Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Hello,Lowering the throttle should shut it off. If it has a brake handle bar
then releasing it should shut it off. If all else fails ground the
spark plug wire (with an insulated screw driver) usually done at the
coil (may need adjustment).Good luck

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Disconnected, dirty or fouled spark plugs are common causes for engines that won`t start. For small engines, spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or after 25 hours of use. You should also check to make sure the spark plug gap is set correctly.
When a mower is working correctly, releasing the bail lever turns off the mower. If your mower doesn`t have a bail lever, then the throttle lever doubles as the on-off control.
If the engine will not crank, you likely have a problem with… Discharged / defective battery or faulty electrical connections. To address these issues, check the battery and charging system for problems. Faulty parts: potentially the safety interlocks, starter motor switch (open circuit) or solenoid.
Your lawn mower turning over but not starting due to several reasons, such as a faulty or disconnected plug, a disconnected spark plug wire, a clogged air filter, or a contaminated fuel tank. A faulty carburetor, a dirty cutting deck, or a dysfunctional flywheel brake can also cause this.
Push Start Your Manual Transmission Vehicle

It`s a way of bypassing your bad starter to get your vehicle running. Sit inside your vehicle with the key held in the start position and the clutch held in. Put it in second gear, then have two or three strong friends push your vehicle.

In bypass starting, you touch a wrench or a screwdriver to the terminals of the starter motor, to the solenoid of a tractor, or to other equipment. This bypasses all tractor-neutral starting switches. Sparks fly and electricity snaps as the circuit is completed, the starter engages and the engine starts.
The most likely culprit is that the ignition switch is failing to ground properly. This is most likely due to poor connection. Clean the wires and connections, then try again, If it still doesn`t stop, you`ll need to replace the ignition itself.
If you just hear a whirring sound like the starter motor is spinning without affecting the motor, then the solenoid is either broken, or there`s a wiring issue on the starter itself. Options are: have the starter rebuilt, replace the whole thing, or see if you can track down the wiring issue on the starter.
Use Carburetor Cleaner

Fortunately, you can generally do this without even taking the carburetor out of the engine. Start by purchasing some commercial lawnmower carburetor cleanerOpens a new window, which comes in a simple spray can and will make it easy to clean the inside and outside of the carb.

A dirty carburetor is one of the most common causes for a lawn mower not being able to start after sitting unused for months or years at a time.
If your Briggs & Stratton engine has a spark but won`t run, then it is most likely a problem with the gas or air intake in the engine. The spark on the spark plug ignites the gas in the piston, but if the air filter is clogged or the gas can`t flow, then the engine won`t start.
The clicking noise comes from a part called the starter solenoid. The solenoid connects the battery to the starter motor when the solenoid is energized. The key switch and the safety switches in the starter circuit combine to energize the solenoid. If the solenoid is clicking, the circuit that triggers it is working.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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Have a john deere 318 riding lawn mower. it had been hard to start with it taking several turns of the key to do anything, then would not always engage. once engaged, would start with no problem. now when the key is turned, does nothing. checked 2 fuses near battery and tried jumping but no change. suspect starter and or solenoid. john deer shop claims starter price is $505 with almost 4 hrs labor too. is there good way to test to see if starter, solenoid, condenser, switch, etc is problem? what is the easiest way to access and remove the staqrter and solenoid? is there a relatively cheap equivalent to this starter and solenoid?
ANSWER : Usually the shop would make the fixing of an item to look so complicated this is usually to ensure that the customer comes back. To confirm if the starter is the cause of the machine not starting. tell the shop to check the machine if either of the 2 options are the cause of the problem as they will have setup procedures for doing this. Do not settle for cheaper equivalent as this will only cause further damage to the unit. It is rather concrete that starting problems are caused by the starter.Hope this has been helpful?

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TC5000 and after extended use I smell burning and upon removing the belt cover and drive belt I felt of the motor on the motor side of the drive pulley and it was ”red-hot”, obviously the source of the smell of the burning. The motor spins freely without any rubbing noise. The drive pulley (motor side) and the tread pulley appear to be alligned. One curious thing is that the threaded motor output shaft is recessed about 3/8” from the outside edge of the pulley. Could it be the bearing on the pulley side of the motor? I am dumbfounded as to what the solution might be. Note that I could not enter the exact product as my model seemed to be invalid. My model is the TC5000. Thanks [email protected]
ANSWER : Just because it spins freely doesnt mean it cant have a shorted winding. Id send it back where it came from or at least replace the motor.

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My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c
ANSWER : Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse

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I don’t know how to get generator motor off of Briggs&Stratton 10H.P.engine to get piston out to change rings.Can anyone tell me how to seperate generator motor from engine.
ANSWER : You must have a 6 – 8 inch three jaw flywheel puller it is fairly difficult to do so have some patience after removing the center nut you must adjust the center shaft on puller to the corect distance on the shaft the nut just came off while positioning the three hooks around the outer ring of the flywheel, they must contact the bottom lip of the flywheel at the same time the center thresded shaft is turned in so you can turn the center shaft nut and provide positive pulling force on the flywheel after you have attained the set up of the puller by hand tighten the center puller threaded shaft to the point where it starts to be hard to turn then while holdind the flywheel by wedging a large screwdriver into the outer ring gear teeth of flywheel turn fly wheel puller center shaft with the appropriate size wrench a half turn the hit the shaft with a hammer twice turn the shaft a 1/4 turn then hit agian etc. until the flywheel pops up and pull off.

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Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again
ANSWER : Check to see if you have a spark -then check if you are still getting fuel-and how old is the fuel-because it is recommended ,an im assuming its a 2 stroke motor,that the fuel should be replace with a fresh 2 stroke mixture every couple of months as the mixture jellyfies and sludges up the carb etc-try those first

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