e motor will turn over but it will not start. I can disconnect the conrol box from the motor, jump it direct from the battery, and it will start. What might be the problem? I even bought a new control box but still have the same problem.
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I would check for power coming off of the ignition switch. The ignition switch is what sends power to the control box to the coil. You can also check for power on your coil. But I would bet that it is your ignition switch.
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While it is possible to run an outboard motor without a lower unit, it`s not recommended due to safety concerns and potential damage to other parts of your boat. If you need to replace or repair your lower unit, make sure you consult with a qualified marine mechanic before attempting any repairs yourself.
Factories are using stainless bolts and nuts to mount outboards. These fasteners need to be carefully installed to prevent crevice corrosion. This outboard is mounted with stainless steel bolts and a double stainless nuts. The white residue on the bolts is from sealant.
The motor, like most inboards, is a marine adapted automobile engine mounted inside the boat. The engine is attached through the transom to a drive unit (sometimes referred to as an “outdrive”) that looks quite similar to the lower portion of an outboard motor.
Outboard engines are all-in-one marine engines which attach to the boat`s transom. Outboard motors can be two-stroke or four-stroke models. On an outboard engine boat, you steer by swiveling the engine, which moves the propeller.
WARNING: Running your outboard without completely filling the lower unit with oil to the proper level will cause severe damage to your outboard. See the comments at the end of this guide on how to check for the proper oil level in your lower unit.
2-stroke outboards can be transported on both sides, but it`s better to transport them lying on the tiller side. 4-stroke outboards should only be transported lying on the tiller side. For longer breaks in use and for wintering, outboards should be stored upright, for example using a transport stand for outboards.
Why Leave an Outboard Tilted Up. There are three main reasons for tilting your outboard up and out of the water: marine growth, galvanic corrosion and electrolysis.
A heavy strap should always be used to anchor the boat`s stern to the trailer. If a strap isn`t used, the boat will bounce against (or off) the trailer.
Trailering with the engine in a vertical position puts the least amount of strain on the motor and transom, but that`s not possible for many boat/trailer/engine combinations due to ground clearance issues.
Yamaha 90101-12065 Transom Bolt M12 X 130MM.
The typical basic electrical system associated with a marine engine includes a dedicated engine starting battery, a starter motor, a charger in the form of an alternator, a solenoid and some engine sensors and instruments.
Boats, like all vehicles, have a 12 Volt DC electrical system connected to batteries and the engine that recharges them. There are generally three batteries: one to start the engine for safety.
An outboard support bracket is designed to brace up the rear of a tilted outboard to minimize the engine-rocking movements caused by trailering and keep the remaining forces from damaging the engine`s transom assembly or the transom of the boat.
Transom mount motors mount to the back of the boat with a clamp-on bracket and feature hand/tiller control. They are ideal for smaller boats, dinghies and canoes. They are also great for general positioning and standard trolling.
The presence of oil and its distribution is absolutely crucial to an engines continued operation. Engines can work without oil, but the effect is so damaging they are only capable of running for less than 30 minutes until failing – and in most cases, it`s a lot quicker than that.
2-stroke outboards generally have an external oil tank with the oil and fuel mixture injected into the cylinder. The oil is consumed and the oil tank level must be maintained, replacing oil as it is used up.
Every boat owner is different and how far you decide to push your marine engine is in your hands. However, running your boat at Wide-Open Throttle is not bad for your engine and can even help clear out carbon build up.
How many hours do boat engines last? Well-maintained inboard engines, inboard outboard engines (unless diesel), and outboards have a serviceable, average life of about 1500 – 2000 hours. If you`re looking at a gas-fueled marine engine close to or exceeding 1000 hours, inboard or outboard, proceed with caution.
Running an engine without the thermostat can cause the engine to overheat due to the coolant passes through the engine too fast and will not let the coolant absorb the heat from the engine.
No. The thermostat regulates the flow so that the coolant has time to get cooled in the radiator. Without the thermostat, the coolant just keeps flowing through unrestricted and fast, and the engine keeps getting hotter.
Raising an outboard higher on the transom can reduce drag and raise top speed.
Tests prove that Globe`s Run-Dry® impellers outperform standard neoprene or rubber impellers and are guaranteed to run-dry for up to 15 minutes.
In most cases, flotation foam provides enough time to radio for help and wait for a rescue, or to make it to shore before the boat goes under. In fact, if you have enough foam, it could prevent the boat from sinking entirely, saving your gear and your life.
Things You Should Know
Tie the front of the boat to the dock`s cleats or pilings first, then secure the back of the boat. Finally, tie a spring line from one end of the boat to the opposite end of the dock.
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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.
I have a problem with my machine, on occasion, not recognizing when I’m starting, and the display will not start. I have to remove one of the batteries or it will stay on forever. When it starts up, it works fine, no complaints whatsoever. But lately, I’ve not been able to use it due to the start-up problem. I put the batteries in, the display comes on, but it will not start up when I begin motion. The control buttons will not work, either. Please inform me what it is I can do to fix this problem. Thank You
Troubleshooting on this model is very limited to anyone but the vendor. I would recommend sharing the symptoms with a representative from fitnessquest here.
I have a 1997 motor guide wireless 24volt Big Water trolling motor. hooked it up to the batteries and put in a new 9volt battery in the foot pedal. the lights come on on top of the motor head and the foot pedal beeps, but the prop doesnt turn or spin (like there is no power to the bottom of the motor) any suggestions to what the problem is or how to fix it? (just bought the motor from a lady who’s husband died. dont have any manuals)
Hello there, as you said the power does not get to the bottom of the motor. The motor could be faulty or just completely bad. First you have to determine that the motor is good until you can determine this it is quite impossible to determine if there can be any fix. Take out the motor and try to power it on its own if it works fine then the problem is not from the motor but most likely the problem is from the motor. Let me know what your findings are. Hoping to hear from you soon.
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Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again
Check to see if you have a spark -then check if you are still getting fuel-and how old is the fuel-because it is recommended ,an im assuming its a 2 stroke motor,that the fuel should be replace with a fresh 2 stroke mixture every couple of months as the mixture jellyfies and sludges up the carb etc-try those first
Spark plug wire boot grounding out on coil, 96 outback 2.5 automatic, just put new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and new coil on. ran great for two weeks, now spark is jumping out of boot at coil on one wire, put old coil back on and still does it in the same spot. replaced wires again, and still does it in the same spot. seems to do it only under a load. Is my new spark plug on that cylinder bad? Does the coil need some insulation under it? It is the coil that sits right on top of the motor. Any ideas? thanks.
Sparks are high voltage, and will always follow the path of least resistance. If you can visibly see a spark (whether in a lighted area, or in the dark), that means either that a plug wire (or coil wire) is open (non conductive), or your have a carbon track on the surface where the spark can be seen, but most likely you have BOTH problems!
If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of each wire involved, particularly spark plug wires … which means you must be able to connect to both ends of each wire at the same, and hopefully, FLEX those wires, to be sure they don’t have a break inside that is intermittent (comes and goes)!