oul the plugs . What would cause this ?
Sport & Outdoor – Others
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Could you provide me the model number of the motor to assit with your query
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Debris such as fishing line, excessive seaweed, beer can rings, or nearly any other material can wrap around the propeller and its spindle. This increases the friction and causes the bog, preventing it from rotating to propel your boat through the water.
Loose fuel line connections, pinched or blocked fuel lines. It would be best to inspect all fuel lines for any bad connections, damage to the line, and leakage issues. Replacing a damaged fuel line is typically the best course, as repairing a damaged line naturally leads to further problems within a short period.
Boat Engine is Sputtering and Losing Power
You most likely have a filter problem or fouled plugs. That could be why your boat motor is losing power. Solution: Replace the in-line fuel filter.
If the engine is low on power, it will bog down when you try to accelerate. This could be caused by a number of different issues, including low compression, a bad timing belt, sucking too much air, or even a head gasket leak.
This can happen when the pump itself is not working properly or when the fuel pressure regulator is not maintaining the proper fuel pressure in the fuel system causing the engine to starve for fuel.
Following this achievement, in 1998, Yamaha developed the lightweight, fuel efficient F100, which utilized dual overhead cam technology, and the F115, which was equipped with an electronic fuel injection system.
A sputtering engine is a sign of a lean fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This can happen if you have a clogged somewhere in the fuel system that impedes the delivery of fuel into the chamber. For example, your fuel filter or fuel lines might be clogged.
They ignite the air and gas mixture in the combustion chamber to fire up the engine and keep it running. Dirty, old, worn, or misplaced spark plugs can cause your engine to misfire – sputter – and even stall if the plugs are really bad.
The “Bog” simply means the engine is not receiving enough fuel when you go to wide open throttle. While there are other issues that may cause similar reactions within the carburetor, often the problem can be traced back to the accelerator pump system. Incorrect adjustment is the typical culprit.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
I just purchased this Yamaha boat w/Twin MR-1 140hp motors, less than 100hrs (60 prox)and the starboard motor only reached 8000rpm on a 10000 redline spec (the port motor reaches 10000rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs immediatly and now the motor reaches 9500rpm. When the plugs were replaced the plug wire top of the plugs had a black powder residue (like graphite)and #1 & 4 plug electrode end were black minimal soot and #2 & #3 had a white color residue on the ceramic.
Any suggestions to attain the full 10000rpm?
A Yamaha dealer is 100 miles, so I would like to fix myself if possible. Thanks
I never rec’d an answer…..I WANT A REFUND!
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c
Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse
1985 40 hp Johnson outboard wouldnt open up and
Sounds like your mix is off and it’s fowling the plugs. probably too rich. make sure the level in your carb bowls isn’t too high. Really sounds like you should clean and bench set your carbs. Especially if a plug change helps but doesn’t last, then it’s got to be your fuel mix, or maybe timing.
Water in the fuel tank of my Zodiac dinghy with Yamaha 2001 50 HP
I’d add a little dry gas to **** up any remaining water and give it a shot
I have a 2002 Yamaha 15 hp four stroke outboard motor that is have carburetor problems . It seems like the float valve is not working or something . It blows fuel out the top of the carb . ( that is where the overflow is ) The flaot and float valve are fairly new . Help ! Thanks , D
I have to same motor with the same problem. Its the injector, it gets gummed up from the ethenal in the fuel. within the carbourator there is a little pin that is stuck and then fuel spills right out the corburator. People will tell you its the diaphram but not the case. It needs a little tap on the side of carburator and will correct itself(likely).