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Sport & Outdoor – Others
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
There could be several reasons why a WaveRunner is not starting. The simplest and most common fault is when the shut-off clip is not properly attached or the tank is empty. Other common reasons could be electrical issues like malfunctions with the battery, spark plugs, fuses, or wires.
The fuses on a jet ski are located in a plastic box, known as a fuse box or electrical box. This sealed grey or black plastic box is mounted inside the engine compartment usually near the battery or hidden somewhere under the top deck.
Most manufacturers produce machines designed to last around 10 years; at 30 hours a year, the approximate average lifespan of a PWC would be around 300 hours.
In spite of the lower displacement and the 2-cylinders, the Yamaha GP760 produces no less than 90HP.
If you do run your WaveRunner out of the water without proper water supply, it should be for only fifteen seconds maximum. If the jet ski is not in the water or getting a proper supply of water, the engine and exhaust are at high risk of overheating.
Locate the 3-pin cluster/diagnostic connector in the front storage compartment of the ski. You may need to open an access panel on some models to get to the connector. The connector is a three pin dark gray connector.
As a rule of thumb, an average jet ski is used around 30 hours every year, but this number can vary widely depending on the owners. It`s not uncommon to see a 10 year old jet ski with less than 100 engine hours, while other owners ride 100 hours every year!
50-52mph. matter where I set the trim.
In May 2002 Yamaha launched the world`s first low-emission PWC featuring a 4-stroke engine: the FX-140. The FX-140 was followed by 4-stroke updates of not only the WaveRunner (Marine Jet), but also the entire PWC range; 5 years later, in 2009, domestic runabout models all featured 4-stroke engines.
Common check valve problems include noise (water hammer), vibration/chattering, reverse flow, sticking, leakage, missing internals, component wear or damage. However, it is worth mentioning that normally the real cause is the wrong size, spring, and/or style for the check valve application.
With no check valve or if yours fails, the water in the drop pipe and system will flow back when the pump stops. This can cause the pump to rotate in the wrong direction as the water returns to the source.
Not having a sump pump check valve installed causes the water in the discharge pipe to empty back into the sump pump pit. This makes the water level in the sump pit rise and a high water level can cause the pump to run more often, increasing your energy costs.
If you live in a place where temperatures get below 40°F/5°C you`ll definitely need to winterize your jet ski. If you fail to do so, the water inside the engine, exhaust and intercooler can expand and crack the metal housing, causing all sorts of damage and problems.
The motor works hard to suck water into the vent at the bottom of the machine, and propel it from the back. Some of that water is used to cool down the motor so the watercraft does not overheat. Once the water has completed its cooling duties, it is expelled out the back of the vehicle in a neat water plume.
The Engine Control Unit (ECU) is essentially your jetski`s `brain` and controls various engine functions, including RPM Limits, Timing, fuel and throttle position.
The OBD II DLC is usually located under the instrument panel on the driver side, though there are several exceptions. The OBD-II connector is required to be within 2 feet of the steering wheel (unless an exemption is applied for by the manufacturer, in which case it is still somewhere within reach of the driver).
Spark Plugs
Although according to the manual you only need to inspect the plugs periodically (and it doesn`t describe a replacement schedule), it`s recommended that you replace them at least every second year.
Yes, jet skis have a charging system, however, it`s not the same system as in a car, as it can`t fully charge the battery in a jet ski. Instead, it can only maintain the current charge in your battery! This means if you start your ride with a weak battery, you can`t expect the jet ski to fully charge it.
The average person puts 30 hours a year on their jet ski. So if the jet ski is 5 years old, I would expect it to have 150 hours. If that jet ski has under that number, I consider that a win. If that jet ski has over 40 hours a year, I start looking for other factors to determine if the jet ski is worth it.
Generally speaking, the average PWC can go around 60-120 miles on a tank of gas, and the average PWC uses 3-4 gallons of gas per hour.
Overriding the speed limiter unit (or riding an international model) you can expect around 75 mph on the fastest jet skis. But with additional modifications, you can reach 80-90 mph! What are the fastest production Kawasaki jet skis on the market?
As a rule of thumb, if you`re connected to the hose, you can run the engine around 2 minutes. But without any cooling, it`s the best practice to not exceed 15 seconds in case of most jet ski models. Beyond this time limit, you have to keep the RPM low.
