e. Looking for the easiest fastest way to get this problem under control. What products work the best without hurting the Koi?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Hi,

I have found some useful information in order to remove/control algae.

Please go through the information provided via:

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=0+1968&aid=2943

http://www.pondkoi.com/algae_1b.htm

There are also KOI CARE ALGAECIDE that kills all types of algae, and it does not affect plants, Koi, or Goldfish. It does not contain copper. It is inexpensive at $17.50/pint, $27/quart, $39/1/2 gallon, $69/gallon
http://www.koifishponds.com/algaecide.htm

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The algae has to flow in front of the UV lights for them to work. This means you`ll either need a lot of lights or more than one type of filtration. You pond also has to have the right speed of water flow. If it`s too fast the pond UV lights won`t work.
If installed correctly, Aqua Ultraviolet guarantees your green pond water will clear up in 3 to 5 days while using the device. Consider this piece of equipment if you want minimal pond maintenance, if you`re suffering from murky green water or if your pond is subject to direct sunlight and warmer temperatures.
UV lights work when water from your pond is pumped through their light path. The single-celled, free-flowing algae within your pond water is then exposed to these high levels of ultraviolet light. This light destroys their DNA and kills them.
Some great products to put in ponds to kill algae are beneficial bacteria, pond flocculant, and extra aeration. To prevent algae you can use aquatic plants, aeration, regular cleaning, and regular maintenance.
If it is not kept clean, insufficient levels of UV light will be able to infiltrate the water and the algae will not be killed. Some larger UV sterilizers are fitted with in-built wiper mechanism for easier maintenance.
How Long Does it Take UV light to Kill Bacteria in Water? The UV water purification process is quick! As water flows through the UV chamber, bacteria and other waterborne microbes are killed within ten seconds. The UV water disinfection process utilizes special UV lamps that emit UV light of a particular wavelength.
UV Sterilizers Kill Harmful Algae

In addition to bacteria and parasites, UV sterilizers kill algae, another kind of microorganism that gives aquarists trouble. Algae are the aquatic microorganisms that form green slime on your aquarium surfaces. They cause your water to become murky.

Light: Algae needs light energy to grow. The more sunlight that penetrates the area, the higher the chance for algae to sustain life. Nutrients: Nutrients, like nitrogen and phosphorus, fuel algae growth.
There are no strict rules, but it`s common to want to use a UV lamp of between 8-12W per 10,000 litres. If you have a particularly green pond or a pond more prone to algae and bacteria than usual, you can increase the wattage of the UV light to provide more clarification.
Filtration and UV Reduction.

In Winter, UV is not required due to the low water temperatures, so the ultraviolet clarifier can be switched off and disconnected from the power supply to preserve the life of the UV lamp.

Barley straw. Barley straw is a natural way to fight algae. On contact with water, the straw starts to break down, and as it does so it releases peroxides into the water which combat algae. Available in mini bales, or as a concentrated extract of barley straw liquid, it`s a natural way of chemically fighting algae.
Barley straw does not kill existing algae, but it inhibits the new growth of algae. The exact mechanism is poorly understood, but it seems that barley straw, when exposed to sunlight and in the presence of oxygen, produces a chemical that inhibits algae growth.
How long will it take to clear the pond? Once fully mature, you should notice a difference within one week of turning the U.V.C. on and full clarity should be achieved in two weeks.
If the algae whizzes too quickly past the UV bulb, there won`t be sufficient contact and the green water will not be cleared. Use a fine mechanical filter after the UVC to catch the disrupted algal cells.
Ultraviolet light gives desmid alga cell a bright red glow | U.S. Geological Survey.
If the algae whizzes too quickly past the UV bulb, there won`t be sufficient contact and the green water will not be cleared. Use a fine mechanical filter after the UVC to catch the disrupted algal cells.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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I have a wildwood le 25bhbs and the only towing lights working are my signal lights. can’t get running lights or brake lights to work. I saw where it looked like the towing harness may have been pinched. So I repaired that, but, they still do not work. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere I need to check? Do I need to hook the trailer up to my trailer hitch before they will work? Is there a wiring diagram or repair manual somewhere I can get? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
ANSWER : There should be an inline fuse, check that first.

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Caravan water heater not letting hot water through
ANSWER : Pipes are rusted and cloggen from the inside of them

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I have a volvo penta md7a marine diesel engine fitted in my sailing boat. Recently, I changed the bottom sea **** which was almost blocked. Apparently the new sea **** is working well as it should. But this week with no apparent reason and without use of engine, I noticed that the cooling system water cup (the recipient which connects with the sea **** hose and the water pump hose) is empty and it Im not able to keep it full like it was before.The water vanishes every time I tried to fill it up in order to keep the water running throught the system. However the waterpump seems to be working. But almost no water is coming out of the exhaustor, of course, just a few drops once in a while. What might be going on ?? Thanks.
ANSWER : I don’t have a picture of the installation, but I can imagine a water filter above the water line with an improperly fitted cover and an air leak that lets the seawater drain out – losing the prime. Old Swampy in New Hampshire

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I have Detroit 60 series installed on a launch. Recently the Starboard unit suffers a catastrophic failure and piston No2 came out of the block, making a big hole. This engines are using heat exchangers, and sea water cooled Charge Air Coolers and sea water self priming raw water pump. We contact the local dealer an the veredict was a “Massive salt water ingestion” that caused an Hydraulic lock and damaged cyls 6 and 2. They say that the water came from the deck covers, but there is no way for that to happen, I think they dont want to honor any warranty, because we suspect that the water came from the Charge Air Cooler. I want to know if the CAC can cause that type of failures and if anyone had a similar problem. The engine cost is about 66K and only had 2300 hours.
ANSWER : I would have to say that a sleeve got pitted or lost an oring or the CAC sprung a leak. I believe you are correct in your assumption that the water did not enter the unit in the manner they are saying. The only real way to tell is a complete tear down and someone is going to have to pay. They are also a high maintenance item and someone is going to say that the preventive maintenance was not done.

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