not crank, absolutely nothing when you pushed the engine mounted start button.
** I disconnected the positive lead from the battery to the engine and started troubleshooting with an ohm meter.
** In the course of troubleshooting I noted that the 20amp fuse in the small black holder mounted below and to the rear of the solenoid had blown.
**I replaced it with the on engine mounted spare.
**When I started to reinstall the positive battery cable I noticed that there was obviously a current draw as there was some slight arching when the power cable contacted the positive battery terminal.
**Since I have switched this motors controls from tiller steer to a wheel steer i have left the start switch on the engine but moved the kill switch and an on/off switch to the small center console.
**Both the on/off switch and the kill switch were in the engine off position.
**Other info: Obviously something is drawing current so i have left the battery unhooked. BTW the engine now does start and run when the starter button is pushed. I had noticed the day before that when i was test running the engine the evening prior to going out that my electronic tach stopped working. After noting the small sparks i tried disconnecting a few things and noticed the sparks stopped when the red wire to the ignition box was disconnected.
***Any clues as to what is wrong here??
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The main reason for your outboard engine not working will be the fuel system, often because fuel has been left in the engine over winter. The fuel goes through a chemical reaction producing ethanol, which will prevent the engine from running. There may also be dirt blocking the filter, lines or carburettor.
If it`s not engaging or turning over, you may have a faulty electrical system. For electric-starting models, you`ll want to check the main fuse to confirm it`s not blown. Start by unscrewing and removing the electrical cover. Next, use a pair of pliers to remove the fuse holder.
If you have checked the battery switch and charged the batteries, but your boat engine still won`t start, check the battery cables. Make sure the connections that run between the engine and the battery are not loose or corroded. Reconnect or replace any battery cables that have become disconnected or damaged.
25 – 15 hp 25 hp

Our 432-cc 25-hp portable outboard features a streamlined, portable design and class-leading power-to-weight.

Old spark plugs are another culprit which might make a bike hard to start. If the plug is old and worn the spark will be weaker, making it more difficult to ignite the mixture. Keeping fresh plugs in the engine can greatly improve the bikes starting tendencies.
If the engine cranks slowly or doesn`t crank at all, it`s possible your battery may be dead or low. Use a voltmeter to check the condition of your battery. If the voltmeter reads below 12 volts, your battery most likely is the problem and may need to be jumped or replaced.
No. A battery is not required to run the rope start models. However, if you have electrical accessories you want to operate and would like to take advantage of the charging system, the capability is already there.
Maximum output: 25HP (18.4 KW) Maximum operation range: 5000-6000 rpm. Fuel Consumption at W.O.T: 8.8 L/Hr.
The all-new F25 Portable four stroke features a Single Overhead Camshaft, 2-cylinder powerhead, for a compact design that weighs in at only 126 pounds.
Spark plug fires and ignites the compressed air/fuel mixture just before the end of the compression (i.e., previous) stroke. This ignition/combustion forces the piston down the cylinder bore and rotates the crankshaft, propelling the vehicle forward.
Following this achievement, in 1998, Yamaha developed the lightweight, fuel efficient F100, which utilized dual overhead cam technology, and the F115, which was equipped with an electronic fuel injection system.
Always warm up the motor thoroughly at idle before running at higher engine speeds. For the next eight hours you can run the motor in standard fashion but never for longer than five minutes at wide-open throttle.
While 4-stroke engines perform well and generally last longer than 2-stroke engines, 2-stroke engines are lighter and faster than 4-stroke engines.
As you`ve read, the 2-stroke bikes have smaller engines, are lighter, have less traction, but more initial power. 4-stroke bikes are heavier, have more stability and traction on the track, but have the higher horsepower for overall power. This means that both are fast.
Pull the starter cord or turn the key to turn on the motor.

If you have a starter cord, pull slowly until you feel some resistance, then yank it quickly and forcefully. It may take several pulls to get the motor running. If you have an electric start motor with a key, just turn it forward in the ignition like a car.

A four-stroke engine is an internal combustion engine that utilises four distinct piston strokes (intake, compression, power, and exhaust) to complete one operating cycle. A complete operation in a four-stroke engine requires two revolutions (7200) of the crankshaft.
A dead battery is the most common reason why engines fail to start up. A common reason for batteries to fail is drain. Your car`s battery typically expends a small portion of its storage to start your car up, and then recharges from your alternator as you move.
If you do have a blown engine, whether or not it can be fixed depends upon the extensiveness of the damage. If the damage is minimal, and a few parts can be replaced, the problem can be fixed. However, if the damage is great and impossible to repair, you may need a complete engine replacement.
Open the throttle quickly. You should see the accelerator pump system discharge a squirt of fuel into each primary barrel. The flow should continue for a few seconds after the throttle valve reaches the wide-open throttle position. If not, the accelerator pump system is defective.
A weak accelerator pump, worn throttle shafts, or dirt inside the carburetor are a few of the problems that might be causing the poor air/fuel mixture. Another recognizable sign of carburetor trouble is rough idling .
Putting a car battery in a boat will cause it to degrade much more quickly. You could possibly damage it and cause dangerous chemicals to leak from the cell. Instead, you should get a marine battery designed for the intensities of the open water.
100 to 1 Fuel Oil Ratio.
25:1 – Mix 200ml of oil per 5ltrs of fuel.

This mixture is very rich and is usually recommended for running in brand new two stroke outboards and when running in rebuilt or reconditioned engines.

Generally speaking, you can expect a 25hp outboard to reach speeds of up to 25 knots, which is around 28. 7 miles per hour (mph). Smaller boats typically reach a maximum speed of around 15-18 knots, or 17.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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Have a 2004 kawasaki 3010 desiel mule that has worked fine for years with regular maint. then yesterday we started it as usual with the glow plug lights indicator and it ran for a few minutes until we went to take of and it just died. period. we tried to check thing out and finally found a bad fuse in the glow plug fuse holder, changed it with the same size and it ran the rest of the time we needed it and then again today we started and ran it same as yesterday and it worked fine for about 30 to 45 minutes and will out in the field it just quite. i immediately started searching for signs of heat or melting of wire or other signs and found none. the fuse that goes into this circuit is a 5 amp and all i had was a 20 so i said lets see what happens. it immediately blow the fuse without any out ward sign of problems.??????
ANSWER : Replace the glow plugs one or more are shorted

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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