As a rule of thumb, saltwater is bad for jet skis as the corrosive saltwater can damage the jet ski`s electronics and/or rust its metal parts.
Use Premium gasoline with an AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 91 (or an RON octane rating of 95). These octane requirements can also be found in the Sea-Doo Operator`s Guide that comes with each craft.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.
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I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?
ANSWER : Try cleaning the carbs and the fuel lines, filter
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Yamaha waverunner I acquired a yamaha waverunner that has been sitting for 8 years. i finally got it to start and after letting it run dry for about 20-30 seconds…oil and water began running out of the rear below the propulsion outlet and under the rear deck..the motor compartment is free of any oil or damage and the engine still starts. Any idea on the damage or what should I do at this point?
ANSWER : Check for corrosion of the engine as leaving it for long any water left in the system will cause problems.
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I have a yamaha raptor 4 wheeler. I can not get it to start until I unplug the regulator module in the back or the conection plug on left side of machine. the electrical line comes from the regulator through the plug down into left side of engine. not sure what is in there? with machine running if I plug the lines together it will die Unplug and it will fire right up. Any help?
Thanks RW
Thanks RW
ANSWER : You most defiantly have a short you need to trace the wires down
and find out witch one is grounded
and find out witch one is grounded
you may even have a bad alternator that’s grounded or the regulator
the way they make things to day its very hard to test some units
its all going to be trial and error
hope this helps you
bob
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I own an 1992 Yamaha Phazer II PZ 480. I have done a bunch of work trying to get this hunk o stuff going. I have good spark and compression from the motor. I rebuilt both carbs and both clutches it starts and runs fine but when I try to move it just boggs down- no power? Where should l look next to get this thing moving again? I work at a Marina that used to service sno-mobiles so I have the tools to get it done. Could you maybe send me an assembly diagram of where to look and what to do next? Thanks
ANSWER : For an assembly diagram, contact Yamaha directly.
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Machine will stop adjusting resistance. On start up the machine will usually work. I can go through the calibration procedure and it will calibrate and work normally for 4 or 5 resistance adjustments. It will then stop adjusting. It acts like there is a cable pulled and refuses to adjust, even though I am not getting the warning telling me to “Release cable”
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
I have modified the wiring harness so that the wires do not fall off from the stepper motor, so this is not the problem. If I shut the machine down and leave it for several minutes, it will come back and work normal again… for a while. I am wondering if there is a problem with the sensors that are detecting a cable pull? Is there a way to disable those sensors to see if that is the problem
ANSWER : I would think that your problem has possibly to do with a faulty power supply, component, see to my mind it is a thermal problem as it heats up,it goes faulty? The Voltage changes and it goes out of spec.. When left to cool, it then is OK… Usually, & from my experience this is a thermal problem. To see obtain some Freeze Spray, from radio Shack or similar,and spray components on the main power board, and others too, use it on any large heat sinked components and see if when you do this the fault clears. Then replace that component(s).
Or as you suggest the sensors that feed the inputs maybe with sensors though one has little option but to replace them and see if this clears the problem.
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Need the wire diagram to rewire my Ariens lawnmover to bypass the safety switch. It is Ariens GT-19 model # 931026 Serial # 001463.
Can you help? It is an old Ariens mower but still runs good but now I need to bypass the safety switch in order to run it any longer. The local Ariens dealer said I need to go through the internet and get the wire diagram as they cannot give it to me directly. They told me I needed the wire diagram and the part involved in bypassing the safety switch. Hope this is all the information you need to help me.
Can you help? It is an old Ariens mower but still runs good but now I need to bypass the safety switch in order to run it any longer. The local Ariens dealer said I need to go through the internet and get the wire diagram as they cannot give it to me directly. They told me I needed the wire diagram and the part involved in bypassing the safety switch. Hope this is all the information you need to help me.
Thank you. Roger Fielitz
ANSWER : Here is owner manual:http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/030305C.pdfusually the switch is behind the ignition, sometimes at the N position of gearshift, just look for a switch with one wire coming in & one going out (usually the same color); disconnect the two wires & jumper them together to bypass the switch. Looks like yours has one under the seat.
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