318 riding lawn mower. it had been hard to start with it taking several turns of the key to do anything, then would not always engage. once engaged, would start with no problem. now when the key is turned, does nothing. checked 2 fuses near battery and tried jumping but no change. suspect starter and or solenoid. john deer shop claims starter price is $505 with almost 4 hrs labor too. is there good way to test to see if starter, solenoid, condenser, switch, etc is problem? what is the easiest way to access and remove the staqrter and solenoid? is there a relatively cheap equivalent to this starter and solenoid?
ANSWER : Usually the shop would make the fixing of an item to look so complicated this is usually to ensure that the customer comes back. To confirm if the starter is the cause of the machine not starting. tell the shop to check the machine if either of the 2 options are the cause of the problem as they will have setup procedures for doing this. Do not settle for cheaper equivalent as this will only cause further damage to the unit. It is rather concrete that starting problems are caused by the starter.Hope this has been helpful?

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I have a TX500, never been used (just out of the box) and had to get an electrician to my home for this problem. It will start rolling but quits in a few seconds. The electrician believes that it is a problem in the sensor that rides at the belt. There is only one sensor in the pulley; he thinks that perhaps there should be two as there is a hole placement opposite the one that is in there. When the belt quits, it goes to a number 3 on the board which he thinks is the sensor as well. If he is correct, where do we get another magnet to place there? If he is not correct, please offer help. We did not get a owners manual in the box and surely could use one; where can we get one? Please help…thankyou
ANSWER : Hello,I believe the best thing to do at this point is to look for a way to get the manual of the device, this will give a full guide and better understanding on how to fix this problem.Check maualnguide.com to search for the manual of the device, the link provides almost all manuals to all device.Take care.

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