in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
Sport & Outdoor – Others
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Bad Spark Plugs
Your outboard engine`s ignition system is responsible for igniting the gas, firing up the engine, and keeping it running. If your outboard will not throttle up or your outboard motor dies at idle frequently, chances are you may have problems with your spark plugs.
If the engine stalls when pulling into neutral it does NOT mean your shift interruptor switch is bad. Damage to your drives clutch and shifting components can occur if the cable is bad and you keep using the boat. A bad shift cable to the drive can cause the engine to stall.
Stalling problems can be traced to: A spark plug fouled by fuel, carbon, dirt or oil on the electrodes may not produce a spark strong enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture and start your engine. A dirty flame arrestor/air box can cause your boat engine to stall. Remove the debris using carb cleaner and a wire brush.
Spun Prop A spun prop is one of the most common reasons your powerboat may struggle to achieve appropriate speed at full throttle. This happens when the bond between your boat propeller and the prop shaft is damaged. As a result of this damage, the rubber inserts start spinning independently.
Dirty/Faulty Fuel Injectors – Fuel injection systems play an essential role in starting your vehicle. The system injects fuel and air into the cylinders. If clogged or gummed up, the injectors don`t provide the right mix of fuel and air, resulting in a rough idle or slow acceleration.
Fuel Vein Blockage
Eventually the blockage can cause a complete stoppage of fuel going into the engine, therefore causing it bog down and stop. If you suspect you have a blockage, the best cause of action is to strip down the carburettor and blow down the fuel veins with an air line or air blower.
2 stroke bogging before powerband
If the engine is bogging before it gets to the powerband, then the air-fuel mixture is most likely off. When the engine isn`t burning the proper amount of fuel and air, it won`t produce power and accelerate, giving you the annoying and dangerous “bog”.
These can include a sheared flywheel, poor fuel, partially clogged or failed injector, fouled spark plugs, heavily carboned cylinders, a wrong style propeller, or too large of a prop for the application. These are just a few factors that contribute to stalling.
Dirty or damaged spark plugs make it difficult for your engine to crank. Inspect your spark plugs and replace any spark plugs that are broken or dirty. If the spark plugs in your marine engine are improperly gapped, this can also prevent your boat from starting by delaying engine combustion.
A clogged air filter will starve the engine of oxygen, causing the engine to die at full throttle. A clogged air filter will often cause your engine to idle rough as well. As part of your normal maintenance routine, you should check the air filter for heavy build-up, and replace if necessary.
Every boat owner is different and how far you decide to push your marine engine is in your hands. However, running your boat at Wide-Open Throttle is not bad for your engine and can even help clear out carbon build up.
How to fix it? Cleaning or replacing the fuel filter and adding a fuel injector cleaning treatment to the fuel tank should take care of clogged fuel injectors. If the rough idle persists, it`s time to take your car to an auto repair shop.
In most cases, if your bike absolutely refuses to start, the problem is electrical. The quickest way to find out if it`s electrical is to check the plug for spark. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head and pop it back into the spark plug cap.
Check the following: Clogged muffler, clogged exhaust port, fuel restrictions, low compression, poor ignition spark, too much oil in gas or improper air/fuel mixture in carburetor. . Clean carburetor jets and air filter. Check clutch gear wheel for worn or greasy clutch pads.
2 stroke won`t idle
Whether you have a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke, if the idle adjustment is set too low, the engine won`t stay running. Turn the idle screw in and see if your dirt bike stays running. You may have to turn the idle down slightly as the engine temperature warms up.
Aside from mechanical issues, other factors can affect gas mileage. Miskelley says bad alignment, improperly inflated tires, poor tread and driving habits can make a difference in how far a gallon of gas goes. “Poorly maintained tires can cause your car to pull harder and do extra work to get going,” says Miskelley.
If the engine is low on power, it will bog down when you try to accelerate. This could be caused by a number of different issues, including low compression, a bad timing belt, sucking too much air, or even a head gasket leak.
The most common cause of poor engine airflow is a clogged or damaged air filter. The air filter in your car protects the engine by catching all kinds of debris before it can enter the cylinder and cause more damage.
The most common cause of poor engine airflow is a clogged or damaged air filter. The air filter in your car protects the engine by catching all kinds of debris before it can enter the cylinder and cause more damage.
The most typical causes of a car not accelerating while driving include a faulty sensor, contaminated fuel or air filters, or a faulty timing belt. Generally, this isn`t something you should ignore.
There are a few reasons why your car might be struggling to accelerate. It could be due to a problem with the timing belt, the spark plugs, or the fuel injectors. It could also be because you have a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter. The fuel system may also be low on fuel.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer
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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
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I have a 1996 yamaha wave venture 1100….ran greatsat for 2 yrs..started but only ran for spray into carbs….drained fuel started and ran good. Started about month later and would only run as long as primed with starter fluids…checked fuel filter(ok)…fuel flow to fuel pump ok…output of fuel pump appears ok….but engine will only run as long as starter fluid/gas is sprayed into carbs. I don’t think it’s the carbs as it ran great a month ago…now it’s starving for gas flow….so it appears to be a fuel delivery problem…what would be the sequence of tests up to tearing into the carbs? is there a fuel filter inside the carbs? remember it fires off great when primed…until the fuel spray is consumed…
ANSWER : Check the on/off/reserve valve
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My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..
Take care
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LX 188. Engine suddenly dies. The fluel in the bowel of the fuel filter is empty. If I crank the engine the filter becomes dry and is collapsing some but the engine does not start. When I remove the supply line from the fuel pump to the carberator and crank the enginge there is a strong stream of gas being pumped out. I tap on the carberator ??? is the float is hung not allowing fuel to enter. Cranking the engine with the line off refills the bowel of the gas filter. Reattache line to the carberator===engine starts. Ran perfect for 20minutes then suddenly died. Repeated all the above and engine again started. What to do to fix this? Thanks
ANSWER : Debrie inside the needle and seat area which has to be cleaned out with carburetor cleaner and compressed air
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I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
ANSWER : I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?
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Engine runs rough when we throttle up
ANSWER : Sounds like a spark plug issue. If the spark plug is not torqued after a good number of months it can seep at high rev sustained pressure. Otherwise I would look at the spark compensator or possibly the float.
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