[SOLVED] I Have A 1996 Johnson Outboard That Will Not Start,ive Put New Pistons Abd Rings In It,new Power Pack,coil,rectafr,stator,rebuilt Carb,fiel Pum...

p and cylanoid and still wont start.
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Some other things that you need to do are check the fuel to be sure that it is ok.
Check the timing
Check the compression and to do this I prefer a cylinder leak down test.

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If you have checked the battery switch and charged the batteries, but your boat engine still won`t start, check the battery cables. Make sure the connections that run between the engine and the battery are not loose or corroded. Reconnect or replace any battery cables that have become disconnected or damaged.

It may sound obvious, but the fuel level is easy to check, and it`s one of the most common explanations for a motor that won`t start. Additionally, double-check that the fuel shutoff valve is set to “on” – otherwise gas won`t reach the motor, no matter how full your tank is.

The main reason for your outboard engine not working will be the fuel system, often because fuel has been left in the engine over winter. The fuel goes through a chemical reaction producing ethanol, which will prevent the engine from running. There may also be dirt blocking the filter, lines or carburettor.

Begin by pushing the choke to on and then turn the ignition switch. Next, bring the throttle to neutral then gradually to full and open. Pull the choke off, turn the ignition, and then crank the engine. Pull the throttle back to neutral and repeat the cycle until the engine is drained.

Key Signs to Look For

You won`t have any trouble diagnosing the faulty regulator rectifier if the battery is the cause. You`ll note signs right away like poor starts, fluctuating meter readings, and dimmed headlights. around 13 volts, the bike will start to drain the battery.

Worn piston rings or reed valves that are no longer sealing properly may be the cause of the poor startability characteristic. When the piston rings don`t seal properly, the engine doesn`t build good compression, so when kicked, the engine struggles to come to life.

2 stroke has fuel and spark but won`t start

You`ve confirmed that the gas is getting to the carb, and the spark plug is properly igniting, but your 2 stroke dirt bike won`t start. The most common causes are a dirty carb or low compression.

Some other typical reasons engines fail to start include:

Low or discharged battery. Corroded or loose battery cables. Starter motor relay failure. Ignition switch failure.

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.

If the battery doesn`t receive sufficient power, the charging output of your battery gets used up in operating the vehicle`s electrical systems. Ultimately, as all the charge drains out, your vehicle battery dies, and you`d no longer be able to start your vehicle.

No. A battery is not required to run the rope start models. However, if you have electrical accessories you want to operate and would like to take advantage of the charging system, the capability is already there.

Symptoms include: over reving, overheating, stalling on acceleration, failure to idle, and worst of all, an engine seizure if the problem is neglected. When an air leak occurs, it often puzzles users and even some saw shop technicians because the symptoms of an air leak are varied.

If there is no spark or fuel, then the first thing I would do is check the vehicle`s fuses and relays, particularly the EFI main and ignition relays. It may be possible that one of these components has failed and is cutting off power to the vehicle`s ignition and fuel systems.

If the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or otherwise fails while the engine is operating it will cut off power to the fuel pump and ignition system. This will cause the vehicle to immediately stall due to fuel and spark being cut off.

Yes. Spark plugs are needed to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber. If the spark plugs are old, contaminated, or fouled, they won`t be able to ignite this mixture properly. Your gas mileage will be lower than usual and if left unchecked, can cause the “no crank, no start” problem.

The most common reasons a Chevrolet Spark won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.

If the ignition coil does not have spark, it`s time to check its wires. Use a test light to check the continuity on the signal wire and power wire on the ignition coil. If both wires are functional but the coil fails to produce spark, the ignition coil or the ignition control module is bad.

Hard start symptoms and starter failure may NOT be caused by the starter, but could actually be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these symptoms, the crankshaft sensor may be at fault.

The relationship between crank and cam timing events can also cause no spark, especially on Chrysler products. On these vehicles, the PCM won`t trigger the ignition coil if the cam and crank are out-of-sync.

A simple way to detect water in used motor oil is to put a drop of oil from the dipstick on a hot exhaust manifold. If it crackles (sounds like bacon frying) this is an indication of water contamination. Beware that there is some risk that the drop of oil may catch fire.

When trying to start a flooded engine, the end goal is to re-establish the fuel-air balance in your vehicle. To do so, simply open the hood of the car and let the excess of fuel evaporate. After waiting for some minutes, try starting your car again, keeping your foot away from the gas pedal.

Turn the bolt in a clockwise direction to free the engine. If you cannot get the engine to turn, apply penetrating oil to the walls of each cylinder through the spark plug wells. Give the oil a couple of hours to work its way past the piston rings and try again.

At various points of their existence, Johnson Outboards were some of the best marine engines in the world. Before their discontinuation, they were labeled a brand of lower-powered engines, usually of 25 horsepower or less, and made by Suzuki; but these models are still viewed as quality motors.

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I have a 1996 johnson outboard that will not start,ive put new pistons abd rings in it,new power pack,coil,rectafr,stator,rebuilt carb,fiel pump and cylanoid and still wont start.

ANSWER : Some other things that you need to do are check the fuel to be sure that it is ok.
Check the timing
Check the compression and to do this I prefer a cylinder leak down test.

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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2004 KAWASAKI KXF250

ANSWER : Try a new plug sometimes a plug will not fire under compression. also adj the valves

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.

ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !

ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.

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Spark plug wire boot grounding out on coil, 96 outback 2.5 automatic, just put new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and new coil on. ran great for two weeks, now spark is jumping out of boot at coil on one wire, put old coil back on and still does it in the same spot. replaced wires again, and still does it in the same spot. seems to do it only under a load. Is my new spark plug on that cylinder bad? Does the coil need some insulation under it? It is the coil that sits right on top of the motor. Any ideas? thanks.

ANSWER : Sparks are high voltage, and will always follow the path of least resistance. If you can visibly see a spark (whether in a lighted area, or in the dark), that means either that a plug wire (or coil wire) is open (non conductive), or your have a carbon track on the surface where the spark can be seen, but most likely you have BOTH problems!

If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of each wire involved, particularly spark plug wires … which means you must be able to connect to both ends of each wire at the same, and hopefully, FLEX those wires, to be sure they don’t have a break inside that is intermittent (comes and goes)!

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